Hot answers tagged training
9
You have a few options:
Don't worry about the lease and accept the fact that you may lose your security deposit. You can take the board down before you move out, spackle over the holes, and hope the landlord doesn't notice. I live in the US, and that seems to be the preferred option here. Everyone I know who has a hangboard has done this, and they seem ...
6
General fitness is the only technique you can employ without going to higher altitudes.
Acclimatization is the most common technique. Altitude sickness occurs at 2,400 m, so you go to a base camp (for example Cuzco if you're doing the Incan trail, or the South/North Base camps for Everest) and you let your body adjust to the altitude over a few days ...
6
There isn't necessarily a way to prepare your body for the altitude. You should however:
Be in good condition overall, i.e. able to handle at sea level more than you are planning to do at altitude.
Try to spend several days at a lower altitude (like 7000 feet) doing some aerobic activity before trying to go higher.
Drink more water than usual.
Take ...
4
According the the UIAA: International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation
After 8850 feet a rate of 1250 feet per day above the previous days sleeping altitude is a generally appropriate rate of ascent.
Usually after 2700m, not to climb more than 400m from the previous night’s sleeping altitude would be a reasonable recommendation. Climbing high ...
4
As I noted in my answer to that question, plasticene or stress balls work.
Also, you can use guitarist's finger exercisers
I do like your idea of using less fingers for carrying bags etc.
3
Just keep climbing-is sort of the right answer, but you need to fit it in to your training and recovery schedule.
I kept climbing all the way through training for various marathons. My solution was to do a climb a week in place of one of my small to medium sized runs.
If this happened to be right after a really long run then I might focus more on ...
3
Find an area with a large stairway (football field bleachers work great), then power-walk/run up and down them while taking a break every few runs. Keep doing this until the trip, while increasing the number of "laps" when you think you're improving.
When it starts becoming easier, pack up your backpack with your gear or simulate the weight with something ...
3
I would recommend an American Alpine Institute mountaineering course.
For a mountain like Elbrus, you are probably most interested in their 3-Day Glacier Skills and Crevasse Rescue course, but the Alpinism Intro and Baker Skills and Climbs might also be appropriate.
AAI guides are top-notch, and although I have not personally taken this course a friend of ...
2
I have heard that RMI (one of the places you listed) is great as well as Alpine Assents, but neither are very formal in the guide education area. Try taking a look at National Outdoor Leadership School. They have a pretty well setup program and work with some schools to get you credit (if you need it) They are pretty thorough and offer a 17 day course and a ...
2
You're framing this as a question of "how much will this hurt my climbing"? I wonder if you could use this down time from actual climbing as a chance to focus more on pure climbing specific strength training, and possibly come out of the whole process a stronger climber.
Something I tend to do is all but quit route climbing in the winter, and take it up ...
2
I was lucky enough to take both dinghy sailing lessons and later cruiser sailing lessons. It's an approach I'd really recommend. Sailing a dinghy will teach you to watch the sails and the wind much more easily than in a cruiser. All the skills you learn in a dinghy will apply to a cruiser (except capsize drill, hopefully). They are also a lot of fun, and ...
1
From the sounds of it, to develop all the skills you are interested in, you are not going to learn them all with a single class. Additionally, it will likely take several years to hone your skills to a point that you can depend on them.
For learning how to harness the wind, it is better to learn on a smaller boat. Something like a sunfish, laser, or a Hobie ...
1
If you have the option, small boats give you the best feel for how sails work and how changes in trim affect the boat and your course, so at least start on a small boat.
Also, taking a few full days will help far more than a bunch of evenings. You develop a feel for sailing over time so for your initial training, intensive is a good thing.
Growing up in ...
1
To deal with low oxygen environments you need more red blood cells. To get more red blood cells you have very few options.
Blood doping
Low pressure chamber treatments
Actually going into higher altitudes on a regular basis (I recommend this one)
Make sure your diet has enough iron to support the red blood cell production. However, iron by itself is ...
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