Questions relating to climbing can include any activity that require the use of your hands and feet to move vertically up an object, obstruction or terrain. This varies from tree's to boulders to cliff faces and everything in-between,

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1answer
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How to use an avalanche shovel as a snow anchor for a belay?

Avalanche shovels come equipped with holes in the blades for use as rescue sleds and making anchors. I've got plenty of my own ideas, but I'm looking for any documentation provided by manufacturers ...
13
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4answers
823 views

What is the difference between “dry rope”, “non-dry rope” and “dry core rope”?

I've just recently gotten into climbing and so far the ropes have always been provided for me. I'm starting to look at getting my own rope for outside climbing, and am confused by some of the ...
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0answers
39 views

What is the best rope material to use for climbing protection? [duplicate]

I've been doing some research on what type of cord to use for resligning some hexes, and I found something very surprising here. Basically, the paper seems to suggest that while the tensile strength ...
4
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2answers
63 views

Is dyneema rope without a sheath safe for climbing?

I recently was given some old Chouinard hexes my uncle used back in the 70s. They look great, and I see no reason why I can't re-sling them and use them as perfectly safe protection. I've found some ...
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9answers
8k views

How far would you need to fall for it to be fatal?

A little grim this but I was discussing free soloing with a non-climber in work and I said "Well once you get over a certain height you're not going to survive a fall anyway so anything over ...
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3answers
467 views

Climbing barefoot/in toe-shoes?

I recently went bouldering for the first time and liked it a lot. One thing I wondered about are the climbing shoes. The mostly form your feet to a very firm, compact package. So the following ...
8
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3answers
156 views

Is climbing an ambidextrous sport?

We know left-footed football players, we know right-handed and left-handed batmen and bowlers, we know left-handed or right-handed tennis players, and so on.. I know being a right handed guy I could ...
7
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1answer
169 views

Climbing gear: can the energy absorbers of a lanyard for via ferratas be used only once?

Is the energy absorber of a gear kit for via ferratas for just one use? I mean, one fall and it has to be replaced? In the product description, there is often mention of it being "tearable."
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2answers
93 views

What is the term for/manufacturer of belay devices with a clip that holds the ATC onto the carabiner?

I broke my friend's ATC, and am trying to find a replacement, but I don't quite know what to look for. It was a somewhat unique unit, at least among those I've seen; it was a standard "basket" ATC ...
8
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3answers
677 views

Delayed muscle ache after boulder session

The last weeks I observed couple times that I am getting stiffness/muscle ache in the upper arms after a boulder session. What's special about this is that it is very delayed. For example I went to ...
6
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3answers
243 views

Shoe sizes for bouldering

When I first started (indoor) bouldering, I wasn't quite sure if I was ready to commit to it, so I went and bought a pair of shoes in the sale that were relatively cheap (or at least cheaper than ...
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2answers
800 views

using anti-perspirant in extreme cold climate

Could the use of anti-perspirant give benefit in extreme cold climate where sweating can be a significant problem. I've read many articles regarding keeping warm when alpine climbing in the extreme ...
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1answer
335 views

If the Dawn Wall's been climbed before why is the current attempt so difficult?

There's a lot of talk in the media at the moment about Kevin Jorgeson and Tommy Caldwell Free ascent of the dawn wall of El Capitan. This wall's been climbed before but this is the first time it's ...
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2answers
108 views

What are the rules to grade sport climbing single pitch routes?

What do you think is the correct way to grade a single pitch route (about 10 to 30 meters)? I know climbing grade are affected by subjectivity. However is there a list of objective elements to take ...
4
votes
2answers
146 views

Chaining locking carabiners

Googling seems to show that the conventional wisdom is that it's not a good idea to chain carabiners together: Another thing to avoid is chaining carabiners together to lengthen a connection in ...
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2answers
377 views

Installing a hand line for scrambling?

I've been reading this book about mountain scrambling in Washington State, U.S., and at some points it mentions the idea of using a hand line on some more exposed routes to give something to hold on ...
8
votes
2answers
144 views

Belay with a broken arm

I follow Andy Kirkpatrick(Hull's second best climber) on instagram. He rencently posted this photo: with the comment: Teaching self rescue...(how to belay with a broken arm) It looks like a ...
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2answers
457 views

Arm compression sleeves for climbing

A lot of runners use calf and leg compression sleeves, as these are supposed to improve blood flow. It would seem a logical extension to use compression sleeves on your forearms during climbing, ...
8
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1answer
290 views

When should you start to train with Campus Boards, Hang Boards and Peg Boards?

From which bouldering and climbing grades do you start using Campus Boards, Hang Boards and Peg Boards for training?
11
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3answers
607 views

How to walk as a roped party on a glacier?

If you want to walk on a glacier you usually do this roped together as a team. How to walk as a roped party on a glacier? What I have to pay attention to when knotting the rope? Related ...
14
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7answers
1k views

How to overcome fear of falling in lead climbing

I used to really enjoy climbing (almost all indoors). I was bouldering around V2-3 and leading at 5+. The mismatch was all down to fear of falling - I would repeatedly bail or fall from routes that ...
8
votes
1answer
223 views

Statistics on types and survivability of anchor failures?

The most recent (2013) edition of Climbing Anchors, by Long and Gaines, makes some interesting statements in the preface about catastrophic failures of anchors. Long first says that: when belay ...
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6answers
2k views

What are the advantages of short climbers?

My girlfriend often complains that a route or boulder was created for tall climbers. In my experience that sometimes is true: I easily get a hold, she has to jump. However, Lynn Hill proved that a ...
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3answers
999 views

How to belay on top of a pitch

When doing a multi-pitch and you reach a belay station (the top of a pitch) you can choose between belaying the lead climber from the body (like you do e.g. indoors where you aren't doing ...
14
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2answers
1k views

Why are indoor climbing grades easier?

This is possibly a little of a generalisation but, why are indoor grades easier than outdoor grades? Having climbed at many many indoor walls (all over the uk) and done multiple outdoor climbs ...
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2answers
305 views

Leader injured during multipitch trad climb, what to do?

I've been working on improving my self-rescue skills, but the skills I've learned so far seem to pertain mostly to single-pitch climbing. For example, a lot of people emphasize knowing how to escape a ...
2
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2answers
218 views

How much should my toes hurt in 5.10 MoccAsym shoes?

5.10s are known to be more comfortable, softer shoes, but I've also heard they tire your feet out faster. Edging in particular is harder in these shoes because it's your toes' responsibility instead ...
6
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3answers
625 views

How to take care of climbing hands?

Being a climber one aim is to toughen up your hands (related: How to toughen up hands?). Building up callused skin is important but how do you keep it? Having dry hands especially from the climbing ...
7
votes
2answers
943 views

When to set up a Cordelette and an Equalette?

I was going through anchoring techniques and I came across this well-received question: Anchor without cordelette? How should one decide when to go for a Cordelette or an Equalette?
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0answers
34 views

How do to a safety knot when abseiling with 2 ropes? [duplicate]

If I'm abseiling with a double rope what's the common way to add a safety knot? Is it a prusik knot around the 2 ropes instead of 1 or something like 2 prusiks?
2
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1answer
234 views

Places to Find Rock Climbing Ball Holds [closed]

What are some places to purchase rock climbing ball holds like the ones on Atomik Climbing Holds and Three Ball Climbing? I'm looking to build something similar to cannonball alley on American Ninja ...
16
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3answers
2k views

What are common climbing techniques for strongly overhanging walls and roofs?

What are common climbing techniques for strongly overhanging walls and roofs? In order to avoid a strength oriented climbing style and focus on technique.
4
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1answer
182 views

What does the term “Redpoint” & “Pinkpoint” mean

In climbing what does the term Redpoint & Pinkpoint mean? Where does it come from?
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1answer
539 views

What does it mean to free a climbing route?

Sometimes I read articles about climbers having freed a route. For example: "Lynn Hill freed the Nose". What does this exactly mean in terms of how they climbed it? Specifically: Are they not ...
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4answers
2k views

How to safely mark a rope

I was reading this question and the first thing that popped into my head is what do you use to mark the middle of the rope? I was taught not to use any kind of marker on the rope (because there's no ...
2
votes
2answers
718 views

What are common rock-climbing footwork mistakes and how I can spot them?

(This question is related to How can I improve my footwork while rock-climbing?) What are common rock-climbing footwork mistakes and how can I spot them? More specifically: When I started climbing I ...
7
votes
1answer
379 views

How to find climbing shoes for toe and heel hooks?

How can I choose the right climbing shoes especially for toe and heel hooking? More specifically: I have been using very comfortable beginner shoes for the last two years. When I started to advance ...
4
votes
1answer
185 views

Do Half/Twin/Double Ropes get Middle Marked?

I marked my single rope so I can find the middle when rappelling and also to give my belayer a warning when I'm on a route of unknown length. I am going to purchase a set of half ropes soon for some ...
4
votes
1answer
176 views

How does a route setter grade a climb?

Rock climbing and bouldering tours are classified e.g. Sierra from 5.2 to 5.15c or Fontainbleau 2 to 8c+. As you advance in your climbing experience you achieve higher grades and learn new ...
10
votes
1answer
116 views

Dealing with large runouts during sport climbing

I was doing a sport climb recently where there was a pretty good distance between bolts, resulting in long rope runouts. Falling before the next bolt could easily cause a person to deck on a ledge. ...
4
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3answers
144 views

Applications of a slip knot in climbing?

I'm joining a rock climbing club that requires an evaluation test in order to become a member. (I think this is a great idea.) They have a detailed handout listing exactly what you need to know for ...
10
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2answers
324 views

Most Eco-Friendly way to Identify a Climbing Route

In Ontario where I live and do most of my climbing the routes are not clearly marked. Guide books also lack clear approaches and thus it just turns into a big guessing game of what route you're on ...
5
votes
1answer
126 views

Which notable/challenging mountains can be ascended with few technical skills? [duplicate]

By technical skills I am specifically referring to advanced ropework and rock climbing skills. I understand that Aconcagua is achievable with good fitness, equipment, self-awareness, medical skills ...
6
votes
2answers
395 views

What is a bloquers?

Simple question, which has been prompted from this answer. What is a bloquers? I'm guessing it's some kind of prussik and it's a French term. But I'm not familiar with it. A quick google search ...
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3answers
3k views

Technique for lead solo climbing with rope

In the past I saw climbers climb alone on multi-pitch routes only by themselves (but not free solo). What's a correct technique to do this? I know how to do it with two ropes, rope ascenders and on ...
8
votes
1answer
211 views

Rating unorthodox climbs

This question is sprouted from Brick Wall Rating I occasionally climb in places where it seems unorthodox, such as a brick wall. I've found that even with the plethora of hand holds that buildings ...
14
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5answers
1k views

Knot to turn cord into loop (load bearing)

What's the best knot for turning a piece of cord into a loop? The cord would then be used for a prusik so needs to be very secure and load bearing.
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8answers
2k views

What are creative uses for retired carabiners?

I seem to have accumulated a good number of carabiners that, while probably still safe, I won't climb on anymore. They might be worn, of questionable origin, or just plain made obsolete by an upgrade. ...
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0answers
104 views

Seeking photographs of “climber's hunch” [closed]

I couldn't find any pictures of this online. (There were some simulated hunches, but no pictures of people with bad posture.)
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2answers
227 views

How to use campus boards

I'm looking at improving (actually starting) my training regime. My local climbing Gym has just installed various campus boards. How do you use these to train effectively? What's the technique ...