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8

It is normal to a certain degree that wet leather, after drying, is a bit stiffer than before. The effects will generally be worse the longer your leather was in contact with water if the water was hot/warm the faster the leather dries (so don't dry over a heater!) Normally the stiffness should go away soon if the items are worn/used: after a short ...


7

It looks like the waterproof coating is flaking off. Try washing with a cloth and warm soap and water. I've had reasonable success with this method in the past.


6

When you think of the amount of wool we normally wear and use - and how it behaves - the only reason a wool garment would stink is that the wool hasn't been properly processed. This document is bit of an eye-opener. https://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/2009/08/11/what-does-organic-wool-mean/ On average, each ton of greasy wool contains: 150 KG ...


6

Oil the knife, then leave it alone until you are prepping your outing. Oil doesn't evaporate, it dries. When it's dried, it has the same and perhaps even better protective properties than fresh oil. It just makes you feel better to see the shiny fresh oil, but unless you wiped it away, it's still there and has dried. When you are prepping for your outing, ...


5

Just a suggestion, you could try putting a small amount of something abrasive (such as rock salt or perhaps gravel) into the bag, closing the bag securely with a zip tie on the zipper pulls & placing it in a clothes drier on the Fluff setting (no heat) for some period of time. Or if putting it in the drier makes you nervous, you could try agitating it ...


5

Best thing you can do is find a video on the internet of someone putting them on – same make and model of chains as yours if possible, then practice several times, ideally when it's warm an sunny or in your garage. Its OK to go for a short drive (100meter or so) up and down a quiet street to get the feel of them, but don't go fast – max speed with chains ...


4

I own a couple of different Fjällräven items (trousers, jacket, duffel) and a number of my friends to as well. While my personal experience with the Greenland wax is limited, it is my understanding, that you can basically personalize your items to your specific need using more or less wax. More wax means more water repellent, stiffer material (less wear &...


4

Full leather shoes are easy to take care of in a way: they'll perform exactly accordingly to how you treat them. First off: if the shoes are new, don't to anything. They'll already be treated/impregnated and ready to use (apart from breaking them in). You'll likely not gain anything by applying additional impregnation. Treatments I have experience with: ...


4

If your putting it away for a long period of time I like to coat the blade in oil. The oil will repel any moisture and stop it rusting. Overtime the oil will evaporate, if you use quite a thick oil (or grease) it will last longer. You'll still likely want to give it a quick sharpen (as well as a polish and clean) when you first use it.


3

should I be untying the fisherman's knot between uses? Typically it's simply not possible to untie a fisherman's knot, especially after it's been loaded, so that wouldn't even be an option. This is actually a good reason to tie your Prusik cords with an offset overhand (EDK), because then if you ever need to untie the loop and use it for something else, ...


3

I tried using Goo Gone on a small portion of a pack like this. It did not work very well. I then tried a rubber cement eraser (It is basically a hard piece of rubber that gathers up loose pieces of the cement for graphic arts work.) That did not work. Renisis was on the right track. I tried a fine grained paint sanding block (Home Depot). That took off ...


3

Just another option to OddDeer. I was taught to use a block of beeswax. Make sure the string is dry and rub the block up and down the string while the bow is strung. Very cost effective, one block lasted me years, and works as well as bow wax. As a side note always wax around the nock point otherwise you will have a weak point over time.


3

First of all, yes, you should absolutely wax your bow string. Especially if you've this kind of setup. The good news is, that it's extremely easy. Get a bow wax Purchase an appropriated wax from your local bow-dealer. Just buy a "real" bow-wax. There are a lot of resources on the www which suggest different kinds of other waxes. However, this is often a ...


3

Actually, contrary to what alot of people are saying, the wash-in treatment wont block pores of multi-layer fabrics (unless its REALLY dirty) The chemicals used are designed to break down particulates as small as possible. The 'wash-in' also doesnt do a whole lot of actual waterproofing on the facbic, since its soaked in water itself. It simply removes dirt ...


2

Whenever you store your snowboard and do not intend to use it the next day again (unless you really like your board), then do the following Clean it. Dry it. For longer storage, usually summer storage, do the same as above and Wax the base, but do not scrape off excess wax. It adds some protection while storing. Store in dry and cool place (with higher ...


2

An excellent thing to use to protect a knife blade for storage is microcrystalline wax ( a common brand name is Renaissance Wax). This is a refined petroleum wax which is less prone to oxidation than plant based oils or waxes. The issue with oils drying is that they oxidise as they dry which can make them acidic. potentially hastening corrosion and can ...


1

If the board is new then the main thing to worry about is the bearings. Riding through puddles increases your chance of picking up grit and other abrasives that can ruin bearings, and although many modern bearings are rust resistant, not all are. Older boards, especially those with some damage can also allow water to soak in between the layers. This will ...


1

I treat my leather boots with neatsfoot oil, and that generally is plenty to protect the leather and keep it supple in mud and wet. If it is snow with a lot of salt and things around, I might add something waxy like Snoseal or mink oil. Overall, neatsfoot oil is cheap and works wonderfully. Generally it is all I need spending a lot of time outdoors in ...


1

Just face the pointy bits towards each other and wrap the webbing around the bundle to keep them together. I then just chuck them in the bottom of my bag if I know I don't need them or in the top if I know I will. You could pad them with a hat, spare socks or what ever if you were worried about other more delicate items. Also even if they start out sharp ...



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