Tag Info

New answers tagged

1

I have seen this managed by having a runner on a low mounted hanger on the a joining climb. The resulting zigzag creates significant friction when the rope is loaded. An other way to manage this is to give the lead a dynamic belay in a fall - allowing a foot or so of rope to run though the belay, rather than just locking him off. Takes a bit of practice, ...


0

Without some kind of ground anchor, you'll have to adapt your belay setup. First of all, the belayer doesn't have much choice about where to stand. Stand as close as you can to the first clipped draw, or you'll experience the dreaded smacked-into-the-wall-got-knocked-out-and-dropped-my-partner-effect. Second, a 50% difference isn't huge - lot's of ...


5

The simplest and most straight forward solution would be to connect yourself to a ground anchor. If you decide to do this while belaying a lead climber, you might want to let the rope slide a little when they fall, because you will loose the ability to provide a soft-catch by offsetting your body-weight.


1

I would like to point out that in my line of work, we have retrievable ring and webbing anchors. They're called ring and rings. They probably wouldn't work in every circumstance, but i know that they would work in some. Just look up ring and ring friction savers.


4

Liam hinted at the method that was popular in the US while back, and probably still is: follow an experienced climber and clean their gear. You'll get to see actual placements & find out how hard or easily a piece of pro should come out. Aid climbing (with bounce testing) is a great way to learn too. And a great way to kill six hours going only 100 ...


4

In the UK trad climbing is the most popular form of outdoor rock climbing: there are sport routes but there are many many more trad routes, so many people (me included) actually trad climb before they sport climb (outdoors anyway). Instruction Obviously the best (and safest) way to learn is from someone more experienced than yourself. Three good options ...


8

The best way to lear how to place protections is to climb sport routes that are also suited to protection placement. Bring plenty of quickdraws (and of gear to place of course). Use the bolts, but place protections as if those were your only alternative up there. This will, as the very first and foremost thing, allow you to place plenty of them. The more, ...


7

I think that rope management at your harness (in both rock and ice climbing) is an extension of managing your rope while you're clipping into your pro. You carry different lengths of draws and slings so you can keep your rope as straight as possible to reduce drag and avoid popping out all your pro when you weight the rope. If you're climbing left of your ...


1

The biggest problem with a rope between you legs is what happens in a fall and the way the rope can cause all sorts of nasty outcomes when its between your legs and you don;t get a clean offload. In the gym you expect to fall, its something that happens regularly in gym climbing. Despite many falls being well controlled and expected, a rope between your legs ...


0

This site has a calculator that easily answers this question! https://www.vcalc.com/wiki/vCalc/Rock+Climbing+Fall+Impact+Force


2

When you say short, I'm assuming your girlfriend is probably about my height which is 5'0. I boulder with my boyfriend who is about 6'. It is very frustrating watching a taller person walk in front of me and effortlessly reach a problem that I was just popping a vein to reach. As a shorter person, we will be forced to learn better technique, flexibility ...


9

If it "easily came out of the rock," then it was at best useless and at worst a safety hazard, because of the possibility that someone might naively trust it. Removing it was a public service. Is it even wise to use pitons that you find in the rock? I use old fixed pins as pro all the time. If it's on a popular climbing route and has obviously been ...



Top 50 recent answers are included