Reputation
6,164
Next tag badge:
167/100 score
18/20 answers
Badges
16 43
Newest
 Nice Answer
Impact
~183k people reached

Feb
10
comment How to safely train for and grip pockets?
Ah, Jan Hojer. Seen that before, and it's still amazing especially because he is a big guy. I shall now have to look for more training photos and videos myself, but I am not certainly how useful it is to look at the strongest in the world. They are wonderful outliers that can get away with things that would crush a mortal like me.
Feb
10
comment Which fingers to use in a 2 finger pocket when rock climbing?
@lejonet Alright.
Feb
10
comment How to safely train for and grip pockets?
Interesting. Then I hope it is possible for me to train my hands to stay in the less separated position naturally, as it seems safer. I haven't put much effort into changing it as I've been avoiding pockets as explained. Thank you.
Feb
10
comment Which fingers to use in a 2 finger pocket when rock climbing?
@lejonet Since it seems you have some familiarity with the subject would you please consider my own question here?: (10871)
Feb
10
comment How to safely train for and grip pockets?
I am sincerely appreciative of you taking the time to answer my question. Please forgive the cross-examination; I am only trying to be as careful as possible. Do you mean relaxed mentally or physiologically? If I mentally relax and just pull my fingers drop into the lower position shown in i.stack.imgur.com/J1CCl.jpg (less the thumb lock), which I am trying to avoid as I presently believe it increases the chance of injury. Keeping them from dropping requires effort. Is that effort good if it keeps the fingers in a more relaxed position?
Feb
10
comment How to safely train for and grip pockets?
"You should attempt to keep the fingers not being trained, loose (not crimped and not clenched)." -- (1) Do you have a reference for that? (2) That seems even harder! How do you relax fingers that are not fully independent? As soon as I pull hard they start moving on their own. :-(
Feb
10
comment Which fingers to use in a 2 finger pocket when rock climbing?
@lejonet Oh, that's why it looked funny! :-S Since there are no muscles in the fingers this should have been obvious but I just brushed over it and kept reading.
Feb
10
comment How to safely train for and grip pockets?
You say "stretch after." Why after and not before? One of the changes I have made is to perform a few specific hand stretches before climbing or training, as I am under the impression that this will help. I was warmed up but not fatigued at the time of the injury, but I had not stretched my hands. By "100%" I meant trying as hard as I could, not being casual about it. I now wonder how the person who told me to train at "60-70%" meant it.
Feb
10
comment How to safely train for and grip pockets?
"unfortunately" -- not for you :-)
Feb
10
comment Making a Make-Shift harness from Tape-Slings
Could you provide a picture of that, please?
Feb
10
comment How to safely train for and grip pockets?
@Liam You raise a very good point, and I probably will visit someone if I can find anyone I trust to understand these things. (A family member went to a local hand specialist for something else and returned thoroughly unimpressed.) Here I am looking for general guidelines. E.g. (1)Do most good climbers hold back the dropped fingers as in the penultimate image, or do they flex them down as in the last one? (2)Has anyone else here suffered from this, or anything else related to splitting fingers? (3)Is hangboarding at near 100% foolish? etc.
Feb
10
revised How to safely train for and grip pockets?
clarify
Feb
10
revised How to safely train for and grip pockets?
added 4 characters in body
Feb
10
asked How to safely train for and grip pockets?
Feb
10
comment Which fingers to use in a 2 finger pocket when rock climbing?
@Rory How does that help?
Feb
10
revised Climbing with a much lighter partner?
added 3 characters in body
Feb
10
comment Which fingers to use in a 2 finger pocket when rock climbing?
Interesting anatomy lesson but I do not understand how it supports your conclusion. "... if you were to grab a deep pocket with your middle and forefinger, there is absolutely nothing you can do to prevent your ring finger from curling ..." Okay, so what? If you use your middle and ring fingers the pinky curls. I seem to be missing the point.
Feb
9
revised Facility to test cold weather gear in London UK
update video link
Feb
4
awarded  Nice Answer
Feb
4
revised Is it ever necessary to double up locking carabiners?
added 1148 characters in body