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11

Are my fears of the anchor pieces popping out justified? Yes. This is an especially big concern when the climber has already placed the first piece of pro above the anchor, but falls before getting a second piece in. The fall factor can be large, and the direction of pull is up. If you don't have any gear that can hold against an upward pull, then your ...


7

Rockfax have a handy conversion chart this is the generally accepted version though it is (like all climbing grades) subjective. Below are the conversion charts: "Bold" trad routes "Safe" Trad Routes Bouldering


5

I don't know what the rules are where you climb, but those kinds of situations–where you find a bomber belay point (comfy ledge), but no suitable anchor points–are where I'm temped to bolt an anchor or two. I like to keep a couple pieces of hardware on me specifically for when I need to make an anchor where there's no natural protection, and I'm an advocate ...


5

You probably want your tool to have a longer extension, more like 100 cm. If this length bothers you, consider using an extendable bungee cord (e.g. 80 cm long, which you can stretch to 100 cm); twist it so it compacts itself when retracted. It might be possible to use a spiral/telephone cord, however it may be too bulky (I have seen it used for ice axes, ...


5

If the crack was good enough for your anchor all on its own, there are a couple of ways to use that: redirect a regular direct belay: hang a karabiner from a sling around the tree belay sitting on the ledge, redirecting the live rope through that karabiner here, you're just using the tree to avoid pulling the second off sideways or letting excessive ...


4

Wikipedia has a simple treatment of this problem, as well as some notes on at least one of the reasons why the simple treatment is only a very rough approximation. Let be the impact force quoted by the manufacturer, which is normally 12 kN for a single rope. Let be the 80 kg mass used for lab tests, let , let and let f=h/L be the fall factor ...


4

When I am trad-climbing (actually generally when rock-climbing), I carry 60cm (shoulder length) and 120cm slings. Some 60cm slings set up as alpine draws, the rest over my shoulder. When setting up a belay station, 60cm slings tend to be too short. When using a double boolean as central point, that uses already most of the sling length. Further, when ...


3

Wild Country's nut tool has a spring leach with a tiny biner. See here Ive used it many times and the leash provides enough length for almost any position and the spring keeps it closer to you body.


2

Personally, I can easily see how this unintended loading can happen. Second gets to a tricky part, asks leader for beta, leader moves over to get a better view of second. This question is an example of one of the really hard problems in climbing. It's almost impossible to get feedback about how well you are building your anchors. You just don't get many ...


2

If the top biner gets loaded weirdly against a hanger, a fixed connection to the sling (girth hitch) makes it more likely that the biner will break. This is why non-alpine draws have the top biner free and the bottom one fixed. Petzl Manual


1

This is a good calculator to use, just plug in the data you know and it'll give you an accurate answer and save you some number crunching. If you want to do it by hand wikipedia has a formula and a better explanation here.


1

Mate if I got it right what you made was even worse than the American Triangle of Death: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_death_triangle The solution there, would be using only the crack by placing some (3 or 4) pieces there. If you hadn't enough pieces to stick in the crack, it'd had probably been safer with a single piece of gear in the crack and ...



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