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10

To answer your question as to the ideal break position when using the munter: It depends. It depends on your comfort and experience with the knot, its application and the situation. I have rappeled and belayed with munter-hitches on numeral occasions. A double stranded munter-hitch rappel provides a significant amount of friction and unless you want to ...


10

As already stated, these are very similar knots regarding there use. So there is not much that differentiates them from each other, but to other friction hitches. The advantage of the prusik is the "clean" design: All strands are neatly position parallel to themselves, so it is easily inspected for correctness. For the Klemheist this is not the main ...


9

A climber and aborist should be superbly proficient in a knot or technique before relying on it. An Arborist will spend 100's of hours a year climbing - much more than average climbers, and has more time to become proficient in complex techniques, and uses them enough the advantages are worth the effort. Most climbers on the other hand will climb a few ...


9

The main reasons is simplicity and habituation: A prusik made from a loop is easily taught and controlled. This is a point that many experienced climber forget about often: When people start they may struggle on the basic knots. So for the first thing to learn a simplicity is more important than functionality. And the prusik is a long established and ...


9

A Munter hitch can brake regardless of the orientation of the brake strand. It provides the greatest braking force in the "closed" position (the brake strand running alongside the load strand), and a lesser force in the open position. The first site I found with testing found the following brake force values (tested with 11mm rope): Easy one-handed ...


8

Knots by Grog say: If you are asked to learn to tie the Sheepshank, please request your Troop Leader to eliminate this knot and replace it with something safe and useful, e.g., the Alpine Butterfly Loop is an excellent way of creating a loop in the middle of a length of rope and can also be safely used to shorten a rope. So it sounds like you ...


6

For certain purposes, the offset overhand bend is not just safe but safer than any known alternative. The alternative name "European death knot" is a joke referring to the fact that to the uninitiated, the knot looks like it wouldn't be secure. It's like the phrase "politically incorrect," which nobody today uses without irony. There is a common ...


6

The European Death Knot is commonly used for joining two ropes for an abseil. I would not say it is "not considered safe" - e.g. the British Mountaineering Council's website lists it as a possible abseil knot. Although not the strongest knot it has the advantage that it is small and less likely to snag on edges than larger knots or stronger symmetrical ...


5

I would go with either a barrel hitch or a barrel sling depending on the exact purpose. With the added constraint that the rope can only go around the object once the the "magic" needs to be in the knot/hitch, I think a trucker's hitch is probably best (but not very good). It will let you get a tight fit. The holding power will depend on the stiffness and ...


5

According to this source its name arose initially in the US where unfamiliarity bred distrust, and because the occasional disaster, likely with the Flat Figure 8 version, caused both knots to be branded with the EDK (European Death Knot) name. Another source says its name is because this knot looked sketchy for americans when they european climbers using ...


5

I believe the better way is a list of easy to tie, easy to inspect, reliable must know knots. My advise to beginners is master just one way to tie each knot, and only a few knots (3 or 4 is all you need to climb safely). Ignore alternate ways to tie the same knot and ignore people who tell you there is a better knot for that job till you have mastered ...


4

I love these situations "It tried it once, and it worked, must be safe"...... I am so glad aviation and car industry don't work that way. The answer has to be No, its not safe with ropes of different dimensions. Its also not safe with ropes of the same dimension. Which is less safe - I don't know and I don't care and neither should you. There is one place ...


4

Coming from a climbing background, I would propose the following: Tie the cord/rope into a loop, for example using the One-sided overhand bend or the double fisherman's knot Secure it around the pole using a Prusik knot. Note that the english wikipedia entry is only about climbing; the german version also mentions that this friction knot can be used e.g. ...


4

Something that occurred to me after asking is that a Prusik is bidirectional, whereas generally the arborist's knots are unidirectional. I believe the unidirectional knots are easier to both slide up and release, making them superior in a dedicated climbing rig, but their application is limited as well. Following both existing answers emphasizing ...


3

The knot shown on Climbing.com is indeed a barrel knot, and yes the barrel knot they're showing you to tie is essentially a triple overhand, but the difference is a barrel knot isn't defined by the number of overhand loops you put in it. A barrel knot can have three, four, five, or more loops tied into it, a double overhand in the end of a rope can also be ...


3

My brother happened to be over tonight using my climbing wall, he does rescue work, and he says they use this knot to tie leg loops for rescue harnesses. First of all, the knot in your picture isn't properly dressed, the loop pulls through the knot and ends up looking like this: It's a variation of a bowline on a bight. My brother's going to check his ...


3

I realize this is not the answer you are looking for, but it deserves to be mentioned. As @amphibient mentions in a comment. People with long term medical issues that make tying shoes difficult, generally use shoes with Velcro straps or shoes that slip on without laces or ties. Alternatively, for short term issue, you can use the shoes you have now, ...


3

I would recommend using a double figure eight I always use this knot when tying off the end of the rope, it's stronger, safer, and it's easier to untie. If that doesn't work for you, then try a double-nine (double figure nine on a bight), it looks messy, but it comes loose real easy.


3

Yes, this will reduce the strength of your sling. Look at the rating on your carabiner, though. It's probably something like: 23kn, 7kn, 7kn. What will reduce the strength of your system most? Loading your biner sideways! This technique is a great way to mitigate that risk. Much more worth the reduction in strength of the sling, even if it is as much as ...


2

I have been climbing on a yosemite bowline for a long time, and never had any problems. I don't see it as any harder to check than a figure 8 once you are used to it. It's easy to tie, secure, faster than the figure 8, requires less rope, and never gets difficult to untie after falls. It's a great knot, and there seems to be a lot of superstitious aversion ...


2

I think you invented a new knot, or at least one that is decently documented (my non-trivial search came up empty). Regardless, the bigger question (as others pointed out in the comments) is how it handles in various tests, and whether it fares better, worse, or on par with the flat overhand bend. Even if it was previously named, it may not have been tested ...


2

You may be referring to a bunny ears figure eight - it's an versatile knot used to construct rock climbing anchors. http://www.backcountry.com/explore/bunny-ears-the-best-multi-pitch-climbing-knot-youve-never-heard-of It has the benefit of having redundancy in the main loop (two loops in bunny ears compared to one in a typical figure eight). It's also ...


2

They are essentially the same knot on the rope, they're both friction hitches. The difference is how they connect to your harness. Distel hitches are used mostly by arborists, one advantage a distel hitch has over a prussik is how well it works in combination with a pulley system: You are right that they both ultimately do the same job, so do the ...


2

A Knot is a knot and its usually not something to get tied up in knots about. An simple overhand is a better knot in tape, purely because a Fig8 is impossible to lie neatly. As far as the question goes, Fig 8 is good. With any knot if its the only one you know, its far safer than any other knot you could use. Fig 8 might be a bit hard to undo at the end of ...


1

EDIT: With your edits to the question it would appear this won't work for you. I would use a constrictor knot. If you work the knot such that the contact point where the line cross is on one of the corners of the object, you can get it very tight indeed. Tied properly, a constrictor knot can be very-very difficult to untie, and may need to be cut off ...


1

Firstly, the knot in the video by climbing.com is not a double overhand knot. They do one additional turn, so I would call it a "triple overhand knot". Now if you google this term you get hits, but only videos/discussions, no entry in animatedknots.com or wikis. So I guess at climbing.com they just made up an in my opinion poor name instead of just calling ...


1

This knot is actually what our trip guides use to set up our high ropes course, each loop goes to a carabiner on their full body harness (which is a great way for both loops to be equalized) and they climb up the course with this knot. I'm not sure why you're saying it's not to be used, but our research and years of using this knot have been conducive to a ...


1

Yep, when weighted the rope pulls through and reveals a false pair of loops. Definitely not a knot/loop that should be used!


1

Others have covered the basic knots here already. Rather than post more, I want to point out that you should know one or more knots for each basic use: Tying two pieces of line together requires a "bend". Three common bends are square (reef) knot, sheet bend, and fisherman's bend. Each has some advantages over the others, and these are important to ...



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