I've used EveryTrail and was satisfied but am looking for something better... What are the features I should focus on for selecting an app? What bells and whistles are really useful on the trail?
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In my opinion, the single best feature would be low battery consumption. You only really need a gps and map, so having a low consumption version of these would win for me, possibly with local maps rather than trying to download each section.
As Rory says, low power consumption is vital, but that's likely not determined by the software, but rather by the hardware and - more importantly - how you use it.
The three key things for me in Smartphone GPS map systems are these.
(This may just a long-winded way of saying 'Anything except google maps!')
But really, it depends on how you plan to use it. I travel with map, compass and brain as my primary nav. tools, and keep phone as a backup. On longer hikes it's usually switched off in an Aloksak bag, but on day hikes I may keep it running and recording my track.
FWIW, I use ViewRanger on a Motorola Defy, and I'm very pleased with both. Viewranger on iPad3 looks stunning, but you wouldn't normally want to take one with you on a hike...
Battery consumption is determined by the software, too. Some stuff polls for new data, some takes GPS readings more often then others, etc.
Honestly, I do not consider using a smartphone app for hiking or getting out into the backcountry. For too many of them you need network connectivity, battery life is a real issue (compared to dedicated GPS devices), and they're fragile. I do carry a GPS but I keep it switched off unless I need it (or to mark significant spots, after which it's turned off again). Sometimes I carry a Spot, depending on what I'm doing and where I'm going.