New answers tagged

2

Important disclaimer: I am not a medical doctor, all of the following is based on knowledge acquired from climbing courses and experience. Therefore I will keep it general, but take anything with a grain of salt (as you should with anything considering your health from unknown sources). Hangboarding and campusing are extremely dangerous to your fingers. As ...


4

Your main concern here is going to be shock loading. Nuts are typically tested to resist static compression load. Any shock is typically adsorbed by the rope and other equipment, so they get the mimimum shock load when/if you fall. If they don't fit well and are loose (or are just passed though a hole and are therefore moving around all over the place) then ...


5

I can offer some basic advice on two of your points but I've never experienced the injury nor do I know a great deal about it unfortunately. Do most good climbers hold back the dropped fingers as in the penultimate image, or do they flex them down as in the last one? You should attempt to keep the fingers not being trained, loose (not crimped and ...


0

For my uses {natural fibers, normally) , having a wider contact surface, a gentler angle of ascent and descent as the rope slides is a factor. As stated above{ " bendng the rope less sharply "} A specialized aspect but important to my segment of the community.


1

This question has already been well answered but I would like to address a slightly different point: What's the problem with a wet rope anyway? Dynamic climbing ropes are, to the best of my knowledge, universally manufactured from Nylon 6 or Nylon 6,6. Nylon is a somewhat unusual polymer in that it readily absorbs water, and its properties change ...


4

Two answers: If you are climbing toprope, then you connect the rope via locking carabiner to your belay loop. You do not have to expect high forces. If you are leading you should tie the rope directly to the tie in loops. When falling in a lead you have to expect much higher forces than when toproping. They can relatively easily exceed the crossloading ...


10

A number of prominent climbing organizations (e.g. International Federation of Sport Climbing) either recommend or require two locking carabiners for clip-in attachment to a harness, e.g. IFSC Rules 2015 [1MB DOC] 8.3.5 The climbing rope shall be connected to the competitor's harness by two Screwgate or Self-Locking Karabiners arranged in opposition ...


2

It's not necessary, but neither is using two non-lockers really. People usually use two carabiners because they will bend the rope less sharply, reducing friction when loaded (also reducing wear on the biners). This is very common in top roping, when the climber is expecting to be lowered. I suspect the person that setup the anchor in the picture wanted ...


3

As far as I am aware there are no obligatory guidelines on belaying in climbing. Manufacturers, climbing associations and climbing businesses establish their own rules/recommendations, sometimes trying to get them applied universally. Of course these rules are not completely independent, but are based on past experiences (accidents) and commonly accepted ...


8

Carabiners always attach to the belay loop. Attaching carabiners to the tie-in-points causes them to get loaded incorrectly. Carabiners are designed to load the spine, which is the side opposite the gate. Attaching a carabiner to the tie-in-points causes the gate to be loaded, since three strands get loaded (the tie-in loops and the rope end). An ...


10

Yes, it has been done! You can try contacting the people at Paradox Sports; this sort of adaptive climbing is exactly what they do. In terms of personal experiences, there are a couple of threads on Mountain Project covering this issue. (By coincidence, at least two or three of the climbers on those threads work/worked for Paradox.) The first thread has ...


9

I have a friend with cerebral palsy who likes to climb, and can only use one arm, he did fairly well belaying with a Petzl GRIGRI: It's a self locking belay device, and can be used easily and rather safely with only one hand. Though not as safe, you can belay one handed with and ATC easily enough, the trick is to never let go of the rope while belaying, ...


12

The only thing this 30+ years old piece of climbing history should be connected to is a fixture to mount it in a frame or display case.



Top 50 recent answers are included