Reputation
5,679
Next tag badge:
156/100 score
18/20 answers
Badges
13 40
Newest
 Nice Answer
Impact
~160k people reached

23h
comment Which fingers to use in a 2 finger pocket when rock climbing?
Interesting anatomy lesson but I do not understand how it supports your conclusion. "... if you were to grab a deep pocket with your middle and forefinger, there is absolutely nothing you can do to prevent your ring finger from curling ..." Okay, so what? If you use your middle and ring fingers the pinky curls. I seem to be missing the point.
1d
revised Facility to test cold weather gear in London UK
update video link
Feb
4
awarded  Nice Answer
Feb
4
revised Is it ever necessary to double up locking carabiners?
added 1148 characters in body
Feb
4
awarded  Self-Learner
Feb
4
comment Why are eye friction hitches not commonly used in rock climbing?
@Benedikt A just-in-case FYI: there is a "figure 9" knot that is supposed to be easy to untie; I've just never actually seen anybody use one.
Feb
4
comment Why are eye friction hitches not commonly used in rock climbing?
@Chris You can buy them pre-made but bulk cord of the right type can be spliced as well if one has the tools and know-how.
Feb
3
comment How to repair the ripped seam in my leather cowboy boots?
I'm voting to close this question as off-topic because it does not specifically relate to outdoor activities.
Feb
3
comment How to calculate the force (kN) generated by a falling climber onto their protection?
It still won't provide a direct answer to this question but for anyone fascinated by such calculations this software appears to be the best on the market: vrigger.com
Feb
3
comment How to calculate the force (kN) generated by a falling climber onto their protection?
"There is another surprising factor of 2, which is that in the special case where f=0, we get T=2mg, which is a little surprising. You would think that in a factor-zero fall, the rope would just support body weight. But the peak tension is actually more than body weight, because the rope stretches and the person does fall down through some height." Isn't the reason in this equation simply the pulley effect mentioned in the paragraph right before this? "This is because there are two strands pulling down on the pro ..." -- you made it sound like two separate effects. +1 however.
Feb
3
revised What is the difference between “dry rope”, “non-dry rope” and “dry core rope”?
deleted 1 character in body
Feb
3
comment What to do when you run out of rope on a sports climb?
@mattnz I think it is worse than that. If I am remembering my instruction correctly one should never rappel off of soft goods, only hardware, because if while rappelling one strand of rope starts feeding faster than the other the rope can rapidly burn through the sling. I am not qualified to speak authoritatively on this but, again IIRC, my instructor took part in a body recovery that resulted from this malpractice, and that's quite enough to keep me far away from it.
Feb
3
answered Why are eye friction hitches not commonly used in rock climbing?
Feb
2
comment Why are eye friction hitches not commonly used in rock climbing?
@Benedik That's an excellent point. I don't think I've ever seen a figure-9 in the wild however and I am not confident I could check one on sight. Bulin is the same as bowline I am assuming.
Feb
2
comment Why are eye friction hitches not commonly used in rock climbing?
Re: (4) No, that is what I wanted. A lot of experienced climbers use the rope itself as a personal anchor but I was taught the use of a Purcell because it also has use in rope ascension / self-rescue.
Feb
2
awarded  Nice Question
Feb
2
awarded  equipment
Feb
1
revised Why are eye friction hitches not commonly used in rock climbing?
improve accuracy
Feb
1
awarded  Suffrage
Feb
1
comment Why do big wall harnesses have two belay loops?
@Dakatine firstascent.co.uk/climb/ocun-quattro-tech-harness.html apparently