This tag should be used for all questions about the activity **rock climbing**, books, gear and accessories used or necessary to do rock climbing. The term Rock Climbing is an activity in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls.

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16
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6answers
5k views

Why do many climbers appear to not trust their belay loops?

The belay loop is the strongest part of the climbing harness, so why do so many climbers not trust it? It’s very common to see climbers backing up their belay loop with a separate piece of webbing or ...
8
votes
2answers
443 views

How can you safely set up a climbing anchor from above?

Let's say I'm walking to the top of a really nice cliff. Take a look at this beauty: And there are some nice cracks to place some protection in, with the slings/rope coming off the cliff, kinda ...
14
votes
1answer
494 views

Why do big wall harnesses have two belay loops?

I've been looking at big wall harnesses and I've been noticing that a lot of them come with two belay loops: I know that it isn't there as a back up. What's the advantage of having two belay ...
9
votes
2answers
570 views

“Used” top rope when bouldering

My friend and I often boulder around my home instead of driving to the local area, and when attempting some more challenging features, such as overhangs and slightly taller cliffs, we would feel ...
9
votes
1answer
216 views

Big Wall Rock Climbing - Harness Off

Do climbers ever remove their harness when they are sleeping on the side of cliffs or for going to the bathroom? I imagine I would want to keep my harness on and be roped into the anchor even if the ...
17
votes
1answer
738 views

If the Dawn Wall's been climbed before why is the current attempt so difficult?

There's a lot of talk in the media at the moment about Kevin Jorgeson and Tommy Caldwell Free ascent of the dawn wall of El Capitan. This wall's been climbed before but this is the first time it's ...
10
votes
1answer
3k views

Bouldering vs aid climbing vs free climbing vs free solo climbing

What re the differences between these 4 styles of rock climbing? Bouldering Aid Climbing Free Climbing Free solo climbing
12
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2answers
1k views

Is there any difference between a harness used for rock climbing vs for mountaineering?

I've recently taken an interest in both rock climbing and mountaineering. Both require a harness, but is there any difference in the harness used for each activity? I understand that the most basic ...
2
votes
2answers
98 views

Guidelines for safe use of ATC Nano? [closed]

The photo below shows my new ATC Nano. Sweet! This is an innovative new belay device that is definitely going to be in my ultralight mountaineering setup from now on. After all, when you're bagging ...
4
votes
2answers
1k views

Lowering a climber from above using a belay device in autolocking mode

I recently gave a belay from above to a group of five people who were all doing the same single-pitch climb and then being lowered off. (In this case the reason for belaying from above was that the ...
9
votes
1answer
354 views

Statistics on types and survivability of anchor failures?

The most recent (2013) edition of Climbing Anchors, by Long and Gaines, makes some interesting statements in the preface about catastrophic failures of anchors. Long first says that: when belay ...
6
votes
2answers
177 views

What is the term for/manufacturer of belay devices with a clip that holds the ATC onto the carabiner?

I broke my friend's ATC, and am trying to find a replacement, but I don't quite know what to look for. It was a somewhat unique unit, at least among those I've seen; it was a standard "basket" ATC ...
7
votes
4answers
995 views

How to top belay 2 climbers at the same time on multi-pitch climb?

Senario: I am leading the climb with 2 ropes. I reach at the first pitch. I put myself on the self anchor and built a master point. Now I want to top belay 2 climbers at the same time. They both will ...
10
votes
1answer
3k views

“Tag line”/“pull cord” for multipitch trad: what kind and when needed?

I normally climb with a single 10 mm x 60 m rope. On some multipitch trad climbs, I don't expect to have to rappel off, but I might have to in an emergency. Many people carry a special-purpose 6 mm ...
10
votes
4answers
1k views

Rock Climbing falling.Turning upside down

What are the chances of falling and turning upside down, with your head down. Is the gear special from preventing such falls?
8
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1answer
123 views

Relative abraision resistance of Dyneema slings vs an average dynamic climbing rope

I recently read this answer about rope thickness, and it mentions a tragic incident where a rope was severed during a lead fall due to the rope being dragged across rock edge whilst under tension. ...
7
votes
1answer
491 views

water knot vs figure 8 follow through vs X for rock climbing anchor - What is easiest to untie?

I've recently been using figure 8 follow through on anchor webbing, and although it takes more time to dress properly and setup than a water knot, it's easier to untie at the end of the day and I feel ...
2
votes
2answers
167 views

What are the rules to grade sport climbing single pitch routes?

What do you think is the correct way to grade a single pitch route (about 10 to 30 meters)? I know climbing grade are affected by subjectivity. However is there a list of objective elements to take ...
11
votes
1answer
380 views

Why are unequalised anchors acceptable for fixed-point belay systems used while ice climbing?

The Association of Canadian Mountain Guides demonstrate Fixed-Point belay systems in this video. Fixed-point belay systems as demonstrated make no effort to equalise the loading on the two anchors, ...
7
votes
3answers
1k views

How to take care of climbing hands?

Being a climber one aim is to toughen up your hands (related: How to toughen up hands?). Building up callused skin is important but how do you keep it? Having dry hands especially from the climbing ...
9
votes
2answers
250 views

Belay with a broken arm

I follow Andy Kirkpatrick(Hull's second best climber) on instagram. He rencently posted this photo: with the comment: Teaching self rescue...(how to belay with a broken arm) It looks like a ...
7
votes
1answer
717 views

Which is better, a single fisherman's knot or a double?

I ask this question based on the fact that tensile strength tests show that putting a double fisherman's knot in kernmantle rope makes it more likely for the rope to snap than a rope tied with a ...
6
votes
3answers
810 views

How to use legs more effectively to avoid grip stress on overhangs

Overhangs are a weak point in rock climbing for me currently. I think I know the theory: the goal is to use the legs to push yourself up, keep straight arms as much as possible and avoid pulling, and ...
13
votes
2answers
695 views

Toproping with two ropes joined by a double fisherman's

The other day we were waiting in line for a popular 200 foot single pitch climb in the valley and the party in front of us was using two 70 meter ropes they had joined together with a double fisherman'...
10
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2answers
2k views

Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?

What is recommended after finishing a sport climb--lowering off from the anchors or rappelling ? Rappelling preserves the hardware better, but is usually thought to be more dangerous since you take ...
7
votes
3answers
2k views

Should I be using Dyneema slings for lead climbing anchors?

I've seen a few of these comparisons around but I've always struggled to make sense of them. At the moment I do quite a lot of Alpine style routes (lowish grade (HS), long multi pitch routes, ...
15
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5answers
2k views

Learning to fall when leading: what is good fall technique?

I'm learning to lead climbs, and I'm terrified of big falls. Part of this is learning to trust my gear placements, but a large portion is because I don't know how to fall - I've only taken small falls ...
11
votes
2answers
1k views

What this instrument is used for?

Just like everyday, I was at the climbing wall this morning, when I reached, there was a group (I have not seen anyone of them there, ever, it being a local place, I know almost everyone who comes ...
21
votes
7answers
2k views

What equipment do I need as a beginner outdoor rock climber?

What are the bare essentials that I need in terms of equipment when it comes to rock climbing? I've done indoor rock climbing but always rented my equipment from the rock-climbing gym. (For the ...
17
votes
3answers
2k views

Please Explain Rock Climbing Grades

I have seen various grades for different climbs such as 5.14b, 8b+, 8b - 150m It seems there are different parts to the grade, e.g. the last one is it 8b for 150 metres? Do these grades only ...
21
votes
4answers
3k views

How should a climbing rope be stored?

I've purchased my first climbing rope and am wondering how it should be stored when not in use. I have a rope bag which I assume is a good home for the rope; should it be kept tightly coiled inside ...
9
votes
1answer
793 views

When should you start to train with Campus Boards, Hang Boards and Peg Boards?

From which bouldering and climbing grades do you start using Campus Boards, Hang Boards and Peg Boards for training?
7
votes
1answer
210 views

How to achieve a climbing anchor that can withstand an upward load?

Commonly when setting SARENE-SA trad anchors on multi pitch routes the only protection available are nuts/wires. Additionally, there is very rarely an option to place a nut to protect against an ...
11
votes
1answer
119 views

How to prepare for a long rocky alpine route, which is unusual for me?

I would like to prepare for a long route (700 m altitude gain, 12-16 hours, including descent, with alpine start), one like which I have never [successfully] climbed before. It involves many sections ...
3
votes
0answers
53 views

Methods for taping injured wrists [duplicate]

I would like to ask If someone knows a method for taping wrists that supports wrists. I got stretched tendon in my wrist and I would like to support it with tape. I have only found methods for making ...
5
votes
3answers
3k views

How to belay on top of a pitch

When doing a multi-pitch and you reach a belay station (the top of a pitch) you can choose between belaying the lead climber from the body (like you do e.g. indoors where you aren't doing multi-...
5
votes
1answer
1k views

Do climbers shave limbs?

I just bumped into this page at the Bicycles at StackExchange, which talks about how shaving limbs can help a cyclist. Does the same apply to climbers?
8
votes
4answers
917 views

How high to climb before clipping on a sport climb?

The guy who taught me to lead sport in the gym suggested that when I'm going for a clip, I position my body so that the clip is somewhere between my hips and my chest. He claimed it was a bad thing ...
10
votes
2answers
789 views

Leader injured during multipitch trad climb, what to do?

I've been working on improving my self-rescue skills, but the skills I've learned so far seem to pertain mostly to single-pitch climbing. For example, a lot of people emphasize knowing how to escape a ...
4
votes
2answers
996 views

Belay checklist?

I've learned several points in rock climbing where one must perform checks, but none that come with a checklist. And there is a serious difference. I passed an indoor belay test roughly as follows: ...
4
votes
1answer
140 views

Major fall, same for static and dynamic?

The UIAA says that you should retire your gear after a major fall is a fall with fall factor > 1.77. Now I was wondering if this criterion is the same for all kinds of material ? Dynamic ropes Semi-...
6
votes
1answer
123 views

How to go about a long traverse with just Undercut holds?

I just recently got information about an easy climbing route. I am not sure about the grade though. The only part the worries me is a traverse, which is exposed. And long traverses have always been my ...
2
votes
1answer
644 views

Places to Find Rock Climbing Ball Holds [closed]

What are some places to purchase rock climbing ball holds like the ones on Atomik Climbing Holds and Three Ball Climbing? I'm looking to build something similar to cannonball alley on American Ninja ...
16
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3answers
4k views

What are common climbing techniques for strongly overhanging walls and roofs?

What are common climbing techniques for strongly overhanging walls and roofs? In order to avoid a strength oriented climbing style and focus on technique.
5
votes
2answers
148 views

Bouldering in California in the summer

I have a few questions concerning bouldering in California (Mickey's beach and Castle rock) during the month of August. We have two crash pads and a guide book for bouldering in the area. I have had ...
7
votes
1answer
695 views

What does it mean to free a climbing route?

Sometimes I read articles about climbers having freed a route. For example: "Lynn Hill freed the Nose". What does this exactly mean in terms of how they climbed it? Specifically: Are they not ...
3
votes
2answers
1k views

What are common rock-climbing footwork mistakes and how I can spot them?

(This question is related to How can I improve my footwork while rock-climbing?) What are common rock-climbing footwork mistakes and how can I spot them? More specifically: When I started climbing I ...
7
votes
1answer
782 views

How to find climbing shoes for toe and heel hooks?

How can I choose the right climbing shoes especially for toe and heel hooking? More specifically: I have been using very comfortable beginner shoes for the last two years. When I started to advance ...
5
votes
1answer
219 views

Do Half/Twin/Double Ropes get Middle Marked?

I marked my single rope so I can find the middle when rappelling and also to give my belayer a warning when I'm on a route of unknown length. I am going to purchase a set of half ropes soon for some ...
3
votes
1answer
697 views

Shortening a shoulder-length sling to half-length?

For trad climbing, I normally carry shoulder-length slings racked on my harness, set up in Alpine draws at 1/3 their full length. When I'm leading and need to extend my protection, I either use them ...