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8
votes
2answers
3k views

How do I set a top rope anchor?

When rock-climbing, I need to set up a top-rope anchor so if I fall, it will minimize chance of injury. So, how would I safely set one up?
7
votes
1answer
343 views

How do climbers retrieve anchored rope?

The following is a scene I have always been perplexed about. I’ve seen it many times. A mountain climber has no one above him as he descends and is trailing rope behind him that he is using to ...
5
votes
5answers
2k views

When climbing should a carabiner ever be clipped to the tie-in loops, and should anything other than a carabiner ever attach to the belay loop?

I'm a beginning climber and am trying to resolve conflicting instruction related to tying into my harness. During a recent outing a friend (an experienced climber, but not an instructor) was showing ...
14
votes
5answers
1k views

What can I do with a retired rope and harness?

I've recently retired a rope (dynamic) and a harness. They're both in very good shape, but just over 8 years old. Common sense dictates I throw them away, but I wonder if there are other uses I can ...
3
votes
1answer
113 views

How does cam strength change with the retraction angle?

Everyone knows an undercammed piece is bad. Does any data exist on how bad it gets? In other words, how does the strength of a cam placement change with the retraction angle?
10
votes
2answers
3k views

How do I tie a slackline with only carabiners and webbing?

Commercial slackline solutions seem bulky, heavy, overpriced, and a little too industrial for my liking. I have 6 carabiners and 50m of tubular webbing. What knots do you recommend for building, ...
5
votes
2answers
516 views

Which is more durable: Hard shell or soft shell?

From my experience, I've only ever used hard shells simply because I've always thought they were made for more treacherous weather. However, I recently saw a video by Patagonia that claimed soft ...
7
votes
2answers
458 views

Training to prepare for oxygen deficiency in the high mountains

I would like to prepare myself for the climb in the high mountains (for now by "high mountains" I mean elevation 4000 m and more, but eventually eight-thousanders). What can I do to improve my ...
3
votes
1answer
192 views

what to do with the lap coiled rope if the belayer wishes to lead consecutive pitches

Imagine a multi-pitch climbing situation where a lead climber has just finished belaying the second from a hanging belay position. The rope is coiled over the anchor cord (or clove hitched sharp end). ...
5
votes
2answers
176 views

Whats the best way to abseil off a ledge with the anchor at foot level?

Is there any method for making the initial stages of an abseil smoother when the anchor in use is at foot level and the ledge drops off abruptly. I have had a big swing before when trying to do this ...
7
votes
3answers
237 views

How to avoid pendulum descent when belaying?

I recently started indoor rock climbing at a local spot. I got to the top and (after appropriate communication) my partner started to belay me down. I instantly starting swinging and spinning pretty ...
5
votes
1answer
76 views

Basics of Via Ferrata

I am going for a two week trip in two weeks. We are two people, with bicycles and backpacks. Small sections of the trip pass through rocky trail with steel ropes. The weather is summer, but the ...
6
votes
3answers
468 views

swapping lead when climbing in a group of three using a pair of half ropes

On a multi-pitch route when all climbers have reached the belay point, what is the best way/ what considerations need to be made, in order to swap lead. obviously the leader will need to be tied into ...
5
votes
2answers
950 views

What is the correct way to attach an autoblock to your harness for rappelling?

When rappelling and using an autoblock consisting of a french prusik knot it seems there may be some options on how and where to attach the autoblock to my harness. Is there a correct placement on ...
14
votes
2answers
5k views

What does it mean to cross load a carabiner?

What does it mean to cross load a carabiner? I know it's bad, and not to do it, but I don't really know what exactly it is.
10
votes
3answers
198 views

How tight should the line be kept for toproping?

I was climbing with someone recently and they complained that there was too much slack any time the line wasn't completely taut. By the same token when they were belaying me it was almost hard to ...
8
votes
3answers
726 views

Is there a consensus or ethic for rappelling off a tree?

When trad climbing I have seen many people wrap their rope around a tree and then rappel, and then yank the rope down at the next belay station or tree. I have also seen the scarring as a result of ...
6
votes
3answers
332 views

Will glucosamine and chondroitin sulphate prevent or repair damage to climbers’ fingers?

I've heard that I can take glucosamine and chondroitin sulphate supplements to prevent damage to my fingers when I'm climbing. Is it true, or is just an old wives' tale?
13
votes
2answers
1k views

Things to keep away from climbing ropes

There are some no brainers like don't throw your climbing rope next to car batteries in the back of your car. The effect of bug sprays containing Deet seem to be controversial. I have also heard a ...
16
votes
2answers
246 views

What everyday tasks can be adapted in a way that helps build muscles and technique for bouldering?

(This is related to "What hand and finger exercises help with climbing?" but asking for what can be done when not climbing/training.) Like most climbers, I don't get to do as much as I'd like, and I ...
3
votes
2answers
72 views

Do rescue services use avalanche transceivers in the UK?

If mountain rescue teams in the UK were searching for a walker or climbing caught in an avalanche, would they start with a transceiver search? given that transceivers are infrequently carried by ...
16
votes
3answers
289 views

How should I check climbing equipment to tell whether it is still safe to use?

I have, unfortunately, not had the opportunity to go climbing (and thus use my climbing equipment) for a couple years. I know that such equipment, especially the rope and webbing, can degrade over ...
6
votes
3answers
632 views

For what it's worth: climbing-tape

The other day I used some mysterious, ultra-sticky climbing-tape at my local gym, which got me thinking: How much should I be paying for my tape? Prices for climbing-specific tape seem to be somewhat ...
7
votes
1answer
178 views

Difference between a Fingerboard and a Hangboard

This is just a climbing terminology question: What is the difference between a Fingerboard and a Hangboard? Maybe there is no difference at all? Maybe it's subtle? I have been Googling around and ...
3
votes
0answers
45 views

finger grip improvement exercisers [duplicate]

Possible Duplicate: What hand and finger exercises help with climbing? I'm looking to get a product that will improve my finger grip- have been looking at powerballs & grip masters but ...
10
votes
2answers
835 views

How can I improve my footwork while rock-climbing?

When I'm rock climbing, I feel like I've got hand holds down as far as where to grab on and understand that the hands are mainly for balance. However, I can't seem to figure out my feet. There are ...
7
votes
2answers
108 views

Climbing Insurance [closed]

I think I should've donde this ages ago, but, well... better late than never. Could you recommend a good insurance that covers climbing? It could be a travel insurance or a medical insurance. I'm ...
10
votes
3answers
174 views

How do you know if smaller brands of climbing equipment are safe?

There is a local shop that sells small brand name gear for pretty good prices. I am looking at their harnesses and quickdraws and would like to know: 1) Whether the equipment is safe - say compared ...
17
votes
2answers
7k views

Climbing rope is rated to X UIAA falls. What is a UIAA fall?

When looking at buying climbing ropes, they are rated to a number of "UIAA falls". What does that mean?
3
votes
1answer
110 views

What's the best climbing website? [closed]

I've not found a "must read," general information (news, trends, photos, product reviews, etc.) rock climbing website. Climbing.com, for example, is riddled with missing images and dead links, which ...
8
votes
2answers
212 views

How big a fall is a “major” fall?

I answered a question about rope safety with some advice about retiring the rope after a "major" fall. Another user asked me what would constitute a major fall - and I have to admit that I can only ...
8
votes
3answers
389 views

Are used climbing shoes safe?

We have several used gear shops locally, which also sell climbing shoes. I'm looking to start climbing and I am considering buying used shoes to save cost. Is it ever safe to buy used shoes, and if ...
27
votes
9answers
7k views

What hand and finger exercises help with climbing?

It's been a while since I went rock climbing but I'd like to get back into it. What are some hand exercises that will help with climbing?
6
votes
2answers
100 views

Cam Sling Modification

How do you modify Cam slings with a straw as described here for easier removal?
7
votes
1answer
133 views

Looking for a boot recommendation

I'm planing on taking the Yamnuska Snow and Ice Long Weekend class in September. The final day includes a summit attempt on Mt. Athabasca (3491m). I'm looking to buy my first pair of mountaineering ...
7
votes
2answers
679 views

What is a good starter kit for beginning indoor climbing?

If I want to get started on indoor climbing, what is the bare minimum I need to have, assuming I don't want to rent equipment?
4
votes
1answer
152 views

Are there any year round beaches with nearby bouldering?

I want it all in one. I recently went to Florida and fell in love with West Palm Beach, but I could never live there due to the lack of climbing. Are there any locations which combine year round ...
3
votes
2answers
336 views

How do I tie a double fisherman's knot?

In climbing, a double fisherman's knot is used to tie together two separate pieces of rope. How would I tie such a knot?
4
votes
2answers
228 views

How do I tie a stopper knot?

A stopper knot is often used to prevent rope from unexpectedly going throu some hole, such as a belay device. How would I tie a stopper knot?
7
votes
2answers
573 views

What are the advantages / disadvantages of a rock climbing hat made from hard plastic to one made out of carbon fiber?

What are the advantages / disadvantages of a rock climbing hat made from hard plastic to one made out of carbon fibre? I have done a Google search already, but wanted some pointers with people who ...