Getting to the peak of a mountain including both hiking and technical climbing means.

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What are the real dangers of climbing at high altitude?

I had a campfire discussion not long ago with a man that got pulmonary edema while attempting the summit of Aconcagua, and we got into the discussion of the effects of high elevation. I had always ...
7
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2answers
59 views

How can you safely set up a climbing anchor from above?

Let's say I'm walking to the top of a really nice cliff. Take a look at this beauty: And there are some nice cracks to place some protection in, with the slings/rope coming off the cliff, kinda ...
2
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1answer
38 views

Properly using a Gamow Bag

I was just informed that our group is going to have a Gam-off, technically known as a Gamow Bag. While I have never seen one such thing and so I don't have any experience with them, I browsed the ...
8
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6answers
488 views

Climbing Mount Teide from sea-level

Is it possible to climb Mount Teide from sea-level in 2 days for a reasonably fit person? Essentially, I was thinking of walking up to the Altavista mountain refuge on the first day (can that be done ...
8
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6answers
248 views

Most efficient training before alpine hiking/climbing?

I am planning a trip to the Alps, where I'll do some mountaineering, mostly on rocks (little or no ice) at altitudes around 4000 m. I expect to do mostly scrambling, with only a few places per day ...
11
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2answers
176 views

Is there any difference between a harness used for rock climbing vs for mountaineering?

I've recently taken an interest in both rock climbing and mountaineering. Both require a harness, but is there any difference in the harness used for each activity? I understand that the most basic ...
5
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1answer
70 views

First ascents by Edward Whymper

Edward Whymper is most known for his sweeping ascent of the Matterhorn 150 years ago. You can read about the competition with J.A. Carrel and the struggle to find a path to the top in the famous book ...
5
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4answers
262 views

How to top belay 2 climbers at the same time on multi-pitch climb?

Senario: I am leading the climb with 2 ropes. I reach at the first pitch. I put myself on the self anchor and built a master point. Now I want to top belay 2 climbers at the same time. They both will ...
7
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1answer
95 views

Donating blood at higher altitudes and Acclimatization

While I was re-reading this question where there is a lot discussed about impact of higher altitude on the physiology, acclimatization and things around it. Though, I have had put in an answer in the ...
13
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1answer
494 views

Does drinking tea cause problems at altitude?

I've heard from a tour leader that you shouldn't drink tea in high altitude because it makes you thirsty and cause problem in blood circulation. Is this true? Should'nt we drink tea in high altitude?
4
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1answer
134 views

Is there a dose guide for Dexamethasone?

I am looking at the things that I should have with me when I am climbing higher altitudes. I came across this meds one should always have along: Dexamethasone. Dexamethasone is used in the ...
2
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2answers
92 views

Site with statistics of mountaineering accidents

I was wondering if there was a website where I could find the different kinds of statistics of accidents in the mountains. I know that Dragon 06 (rescue service of Alpes-Maritimes) posted some numbers ...
9
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2answers
136 views

Acclimatization strategies

While reading Hermann Buhl's tour book* of the Nanga Parbat expedition in 1953 (yielding to the first ascent on third of July, Buhl did the final ascent solo) I got curious about the height difference ...
5
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2answers
343 views

Installing a hand line for scrambling?

I've been reading this book about mountain scrambling in Washington State, U.S., and at some points it mentions the idea of using a hand line on some more exposed routes to give something to hold on ...
22
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2answers
1k views

What makes certain mountains more dangerous than others?

Why do mountains like K2, Nanga Parbat and Annapurna (36 successful attempts, 47 failed) have higher fatality rates than, say, Everest or Cho Oyu (79 successful attempts, 28 failed)? (source) Can I ...
8
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3answers
1k views

During high-altitude lengthy expedition: To shave or not shave? [duplicate]

"Should one be shaving on a lengthy high altitude trek?" shall be the question that I'd like to ask to great mountaineers with wisdom in high-altitude mountaineering. If you have observed, there are ...
8
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4answers
2k views

Knee pain when descending a mountain

It's been said by a specialist doctor that any form of mountain descent would affect your knee caps. Do old mountaineers have knee problems? Is it related to the way you descend?
11
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3answers
543 views

How to walk as a roped party on a glacier?

If you want to walk on a glacier you usually do this roped together as a team. How to walk as a roped party on a glacier? What I have to pay attention to when knotting the rope? Related ...
11
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2answers
3k views

Is it safe to sleep for more than 16 hrs a day at altitudes above 6000m?

I am planning for a trek at the Advance Base Camp or if possible up to Camp II of Saser Kangri. The region is so deserted of people and expeditionists/mountaineers that there are usually only two to ...
8
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1answer
1k views

Best type of rope for glacier travel?

What sort of rope would be ideal for glacier travel? I have a 10mm 60m rope, but this is quite heavy. Would a 9mm 50m rope be suitable for a team of three, crossing glaciers in the Swiss Alps?
12
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1answer
1k views

Mountaineering / glacial traverse: rope-up or go it alone?

When crossing a glacier (or other mountaineering activity for that matter) I've heard that roping everyone together without having a fixed anchor is falling out of fashion since more often than not if ...
8
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3answers
196 views

How to detect a crevasse on a glacier

When you're walking in a roped party over a glacier, how can the leader detect crevasses? Sometimes it's possible to walk existing tracks, but even then it's possible to have a crevasse fall. What ...
8
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1answer
189 views

Using a rope “Alpine Style”/Moving together

I've seen people using a ropes "alpine style" in the past but I'm not sure on the specifics. By alpine style I mean where the rope is coiled around the body and attached to a second of third person. ...
6
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1answer
66 views

Recommended Aconcagua Guide Source?

Anyone know a good method of finding Aconcagua guides that will work with a pair solo outside of an organised group? Most guides I've seen online so far take groups & use a lot of porters. We're ...
6
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1answer
112 views

Fine tuning the Warm-up routines at Higher altitude

Warm-up routines are very important for most of the activities that involve rapid and/or vigorous body movements. Trekking too is not an exception to that. I am planning for a trek which goes through ...
12
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2answers
314 views

How do you make a snow shelter?

Sometimes when mountaineering, there may be an emergency situation which leaves you in bad weather with no or damaged shelter (such as returning from a summit attempt or after a wild and crazy storm). ...
10
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3answers
917 views

Maintaining a Mountain Hut

I loved and appreciate the concept of Mountain Huts. Though I have never visited one, this really sounds appealing. In my country, India, we don't have Mountain Huts, so we have to manage it all on ...
5
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2answers
653 views

How many “Munro” revisions has there been?

In 1891 Hugh Munro published his list of mountains in Scotland over 3000 feet, since then the list has been revised a number of times and the current total stands at 282. How many revisions have been ...
7
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4answers
1k views

Anchor without cordelette?

I have the John Long book on climbing anchors and also a couple of others that describe the subject more briefly (Pesterfield, Traditional Lead Climbing, and Freedom of the Hills). When it comes to ...
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2answers
515 views

Things to consider when buying sunglasses

I am going to buy sunglasses. Here is how and where I am going to use them: mountain trekking - with altitude mostly below 2000, however I will use them in the following months on higher mountains ...
5
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1answer
794 views

Carrying crampons safely when not using them

How should one carry the crampons when not actually using it, but knowing that they are going to be needed in the further stage of the expedition. To clarify a bit, I'd say, suppose I am gonna need ...
4
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2answers
201 views

What to look for in an ice axe for use in classic alpine terrain?

I'm currently in the process of getting together a winter walking kit. I've got B2 boots and I'm buying suitable crampons. Ice Axes though seems more...confusing. What kind of features should I be ...
10
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1answer
545 views

Managing the garbage over a lengthy trek at higher altitudes

Following the thread about Everest Base Camp related questions, its almost a globally known fact that the Everest Base Camp is very much crowded and consequently very much into garbage disposal ...
10
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1answer
268 views

How to cross a 25 feet wide Crevasse?

How to cross a Crevasse when its absolutely unavoidable? What gear/equipment is/are required? What are the things that one should look for when choosing where to cross? Is it the hard ice from where ...
3
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1answer
79 views

What to look for in an insole?

I was recently browsing around a well known outdoor shop when I noticed a confusing array of insole products. They seemed to be a very confusing array of entirely different looking insoles all ...
3
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2answers
323 views

Do alpine boots hurt when walking (not climbing)?

This question reffers to "single" alpine climbing boots used for mountaineering with a stiff 3/4 to full shank, not heavy duty backpacking boots or "double" (plastic) boots. I have owned two pairs of ...
18
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4answers
524 views

Is there a definitive list of the tallest mountains in the world that require little or no mountaineering experience?

I was wondering if there is a list of the tallest mountains in the world where you can walk or scramble up to the summit? As opposed to using even basic rope skills?
9
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How do climbers retrieve anchored rope?

The following is a scene I have always been perplexed about. I’ve seen it many times. A mountain climber has no one above him as he descends and is trailing rope behind him that he is using to ...
5
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1answer
124 views

Which notable/challenging mountains can be ascended with few technical skills? [duplicate]

By technical skills I am specifically referring to advanced ropework and rock climbing skills. I understand that Aconcagua is achievable with good fitness, equipment, self-awareness, medical skills ...
7
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4answers
444 views

Altitude sickness when going from sea level to 14,000 ft (4,200m) in a single day

My sister lives at sea level -- Baltimore and Chicago. She is coming to visit me in Denver (5280 ft or 1600m). She wishes to climb Mt Bierstadt (14,065 ft or 4200m) the same day she arrives. I have ...
5
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1answer
167 views

Taking Aspirin in higher altitudes

Reading this answer and especially the comments leads me to questions: Should one use Aspirin in high altitudes? Should one use it as a precaution or only when actually getting headache or other ...
13
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6answers
342 views

Light-weight emergency overnight-gear

What is a good emergency-overnight-sleeping-setup when every ounce counts, like on long technical routes (grade V or VI) where the goal is to do it in one day (without hauling), but one wants to ...
10
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2answers
151 views

What should a rescue team be equipped with?

The last weekend when I was coming back home from a trek on Sunday noon, I got a news about this accident that took place. The place was on the way, so instead of choosing to rest at home, I chose to ...
4
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1answer
62 views

fatigue on high altitudes

Time and again I read how climbers feel incredible fatigue on altitudes 7000+ m. Most of us have probably flown in airplanes on altitudes greater than that in pressurized passenger airplanes and ...
3
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2answers
84 views

What is a tour book used for?

I recently started to write a little tour book. The main reason for this was, I was told some guides want to see this as requirement to take you along. Is this true? If so, for which ...
6
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3answers
242 views

Compare running fitness to hiking

I'm currently in the US for an internship and the idea of climbing Mt. Whitney appeals to me. I know you need a permit, but there is a good chance on getting one spontaneously. I know about proper ...
6
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1answer
291 views

Climbing Mt Kazbek in Georgia

Could you please help me decide whether a "team" of two people needs a guide on their attempt to climb Mount Kazbek from the Georgian side? My doubts come from a passage from this site (in Polish), ...
8
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2answers
163 views

Cutting snow steps on slopes

In many of the mountaineering expedition books that I've read, there are references to cutting of snow steps on slopes. What is the advantage of cutting snow steps? Why not use crampons and do a ...
7
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3answers
332 views

Depth Perception in the Mountains

I'm not from the mountains. Every time I go into the mountains I lose all depth perception. I can't tell by looking if a peak is 100 meters or a 1,000 meters above me. I have to stare hard and look ...
12
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5answers
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What are the key differences between Mountaineering and Rock Climbing?

I think the title speaks for itself. I have done a basic google search and I do not find the references to be sufficient. I'm looking for a short synopsis that would educate a layman such as myself. ...