4,704 reputation
934
bio website
location
age
visits member for 2 years, 9 months
seen 7 hours ago

Jun
17
comment “Used” top rope when bouldering
Thanks for the reference. You've got my +1.
Jun
16
comment “Used” top rope when bouldering
Seeing rope worn out from repeated short falls, without apparent extreme abrasion, leads me to think that due to the concentration of load in a bent rope (the purpose of my including the second quote) does in fact push some fibers past an elastic limit and slowly degrade the rope. I'm certainly not claiming to be an expert on this and I'd love to know if you have other information or theories.
Jun
16
comment “Used” top rope when bouldering
@BenCrowell Okay, that's a valid criticism and I appreciate you taking the time to make it. Could you provide a link to Aging Rope? I know that nylon does very well in flex cycle testing, losing very little strength over thousands of cycles (unlike aramids), and I also know that load cycling (presumably below the elastic limit) without a bend also has little apparent affect on strength. Nevertheless the ropes do wear out. Do you assert that it is entirely a matter of abrasion? Direct infiltration? (continued)
Jun
16
revised Does “Cow Tipping” hurt the cow?
edited tags
Jun
16
comment Does “Cow Tipping” hurt the cow?
Cow tipping doesn't actually exist. It's a joke.
Jun
16
answered How high to climb before clipping on a sport climb?
Jun
16
revised “Used” top rope when bouldering
edited tags
Jun
16
revised Sunblock for clothing-optional camping
edited tags
Jun
16
awarded  Custodian
Jun
16
revised Why does sunscreen not work all day?
added 4 characters in body; edited tags
Jun
16
reviewed Close Chacos: Toe strap or no toe strap?
Jun
16
comment “Used” top rope when bouldering
@BenCrowell Please see my addendum. I mean you no disrespect, but as stated there I believe the subject matter warrants fastidious scrutiny.
Jun
16
revised “Used” top rope when bouldering
added 2979 characters in body
Jun
16
revised Ideal and Minimal Rope Diameter for Lead Climbing
repair broken links
Jun
16
revised When should I retire my rope
added 2656 characters in body
Jun
16
comment When should I retire my rope
@BenCrowell I agree with (my understanding of) what you wrote. All I meant to communicate is that a short factor-1 fall puts (almost*) as much stress on the rope as a long factor-1 fall, just over a shorter area, which I think is what you just said, but more clearly. (* Almost, because there are common energy absorbing elements in the system besides the rope that do not change with the length of fall, therefore a very short factor-2 fall will not reach as high a peak force as a full-rope-length factor-2 fall, even momentarily, and the impulse is much longer as well.)
Jun
15
answered How do you stop blood-flow from a leech bite?
Jun
15
comment Resoling climbing shoes yourself
No experience, but this seems like the sort of thing on which you'd spend more in the processing of learning to do it right than you would having it done professionally, even repeatedly.
Jun
15
revised “Used” top rope when bouldering
added 48 characters in body
Jun
15
revised “Used” top rope when bouldering
added 48 characters in body