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5
votes
2answers
90 views

Color vision deficiency a dead end for mountaineering career, as an athlete?

Is having color vision deficiency a problem for mountaineering ? Can one so, pursue mountaineering as a career ? Do professional mountaineering schools and expeditions accept climbers with color ...
8
votes
1answer
85 views

Improving sport climbing skills

I recently made a sport climbing course mainly to give it a try and also to learn something about belaying in general. It's fun, challenging and I got hooked quite a bit. Overall I was around 10 times ...
5
votes
1answer
35 views

Why is the category called “Open” in climbing competitions?

In climbing competitions there are usually the familiar competitor categories of beginner, intermediate, and advanced. Sometimes there are categories for youth or older climbers too. At bigger ...
7
votes
2answers
267 views

What to do at the top of a sport climb

I dabble a little at leading trad, but have never led a sport route. If I do a sport lead, I want to make sure I don't make some stupid mistake when I get to the top. For example, I don't want to ...
7
votes
1answer
167 views

Who places the bolts on rock climbing routes, and how?

On big serious routes (Dreamcatcher, Jumbo Love, etc) who puts the bolts in place? And how? Are they there before the "first ascent"? Or is the first ascender the guy who puts them in place as he ...
8
votes
2answers
334 views

Climbing with a much lighter partner?

Both my fiancee and myself bought some climbing gear recently and we're planning our first trip to an indoor rock gym this weekend. We decided to practice our knots and belay technique before we went ...
9
votes
2answers
88 views

Reference request: books on self-rescue while climbing

Can people recommend books or online resources on self-rescue for roped climbing? As a beginning trad leader, I think I should have a basic understanding of topics like how to escape a belay and how ...
1
vote
1answer
87 views

FiveFingers Spyridon for Climbing? [closed]

So I am moving to Colorado in a little more than three weeks and super-pumped to elevate my experiences with the endless outdoor adventures! At this point in my life, I have six pair of shoes; three ...
6
votes
1answer
190 views

Can a Finger Pulley injury be predicted / anticipated?

I resumed climbing a couple of months back after a gap of a couple of years. After spending a month of quality time at the wall regularly in order to get back in touch, I have started to try different ...
3
votes
1answer
48 views

Is it possible to check the safety of a used climbing rope? [duplicate]

In the comments to my answer on Can you use a rope that has been in storage for a few years? the question arose if one could have some expert check a used rope whether it is still safe to use. As ...
7
votes
1answer
87 views

Can you use a rope that has been in storage for a few years?

A guy I'm talking to about buying some rock climbing gear is getting rid of his stuff cause he hasn't used it in five to eight years. He said it wasn't used a lot, maybe 5 to 6 times, and he said no ...
5
votes
1answer
58 views

Are there Latex Free climbing tapes

My daughter does crack climbing and wanted me to see if I could find some latex free tape. Her hands are sensitive to the latex. Are there any latex free climbing tapes?
11
votes
3answers
266 views

Is it realistic to teach yourself rock climbing?

I've been wanting to get into rock climbing for a while but I live in a very flat area with no climbing gyms around. I'm planning on moving to the Pacific Northwest soon and I wanted to know what the ...
10
votes
1answer
87 views

Climbing volcanic mountains

I'm planning to climb a few volcanic mountains in Indonesia the coming year. Mostly Mt Kerinci and a few adjoining ones (I'm still making a list of those near by to Kerinci). I believe that most ...
4
votes
2answers
124 views

Rock Climbing - Beginner's Guide for Quick Improvement? [closed]

I've recently become quite interested in climbing, and I have been frequenting a local gym. As I become more serious, I'm curious how to most quickly improve. For example, Should I focus on ...
1
vote
3answers
173 views

What is the strength of an ATC belay device when used in a multi-pitch climb setup?

Does anyone know the strength of an ATC when used in a multi-pitch set up? It occurred to me that the entire weight of a climber is resting on the strength of the ATC clip and not on any carabiner. I ...
6
votes
1answer
127 views

Cramping Fingers

I recently re-started to get into rock climbing but I've been having a lot of tough time with my fingers cramping up after I get off the wall. And the worst part of it is, I have to paddle down a good ...
7
votes
2answers
113 views

Keeping the things interesting in a small climbing gym

I had been a regular climber half a decade back. And, then I got off the routine. Now I am trying to get back into climbing. For that, I go to a local climbing gym kind of thing managed by a friend ...
7
votes
1answer
236 views

How do climbers retrieve anchored rope?

The following is a scene I have always been perplexed about. I’ve seen it many times. A mountain climber has no one above him as he descends and is trailing rope behind him that he is using to ...
3
votes
1answer
101 views

How does cam strength change with the retraction angle?

Everyone knows an undercammed piece is bad. Does any data exist on how bad it gets? In other words, how does the strength of a cam placement change with the retraction angle?
7
votes
3answers
318 views

Please Explain Rock Climbing Grades

I have seen various grades for different climbs such as 5.14b, 8b+, 8b - 150m It seems there are different parts to the grade, e.g. the last one is it 8b for 150 metres? Do these grades only ...
7
votes
1answer
374 views

What's the difference between Sport Climbing and Traditional Climbing

What is the difference between Sport Climbing and Traditional (Trad) Climbing? Is it just that sport climbing uses bolts?
5
votes
2answers
459 views

Which is more durable: Hard shell or soft shell?

From my experience, I've only ever used hard shells simply because I've always thought they were made for more treacherous weather. However, I recently saw a video by Patagonia that claimed soft ...
6
votes
2answers
537 views

How dangerous is it to fall 3 meters when lead climbing?

Consider a vertical rock with clip-ins 3 meters apart, dynamic rope, no more than 15 meters ascent. I guest most probable and dangerous is to fall just as one is clipping in. This way the rope is ...
5
votes
2answers
152 views

Whats the best way to abseil off a ledge with the anchor at foot level?

Is there any method for making the initial stages of an abseil smoother when the anchor in use is at foot level and the ledge drops off abruptly. I have had a big swing before when trying to do this ...
4
votes
1answer
141 views

Why can't a Figure-of-8 descender be used for SRT?

I've been told that a Figure-of-8 descender cannot be used for SRT (single-rope technique) because the descender must be able to be removed from the rope, without being removed from the harness. Why ...
5
votes
1answer
74 views

Basics of Via Ferrata

I am going for a two week trip in two weeks. We are two people, with bicycles and backpacks. Small sections of the trip pass through rocky trail with steel ropes. The weather is summer, but the ...
1
vote
0answers
132 views

What's the mountain on North Face's ad? [closed]

I saw an ad today, there's a guy climbing on a super exposed totem that seems really narrow and gets wider as it gets higher. I saw the ad in North Point in San Francisco, but it might or might not be ...
6
votes
3answers
373 views

swapping lead when climbing in a group of three using a pair of half ropes

On a multi-pitch route when all climbers have reached the belay point, what is the best way/ what considerations need to be made, in order to swap lead. obviously the leader will need to be tied into ...
3
votes
1answer
158 views

what to do with the lap coiled rope if the belayer wishes to lead consecutive pitches

Imagine a multi-pitch climbing situation where a lead climber has just finished belaying the second from a hanging belay position. The rope is coiled over the anchor cord (or clove hitched sharp end). ...
10
votes
3answers
192 views

How tight should the line be kept for toproping?

I was climbing with someone recently and they complained that there was too much slack any time the line wasn't completely taut. By the same token when they were belaying me it was almost hard to ...
5
votes
2answers
745 views

What is the correct way to attach an autoblock to your harness for rappelling?

When rappelling and using an autoblock consisting of a french prusik knot it seems there may be some options on how and where to attach the autoblock to my harness. Is there a correct placement on ...
5
votes
5answers
1k views

When climbing should a carabiner ever be clipped to the tie-in loops, and should anything other than a carabiner ever attach to the belay loop?

I'm a beginning climber and am trying to resolve conflicting instruction related to tying into my harness. During a recent outing a friend (an experienced climber, but not an instructor) was showing ...
14
votes
5answers
818 views

What can I do with a retired rope and harness?

I've recently retired a rope (dynamic) and a harness. They're both in very good shape, but just over 8 years old. Common sense dictates I throw them away, but I wonder if there are other uses I can ...
7
votes
0answers
229 views

How to get rid of the smell from indoor climbing shoes? [duplicate]

When I go climbing indoors I typically wear my climbing shoes without socks because this gives me slightly better control over my feet while climbing which I particularly need in overhangs. The ...
3
votes
2answers
72 views

Do rescue services use avalanche transceivers in the UK?

If mountain rescue teams in the UK were searching for a walker or climbing caught in an avalanche, would they start with a transceiver search? given that transceivers are infrequently carried by ...
4
votes
5answers
1k views

What is scientific relation between body weight and backpack weight in mountain climbing?

I am eager to go mountain climbing but cannot carry heavy backpacks because of my light weight. I want to know if there is any scientific equation to help me know how much weight is safe for me to ...
6
votes
3answers
533 views

For what it's worth: climbing-tape

The other day I used some mysterious, ultra-sticky climbing-tape at my local gym, which got me thinking: How much should I be paying for my tape? Prices for climbing-specific tape seem to be somewhat ...
7
votes
1answer
170 views

Difference between a Fingerboard and a Hangboard

This is just a climbing terminology question: What is the difference between a Fingerboard and a Hangboard? Maybe there is no difference at all? Maybe it's subtle? I have been Googling around and ...
7
votes
3answers
214 views

How to avoid pendulum descent when belaying?

I recently started indoor rock climbing at a local spot. I got to the top and (after appropriate communication) my partner started to belay me down. I instantly starting swinging and spinning pretty ...
10
votes
1answer
2k views

Methods for taping hands, wrists, and fingers for climbing?

I've been climbing off and on since I was a teenager, but one thing I've never done much of is taping my hands. As I'm getting older I can see more value in it than before. What are some good ...
10
votes
1answer
2k views

How do I mount a hangboard in an apartment?

In the last few months I have come to the conclusion that I need to have a fingerboard at home if my climbing is to get to the next level. But the problem is that I live in an apartment. How can I ...
3
votes
0answers
45 views

finger grip improvement exercisers [duplicate]

Possible Duplicate: What hand and finger exercises help with climbing? I'm looking to get a product that will improve my finger grip- have been looking at powerballs & grip masters but ...
9
votes
2answers
690 views

How can I improve my footwork while rock-climbing?

When I'm rock climbing, I feel like I've got hand holds down as far as where to grab on and understand that the hands are mainly for balance. However, I can't seem to figure out my feet. There are ...
6
votes
2answers
95 views

Climbing Insurance [closed]

I think I should've donde this ages ago, but, well... better late than never. Could you recommend a good insurance that covers climbing? It could be a travel insurance or a medical insurance. I'm ...
9
votes
2answers
2k views

How do I tie a slackline with only carabiners and webbing?

Commercial slackline solutions seem bulky, heavy, overpriced, and a little too industrial for my liking. I have 6 carabiners and 50m of tubular webbing. What knots do you recommend for building, ...
9
votes
3answers
161 views

How do you know if smaller brands of climbing equipment are safe?

There is a local shop that sells small brand name gear for pretty good prices. I am looking at their harnesses and quickdraws and would like to know: 1) Whether the equipment is safe - say compared ...
2
votes
1answer
101 views

What's the best climbing website? [closed]

I've not found a "must read," general information (news, trends, photos, product reviews, etc.) rock climbing website. Climbing.com, for example, is riddled with missing images and dead links, which ...
7
votes
3answers
349 views

Are used climbing shoes safe?

We have several used gear shops locally, which also sell climbing shoes. I'm looking to start climbing and I am considering buying used shoes to save cost. Is it ever safe to buy used shoes, and if ...
7
votes
2answers
196 views

How big a fall is a “major” fall?

I answered a question about rope safety with some advice about retiring the rope after a "major" fall. Another user asked me what would constitute a major fall - and I have to admit that I can only ...