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Feb
2
comment Why are eye friction hitches not commonly used in rock climbing?
@Benedik That's an excellent point. I don't think I've ever seen a figure-9 in the wild however and I am not confident I could check one on sight. Bulin is the same as bowline I am assuming.
Feb
2
comment Why are eye friction hitches not commonly used in rock climbing?
Re: (4) No, that is what I wanted. A lot of experienced climbers use the rope itself as a personal anchor but I was taught the use of a Purcell because it also has use in rope ascension / self-rescue.
Feb
1
comment Why do big wall harnesses have two belay loops?
@Dakatine firstascent.co.uk/climb/ocun-quattro-tech-harness.html apparently
Feb
1
comment Why are eye friction hitches not commonly used in rock climbing?
Thanks for your answer. A few more questions if you please: (1) Would you ask your arborist friend what he uses and why? (fixed tail, split tail, whatever.) (2) Do you have a reference for the use of a single ended Prusik as you describe? I cannot think of a reason for it to fail but at the same time I like to know that things are well tested before using them myself. (3) The "Englaender-Prusik" sounds like what I know as an autoblock; is it? (4) What do you use as a personal anchor?
Feb
1
comment Is it ever necessary to double up locking carabiners?
I think perhaps I misunderstood your point, or viewpoint. I have top-roped off of O&O non-locking 'biners, and I feel OK about that, but I would not use a single locking carabiner in their place. I do feel that O&O lockers is still more secure, and prefer that setup for something I don't have eyes on, e.g. top-rope anchor. For something I do have eyes on I feel OK with a single beefy locker. I would like to lift my down-vote but I cannot unless someone edits your post and my vote is now locked.
Feb
1
comment Is it ever necessary to double up locking carabiners?
But two non-locking O&O versus one locking carabiner really isn't the question at hand. Rather, it is if a single locking carabiner always enough, and the answer is no, it is not, IMHO. You wrote "A closed biner has per norm a fully sufficient strength for any force that can be generated in climbing." This is only true ideally, not pragmatically, because of things like crossloading, nose-hooking, inward gate failures, etc. Yes, one can and should try to avoid these things but sometimes an extra level of security is prudent, and from my references I am not the only one to think this.
Feb
1
comment Is it ever necessary to double up locking carabiners?
Isn't that accidental scenario one of the reasons for opposite-and-opposed carabiners in the first place? Nevertheless it wouldn't necessarily have to be rock; I suppose the rope getting bound up in a funny way could produce inward pressure, kind of like back-clipping. If you could be sure that a carabiner would never be loaded oddly or pressed against anything then might not one use a single non-locking carabiner? That being recognized as unsafe implies that odd loadings should be provided for. (continued)
Feb
1
comment What to do if the second seems stuck and absolutely no communication is possible?
@BenCrowell I would love to hear the specifics of that harrowing experience.
Feb
1
comment Why are these acceptable and safe anchors?
@Felix Good point! If someone has been top-roping and lowering off the ring directly all bets are off.
Feb
1
comment Why do Sandpipers sometimes hop on one leg?
Do you have any references for this statement?
Feb
1
comment Is it ever necessary to double up locking carabiners?
Locking carabiners are not nearly as secure as you seem to think. The inward gate strength of standard sport-grade lockers a fraction of the already reduced crossload strength, meaning they can quite plausibly be forced open from pressure against a rock, and then you are down to the open gate rating at best. Sorry, but -1 from me. :-(
Feb
1
comment Climbing with one arm: any advice on belay systems for beginners (who can only use one arm)?
For what it's worth I believe the GriGri is always marketed as an assisted-locking belay device, acknowledging the possibility of failure to auto-lock. Some people do use a GriGri for rope soloing but the practice is generally discouraged from what I can tell, even in the already fringe rope soloing circles. I don't have a better suggestion but I feel that this risk should at least be acknowledged in your answer.
Feb
1
comment Is it ever necessary to double up locking carabiners?
@DudeOnRock Thank you. :-)
Jan
31
comment What is the correct way to attach a rope to a harness with carabiners?
Possible duplicate: (4052)
Jan
31
comment What is the correct way to attach a rope to a harness with carabiners?
@ShemSeger It is the requirement of the International Federation of Sport Climbing, among others. Please see (10755)
Jan
31
comment What is the correct way to attach a rope to a harness with carabiners?
Related: (10750)
Dec
18
comment How to choose a fire steel and use it most effectively?
Thanks for the idea. I'll have to try that. If you have the time and facility I would love to see a video demonstration of these methods.
Nov
21
comment Drinking alcohol as the last choice in survival situation
Strongly related and preexisting question on Biology.SE: (31616)
Nov
20
comment How long does water need to be boiled for to kill all bacteria / viruses?
Also related: (191)
Nov
20
comment water knot vs figure 8 follow through vs X for rock climbing anchor - What is easiest to untie?
-1 for implicitly recommending a method that results in tri-axial loading. I will reverse my vote if you replace the image with one of the corrected methods.