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Personally, I can easily see how this unintended loading can happen. Second gets to a tricky part, asks leader for beta, leader moves over to get a better view of second. This question is an example of one of the really hard problems in climbing. It's almost impossible to get feedback about how well you are building your anchors. You just don't get many ...



Hmmm... could it be that you mean the DMM Belay master? The main functions of the plastic clip are to ensure that the carabiner gate is screwed shut before it can be closed, and to prevent cross-loading of the carabiner.


Another benefit of a close knot is less rope movement at the tie in. This is the rare case of nylon-to-nylon contact in the safety chain, abrasion will happen with heavy use. Also, +1 for getting hit with the back up knot.


One other issue with having a high knot is what happens when you fall. I once tied a figure-eight close to my harness (no issue there), but then followed it up with a strangle knot that was quite high (maybe a foot above the figure-eight). When I fell, I was sure someone had punched me in the face. In reality the rope had snapped tight and the strangle knot ...


As a girl 167cm tall (5'7") I'm on a shorter side of climbers spectra. I believe that while sometimes not being able to reach a hold can mean a no-go on a route, there is plenty of situations where being short gives you the edge: Shorter body means shorter levers. This comes handy in steep overhangs and in any other situation that requires a lot of body ...


Not much advantage being a short climber to be honest.I'm probably the shortest around, I'm 5'1" male @ 120lbs and getting stronger in my mid 30's. I can solve most problems, but not all reachy problems with no intermediates. Be creative all the most, no different than your daily life. Its what life has brought to me is to think outside the box. Sometimes ...

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