This tag should be used for all questions about the activity **rock climbing**, books, gear and accessories used or necessary to do rock climbing. The term Rock Climbing is an activity in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls.

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403 views

Semi-static rope 24 hour rule

It is said that a semi-static rope should be submerged for 24 hours before first use. Why is this, and is this before every first use ?
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3answers
2k views

Backup prusik for Abseiling: Where does it go?

When abseiling from an anchor during rock climbing, I like to use a backup prusik as a potential lifesaver in case I screw up. However, I have heard different advice on where to put it, both for ...
8
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1answer
238 views

When should you remove old pitons?

We were up above the treeline below the final climb to a scarcely visited cave and discovered an old rusty piton with a length of weathered webbing tied to it. It was obviously there as a safety for a ...
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3answers
5k views

Sandpapering Finger Tips

Is sandpapering your finger tips an effective way to improve anything about your rock climbing? On occasion, I will see climbers in YouTube videos or people at the local crag using sand paper on ...
8
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2answers
281 views

How can you safely set up a climbing anchor from above?

Let's say I'm walking to the top of a really nice cliff. Take a look at this beauty: And there are some nice cracks to place some protection in, with the slings/rope coming off the cliff, kinda ...
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1answer
3k views

How do you compare between different rock climbing grades?

Different countries and rock climbing disiplines have different grading systems, for example the the British trad grade system (e.g. grade HVS 5(a)) and the US point grading system (e.g. 5.9) If I ...
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1answer
163 views

What are offwidth cracks and what makes them so hard to climb?

There is a notorious kind of crack called offwidths. Several friends of mine stated, that they were pretty devastated at first when they were not able to do 5.8 offwidths in the valley. Later they ...
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2answers
210 views

Belay with a broken arm

I follow Andy Kirkpatrick(Hull's second best climber) on instagram. He rencently posted this photo: with the comment: Teaching self rescue...(how to belay with a broken arm) It looks like a ...
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2answers
9k views

What's the minimum diameter cord to use when climbing a rope using a prusik

If I'm using two prusik's to climb a rope (one as a foot loop and one attached to harness directly) What's the minimum diameter of cord I should be looking for to remain safe?
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2answers
5k views

How to use a Rap Ring

I have never used a Rappel Ring before but I am told they are really useful. Apparently, if you're trying to rappel in a situation where you have to leave gear at the top to get down safely: use a ...
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1answer
2k views

How to calculate the force (kN) generated by a falling climber onto their protection?

What method would I used to calculate the likely force placed on a piece of protection if I were to fall onto it. Using knowledge of my weight, distance between myself and the gear and the amount of ...
8
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1answer
204 views

In an abandoned quarry, is it possible to pry loose rocks from walls until stable?

I have an abandoned quarry near my house, in which I would like to make a hiking route. Almost all of it is enjoyable hiking and easy scrambling, except one part, which requires climbing (estimated ...
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1answer
296 views

Improving sport climbing skills

I recently made a sport climbing course mainly to give it a try and also to learn something about belaying in general. It's fun, challenging and I got hooked quite a bit. Overall I was around 10 times ...
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1answer
60 views

What climbs at Tahquitz were the original definitions of YDS class 5 grades?

From what I understand of the history, Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) grades came about when class 5 in the preexisting system was subdivided into 5.0 through 5.9. This was done by Chuck Wilts, Royal ...
8
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1answer
104 views

Relative abraision resistance of Dyneema slings vs an average dynamic climbing rope

I recently read this answer about rope thickness, and it mentions a tragic incident where a rope was severed during a lead fall due to the rope being dragged across rock edge whilst under tension. ...
8
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1answer
211 views

Climbing Webbing with Taped Ends (where & why)

I was reading through the AAJ, and I came across a report from April this year when somebody died due to an anchor failure. The webbing was joined with some masking tape at the ends, instead of ...
8
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1answer
647 views

When should you start to train with Campus Boards, Hang Boards and Peg Boards?

From which bouldering and climbing grades do you start using Campus Boards, Hang Boards and Peg Boards for training?
8
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1answer
234 views

Rating unorthodox climbs

This question is sprouted from Brick Wall Rating I occasionally climb in places where it seems unorthodox, such as a brick wall. I've found that even with the plethora of hand holds that buildings ...
7
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3answers
3k views

What is a typical elongation of a dynamic climbing rope?

I'm looking into buying a rope for rock climbing, and I know that I need a dynamic rope for lead climbing. However, trying to find information on the elongation percentages of ropes is proving tricky. ...
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3answers
1k views

Should I be using Dyneema slings for lead climbing anchors?

I've seen a few of these comparisons around but I've always struggled to make sense of them. At the moment I do quite a lot of Alpine style routes (lowish grade (HS), long multi pitch routes, ...
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2answers
431 views

If an autoblock inteferes with a belay device will a fireman belay have any effect?

When rappeling I understand the need for a backup--whether an autoblock below the belay device, or a second person providing a fireman belay. My understanding is that using an autoblock incorrectly ...
7
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1answer
516 views

Tie in to harness, top to bottom or bottom to top

When tying into a harness with a figure eight follow through knot, does it matter if the running end comes up through the tie in points or goes down through them? From the figure it is hard to see ...
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4answers
700 views

How to top belay 2 climbers at the same time on multi-pitch climb?

Senario: I am leading the climb with 2 ropes. I reach at the first pitch. I put myself on the self anchor and built a master point. Now I want to top belay 2 climbers at the same time. They both will ...
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2answers
1k views

Big Wall Climbing Portaledge Toilet Etiquette?

So I was watching this video, and got to the part where this guy and girl are discussing and demonstrating whose method of peeing off the portaledge is scariest. Then I of course thought to myself, ...
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1answer
185 views

How to achieve a climbing anchor that can withstand an upward load?

Commonly when setting SARENE-SA trad anchors on multi pitch routes the only protection available are nuts/wires. Additionally, there is very rarely an option to place a nut to protect against an ...
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3answers
1k views

How to take care of climbing hands?

Being a climber one aim is to toughen up your hands (related: How to toughen up hands?). Building up callused skin is important but how do you keep it? Having dry hands especially from the climbing ...
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1answer
657 views

How to find climbing shoes for toe and heel hooks?

How can I choose the right climbing shoes especially for toe and heel hooking? More specifically: I have been using very comfortable beginner shoes for the last two years. When I started to advance ...
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2answers
223 views

Keeping the things interesting in a small climbing gym

I had been a regular climber half a decade back. And, then I got off the routine. Now I am trying to get back into climbing. For that, I go to a local climbing gym kind of thing managed by a friend ...
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1answer
564 views

Can a Finger Pulley injury be predicted / anticipated?

I resumed climbing a couple of months back after a gap of a couple of years. After spending a month of quality time at the wall regularly in order to get back in touch, I have started to try different ...
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1answer
2k views

How can I practice Climbing without the actual wall and/or equipment?

I had never been a gifted kind of a climber being more fascinated by Backpacking than Rock Climbing. Its been almost 2 years that I did some genuine climbing. And, I am planning to resume it very ...
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2answers
400 views

How to maintain climbing strength while training for a marathon

Over the next 6 months I will be training for my first marathon. This means I will be running 4 times a week, with at least one long (10-20 mile) run each weekend. I have run several half-marathons ...
7
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1answer
129 views

What accreditations should a professional rock climbing cams reslinger have?

Rock climbing cams often have integrated slings. Like all webbing, these slings can be degraded by UV and wear out much sooner than the cam themselves. There are numerous companies that will ...
7
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1answer
625 views

What does it mean to free a climbing route?

Sometimes I read articles about climbers having freed a route. For example: "Lynn Hill freed the Nose". What does this exactly mean in terms of how they climbed it? Specifically: Are they not ...
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3answers
1k views

For what it's worth: climbing-tape

The other day I used some mysterious, ultra-sticky climbing-tape at my local gym, which got me thinking: How much should I be paying for my tape? Prices for climbing-specific tape seem to be somewhat ...
7
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1answer
448 views

Which is better, a single fisherman's knot or a double?

I ask this question based on the fact that tensile strength tests show that putting a double fisherman's knot in kernmantle rope makes it more likely for the rope to snap than a rope tied with a ...
7
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1answer
352 views

water knot vs figure 8 follow through vs X for rock climbing anchor - What is easiest to untie?

I've recently been using figure 8 follow through on anchor webbing, and although it takes more time to dress properly and setup than a water knot, it's easier to untie at the end of the day and I feel ...
7
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2answers
157 views

Climbing Insurance [closed]

I think I should've donde this ages ago, but, well... better late than never. Could you recommend a good insurance that covers climbing? It could be a travel insurance or a medical insurance. I'm ...
7
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2answers
284 views

Avoiding tangles when leading on double ropes

Doing multipitch routes with double ropes is great, but (at least for me) inevitably results in messy tangles, twists, and crosses of the two ropes. What are some strategies to prevent the ropes from ...
6
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3answers
168 views

What Rope to purchase?

I climb comfortably at 5.11c at my gym (Top Rope Only), but I have never climbed outdoors so a group of experienced climbers have offered to teach my friend and I how to lead sport routes. I have ...
6
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2answers
224 views

Back-stepping versus a layback?

At the gym today, a climber referred to "back-stepping" for a move that I would have referred to as a layback. I said, "I would have called that a layback," and he said, "Yeah, the difference is kind ...
6
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1answer
110 views

How to go about a long traverse with just Undercut holds?

I just recently got information about an easy climbing route. I am not sure about the grade though. The only part the worries me is a traverse, which is exposed. And long traverses have always been my ...
6
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2answers
142 views

What is the term for/manufacturer of belay devices with a clip that holds the ATC onto the carabiner?

I broke my friend's ATC, and am trying to find a replacement, but I don't quite know what to look for. It was a somewhat unique unit, at least among those I've seen; it was a standard "basket" ATC ...
6
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2answers
127 views

Efficient and reliable method for managing a nut tool while following on a trad climb?

When you're following a pitch on a trad climb, what is a good method for racking and handling the nut tool? My goals are to be efficient but not to drop the tool. My current system, which I'm not ...
6
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2answers
278 views

Brick Wall Rating [closed]

Hi I am a new boulderer and have climbed many difficult routes, or official ones for that matter. Currently when I am not able to go out the local region, I attempt to send the side of my house. The ...
6
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2answers
533 views

What rope to chose to hold my body weight from a monkey fist knot

I am trying to make my own wrecking ball since buying one is expensive and making one is also more fun. My idea was to use 2 cricket balls that I have and tie monkey fist knots around them and finish ...
6
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1answer
81 views

Replacing rope/cord/tape/slings on protection gear

We all know that due to age-related deterioration, ropes, harnesses, slings and other "software" should be replaced after a certain period even if thay have not been damaged or been involved in high ...
6
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1answer
524 views

Cramping Fingers

I recently re-started to get into rock climbing but I've been having a lot of tough time with my fingers cramping up after I get off the wall. And the worst part of it is, I have to paddle down a good ...
6
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3answers
591 views

How to use legs more effectively to avoid grip stress on overhangs

Overhangs are a weak point in rock climbing for me currently. I think I know the theory: the goal is to use the legs to push yourself up, keep straight arms as much as possible and avoid pulling, and ...
6
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1answer
77 views

What's the easiest to release, though solid, knot “on a bight”?

I am practicing falls with a self belay device indoors and I am tying the rope to the anchors so to fall on a single strand of rope as I would in real life. I used the figure eight on a bight but I ...
6
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1answer
197 views

Sustainable systems for carrying out human waste

I am looking for sustainable alternatives for carrying out human waste. WAG bags, though convenient, sadly have to end up in land-fills. I am looking for a system where the non-biodegrading components ...