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Feb
1
comment Is it ever necessary to double up locking carabiners?
But two non-locking O&O versus one locking carabiner really isn't the question at hand. Rather, it is if a single locking carabiner always enough, and the answer is no, it is not, IMHO. You wrote "A closed biner has per norm a fully sufficient strength for any force that can be generated in climbing." This is only true ideally, not pragmatically, because of things like crossloading, nose-hooking, inward gate failures, etc. Yes, one can and should try to avoid these things but sometimes an extra level of security is prudent, and from my references I am not the only one to think this.
Feb
1
comment Is it ever necessary to double up locking carabiners?
Isn't that accidental scenario one of the reasons for opposite-and-opposed carabiners in the first place? Nevertheless it wouldn't necessarily have to be rock; I suppose the rope getting bound up in a funny way could produce inward pressure, kind of like back-clipping. If you could be sure that a carabiner would never be loaded oddly or pressed against anything then might not one use a single non-locking carabiner? That being recognized as unsafe implies that odd loadings should be provided for. (continued)
Feb
1
comment What to do if the second seems stuck and absolutely no communication is possible?
@BenCrowell I would love to hear the specifics of that harrowing experience.
Feb
1
comment Why are these acceptable and safe anchors?
@Felix Good point! If someone has been top-roping and lowering off the ring directly all bets are off.
Feb
1
comment Why do Sandpipers sometimes hop on one leg?
Do you have any references for this statement?
Feb
1
comment Is it ever necessary to double up locking carabiners?
Locking carabiners are not nearly as secure as you seem to think. The inward gate strength of standard sport-grade lockers a fraction of the already reduced crossload strength, meaning they can quite plausibly be forced open from pressure against a rock, and then you are down to the open gate rating at best. Sorry, but -1 from me. :-(
Feb
1
comment Climbing with one arm: any advice on belay systems for beginners (who can only use one arm)?
For what it's worth I believe the GriGri is always marketed as an assisted-locking belay device, acknowledging the possibility of failure to auto-lock. Some people do use a GriGri for rope soloing but the practice is generally discouraged from what I can tell, even in the already fringe rope soloing circles. I don't have a better suggestion but I feel that this risk should at least be acknowledged in your answer.
Feb
1
comment Is it ever necessary to double up locking carabiners?
@DudeOnRock Thank you. :-)
Jan
31
comment What is the correct way to attach a rope to a harness with carabiners?
Possible duplicate: (4052)
Jan
31
comment What is the correct way to attach a rope to a harness with carabiners?
@ShemSeger It is the requirement of the International Federation of Sport Climbing, among others. Please see (10755)
Jan
31
comment What is the correct way to attach a rope to a harness with carabiners?
Related: (10750)
Dec
18
comment How to choose a fire steel and use it most effectively?
Thanks for the idea. I'll have to try that. If you have the time and facility I would love to see a video demonstration of these methods.
Nov
21
comment Drinking alcohol as the last choice in survival situation
Strongly related and preexisting question on Biology.SE: (31616)
Nov
20
comment How long does water need to be boiled for to kill all bacteria / viruses?
Also related: (191)
Nov
20
comment water knot vs figure 8 follow through vs X for rock climbing anchor - What is easiest to untie?
-1 for implicitly recommending a method that results in tri-axial loading. I will reverse my vote if you replace the image with one of the corrected methods.
Nov
20
comment What's the minimum diameter cord to use when climbing a rope using a prusik
@Walter I suspect that you will run into other practical problems first, such as having strong enough Prusik cord that grips the slick Amsteel rope. Fall-arrest devices are usually made for thick industrial rope but there may be specialized equipment available that suits your needs. Consider posting a Question on this subject so that the wider experience of the community may help you find a solution for your specific situation.
Nov
20
comment What's the minimum diameter cord to use when climbing a rope using a prusik
@Walter Your comment appears to have been truncated. The main rope over which the friction hitch is sliding is usually not at risk of failure -- I have never read about a case where it was the element that failed at least. However I suppose it may be possible to produce a failure: suppose the Prusik cord is an aramid with a high decomposition temperature and the main line is Dyneema with a low melting temperature; hypothetically if the hitch slides a long way and then catches maybe it could accumulate enough heat to melt the Dyneema. (continued)
Nov
9
comment Wood versus plastic trail signs?
@OlinLathrop I am sorry to disappoint but the photos are not mine. I simply found them in a Google Image Search and posting them here seemed to me within fair use. :-/
Sep
18
comment What to do when you run out of rope on a sports climb?
This is the first time I have seen this method and I like it! However I have a concern: a single Prusik is not usually considered adequate for fall-arrest, and Prusik knots can fuse to the rope after a fall which could complicate things significantly. Perhaps that is not a problem here if the dynamic rope is the primary energy dissipator rather than the slipping Prusik?
Aug
26
comment When will a rattlesnake strike?
No answer because I have no personal experience (thankfully!) but I've heard an old-timer swear by carrying a revolver loaded with tiny shotgun cartridges when deep in rattler country, specifically to dispatch snakes. Apparently there can be so many snakes you risk stepping on an unseen one while avoiding the one you do see, and dispatch is preferable? Obviously this is not a solution that is applicable everywhere.