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11

You do not need a tarp in addition to the rainfly of your tent (that's what the rainfly is for). While it's always nicer to pack up a dry tent instead of a wet one, as long as you air dry the tent when you get home you'll have no problems with damaging the rainfly. If you do not dry your tent at home, it will mildew and smell really, really bad. I ...


6

Folding becomes an issue if you religiously fold in the same spot over and over -- say line up the corners all pretty and re-fold. Try this with any plastic, thin metal, etc... fold, unfold, fold, unfold, fold ad infinitum, and it will weaken and fail. If you fold a different way each time, then you run little risk of this becoming a problem, though be ...


5

I don't take a tarp to protect my tent, I take it to create another dry area outside - typically for cooking and eating. It can also create shade for cooking, eating, and just lounging around. (On a rainy day I'll lounge around in the tent if anywhere, but on a nice day there are lots of options.) Packing a wet tent won't damage it, but if your tent bag is ...


5

I've always either used 3-in-1 oil or the gun oil, the kind used for cleaning and caring for firearms. These both have always worked fine for me for years and years of use. Usually I just wipe a small coating of the oil on with a shop rag before leaving it for a while. Make sure it's clean and dry before applying the oil. EDIT: AFAIK the type of oil or ...


5

1.) I would be hesitant to advise you to put them in the dryer. I've never tried or experienced it myself, and my evidence is completely anecdotal, but I've heard that the neoprene has the potential to turn brittle if exposed to forced heating. 2.) The two main things to consider when drying out gloves like this (as well as other things like boots, socks, ...


4

After some googling I found a very nice guide to axe maintenance here: http://woodtrekker.blogspot.nl/2011/04/beginners-guide-to-basic-axe-care-and.html The head of the axe is the easier part to protect. As with all carbon steel objects, the enemy here is moisture. If the head gets wet, it will start to rust. All that is required to protect it is to ...


3

After considering the existing answers and doing some additional research, here's my take: Spray-on waterproofing Spray on waterproofing should be used on Multi layer garments. You only want to treat the outer layer which reduces the chance that it will be 'wetting out' quickly, which allows the inner membrane to maintain it's porous properties. I've ...


3

There is a thread about the topic on backpacker. It doesn't quite resolve the dilemma. Personally I stuff the fly on the outside of my backpack because it is faster. It may also have a chance to breath/dry. Because packing and unpacking is faster when stuffing, there is a chance that I will get it out to dry for a few minutes in the afternoon if it is wet. ...


2

Unless other gear like e.g. harnesses which are designed to take a certain load over and over again, climbing ropes get kind of "used up" with every fall they have to take. According to UIAA and other norms they have to take a certain number of falls with certain conditions (weight, fall factor etc.) to get those norm signs. Every fall weakens the rope a ...


2

From the Nikwax website: Wash-In "For the convenience of a wash-in product try: TX.Direct® Wash-In" Spray-On "For non-machine washable items or those with wicking linings use: TX.Direct® Spray-On"


1

To emphasize what Liam and Paul hinted at, in all likelihood, too much nikwax wash-in and the like could potentially act against gore-tex by blocking the pores and preventing the fabric from breathing ( thus soaking in your own sweat ). What gore-text primarily recommends on their site and what I've had more success with is simply tumble drying the garment ...


1

Polishing a blade means sanding it with very fine compound (more than 2000 factor). Specialized pastes exist just for that. For example:


1

I mostly use(d) a piece of sandpaper to get rid of residue and from what I've been testing it really helps to put an oil coating on your knife. When it's coated once it's easier to clean by just adding more oil and rubbing it off. I posted a question about axe heads but I also tested it on my knifes: What type of oil to use for axe heads


1

LBell has neatly summarized, that folding leads to smaller pack and stuffing is just faster. I'd like to add some considerations here (being an adept of stuffing). Sometimes you have to fold (and carefully!) because of a tight bag supplied with your tent or tarp. The bag will be too small to stuff your stuff inside. In this case I'd recommend to throw away ...


1

They key to all selly shoes is bacteria. From a prevention perspective, I always wash my feet before they spend a prolonged or arduous of time in shoes or boots. A good spray with an anti-bacteria can do the trick. I've also heard good thing about dusting them with bicarb and then vacuuming it out some time later.


1

I had a huge problem with smelly climbing shoes when climbing in the gym or on long multi-pitch days. The single most effective thing I have come across is taking the shoes off between climbs/pitches. This seems tedious at first, but once you make it part of your routine it's not that bad. There still is some smell, but the situation has drastically ...


1

I have found I had a similar issues with a couple backpacks this past damp winter. I was told Chlorine bleach but did not like the idea of a white or discolored backpack. Someone also told me vinegar although I never got around to trying it. What worked for me was just leaving my backpacks outside in the sun on hot DRY summer days. I did very little ...


1

What is the best way to maintain Gore-Tex walking boots? Clean them occasionally... Do they need reproofing occasionally or is just brushing the mud off enough? and waterproof them. You will notice that they need to be re-waterproofed...when they get wet. Also note: the Gore Tex membrane is inside the boot, between the outer (leather or ...



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