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Jun
16
answered How high to climb before clipping on a sport climb?
Jun
16
revised “Used” top rope when bouldering
edited tags
Jun
16
revised Sunblock for clothing-optional camping
edited tags
Jun
16
awarded  Custodian
Jun
16
revised Why does sunscreen not work all day?
added 4 characters in body; edited tags
Jun
16
reviewed Close Chacos: Toe strap or no toe strap?
Jun
16
comment “Used” top rope when bouldering
@BenCrowell Please see my addendum. I mean you no disrespect, but as stated there I believe the subject matter warrants fastidious scrutiny.
Jun
16
revised “Used” top rope when bouldering
added 2979 characters in body
Jun
16
revised Ideal and Minimal Rope Diameter for Lead Climbing
repair broken links
Jun
16
revised When should I retire my rope
added 2656 characters in body
Jun
16
comment When should I retire my rope
@BenCrowell I agree with (my understanding of) what you wrote. All I meant to communicate is that a short factor-1 fall puts (almost*) as much stress on the rope as a long factor-1 fall, just over a shorter area, which I think is what you just said, but more clearly. (* Almost, because there are common energy absorbing elements in the system besides the rope that do not change with the length of fall, therefore a very short factor-2 fall will not reach as high a peak force as a full-rope-length factor-2 fall, even momentarily, and the impulse is much longer as well.)
Jun
15
answered How do you stop blood-flow from a leech bite?
Jun
15
comment Resoling climbing shoes yourself
No experience, but this seems like the sort of thing on which you'd spend more in the processing of learning to do it right than you would having it done professionally, even repeatedly.
Jun
15
revised “Used” top rope when bouldering
added 48 characters in body
Jun
15
revised “Used” top rope when bouldering
added 48 characters in body
Jun
15
comment “Used” top rope when bouldering
@OutlawLemur Yes, so long as the rope is still serviceable according to the Beal guidelines. In a top-rope (slingshot) setup a fat, fuzzy rope will make it a little harder on the belayer, but not much else. For lead the same rope will cause much greater rope drag making it really hard on the leader unless the pitch is short, straight, and vertical. Of course if you mean by "only for comfort" that you don't intend to weight the rope, and is serves only as a true safety line, then I wouldn't anticipate much wear on the rope anyway.
Jun
14
revised “Used” top rope when bouldering
added 11 characters in body
Jun
14
comment “Used” top rope when bouldering
Ben, as a friendly heads-up I just posted an opposing answer. Please read it and rebut as appropriate.
Jun
14
answered “Used” top rope when bouldering
Jun
14
comment When should I retire my rope
@BenCrowell Indeed, and I didn't mean to imply otherwise. I meant that comment a a parenthetical, and merely that gym falls can still put significant stress on a rope. I think there is a tendency to look at a short wall and figure it's small stuff and won't really stress your equipment, when in fact the forces can be quite high and they get concentrated on a short section of rope near the ends. Do you agree with that? Perhaps this answer wasn't the best place for this.