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6

I've had to deal with this question a lot over many years of teaching anchor building. When people have asked this question in the past I usually suggest they simply use the anchor you are most comfortable setting up, they will definitely both work. That said, if we want to dive deeper into the rabbit hole, it's important to identify some distinct ...


3

Both cordelettes and equalettes are made from loops of durable material; either a very large sewn sling or a loop of accessory cord (6 meters of 7 mm accessory cord is a common length). The issue with cordelettes that led to the idea of the equalette is that a standard cordelette does not equalize loads all that well. Most of the load will be applied to ...


2

Many climbers are moving away from using cordelettes, including Will Gadd and John Long. Instead a double length sling is clipped to two pieces making a magic x with a third piece and a second sling adding complete redundancy. This set up equalizes much better than a cordelette in most situations and you don't have to carry around a bunch of bulky 7mm. ...



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