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Nov
20
comment How long does water need to be boiled for to kill all bacteria / viruses?
Also related: (191)
Nov
20
comment water knot vs figure 8 follow through vs X for rock climbing anchor - What is easiest to untie?
-1 for implicitly recommending a method that results in tri-axial loading. I will reverse my vote if you replace the image with one of the corrected methods.
Nov
20
comment What's the minimum diameter cord to use when climbing a rope using a prusik
@Walter I suspect that you will run into other practical problems first, such as having strong enough Prusik cord that grips the slick Amsteel rope. Fall-arrest devices are usually made for thick industrial rope but there may be specialized equipment available that suits your needs. Consider posting a Question on this subject so that the wider experience of the community may help you find a solution for your specific situation.
Nov
20
comment What's the minimum diameter cord to use when climbing a rope using a prusik
@Walter Your comment appears to have been truncated. The main rope over which the friction hitch is sliding is usually not at risk of failure -- I have never read about a case where it was the element that failed at least. However I suppose it may be possible to produce a failure: suppose the Prusik cord is an aramid with a high decomposition temperature and the main line is Dyneema with a low melting temperature; hypothetically if the hitch slides a long way and then catches maybe it could accumulate enough heat to melt the Dyneema. (continued)
Nov
9
comment Wood versus plastic trail signs?
@OlinLathrop I am sorry to disappoint but the photos are not mine. I simply found them in a Google Image Search and posting them here seemed to me within fair use. :-/
Sep
18
comment What to do when you run out of rope on a sports climb?
This is the first time I have seen this method and I like it! However I have a concern: a single Prusik is not usually considered adequate for fall-arrest, and Prusik knots can fuse to the rope after a fall which could complicate things significantly. Perhaps that is not a problem here if the dynamic rope is the primary energy dissipator rather than the slipping Prusik?
Aug
26
comment When will a rattlesnake strike?
No answer because I have no personal experience (thankfully!) but I've heard an old-timer swear by carrying a revolver loaded with tiny shotgun cartridges when deep in rattler country, specifically to dispatch snakes. Apparently there can be so many snakes you risk stepping on an unseen one while avoiding the one you do see, and dispatch is preferable? Obviously this is not a solution that is applicable everywhere.
May
26
comment Are manual double-back buckles on harnesses considered obsolete?
That makes more sense. A number of leg loops are being made completely without buckles now (just elastic or some kind of tensioner) so it does not surprise me if the ones with buckles are (semi?)captive as apparently they think these don't need to be openable. I'll keep this in mind the next time I am shopping for a harness.
May
22
comment Are manual double-back buckles on harnesses considered obsolete?
You can typically "completely open" speed buckles as well. On what brands have you run into captive ones?
Apr
16
comment Is there a more practical type of cord to carry than “550 paracord”?
UHMWPE (Dyneema/Spectra) is great stuff, if you keep it away from heat, but know that to get maximum strength you will need to "sleeve" it in a hollow braid where you knot it.
Mar
18
comment What does it mean to cross load a carabiner?
Thanks for the edit, @Pepi
Dec
21
comment Using a Girth Hitch in Alpine Draws
That is the reason I was given before. Why don't you edit your answer to describe that instead and include a reference to the Petzl manual?
Dec
11
comment Using a Girth Hitch in Alpine Draws
Welcome to the site and thank you for your answer. However can you provide additional support for this statement? I was given a different explanation for why the top carabiner in a quickdraw does/should not have a rubber keeper.
Dec
2
comment What this instrument is used for?
That's new to me. +1
Nov
15
comment Climbing with a much lighter partner?
@Glenn I was mistaken. The image comes from mountaineeringmethodology.com/mistakes-when-belaying -- I shall include this in an edit.
Nov
15
comment Climbing with a much lighter partner?
@Glenn You're right. That isn't my picture however, it's Petzl's. I link the page it came from.
Oct
28
comment How to wash a foam helmet?
How old is old? Foam helmets are supposed to be replaced after five years apparently.
Oct
16
comment Methods for taping injured wrists
@Liam My answer is primarily about "tape gloves" the question clear includes this subject. "For example: I'm having intermittent wrist pain. How can I supportively tape it, yet not restrict it too much, and also not completely cover the palm." Other answers are welcome! Voting to close.
Oct
2
comment How to take care of climbing hands?
Related: (5157)
Sep
17
comment How to Clean Rock-Climbing Shoes
I haven't tried this but I am somewhat skeptical about it. Certainly freezing in a household freezer will not kill all bacteria; freezing does not sterilize water for example. Perhaps the primary odor-causing ones are not freeze resistant? I also worry that freezing would keep them from drying properly. Not a problem if you rotate a number of pairs of shoes but fairly important if you climb often in the same pair. Could you give more details of your personal experience with this method?