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Jan
11
comment What's the minimum diameter cord to use when climbing a rope using a prusik
@AM_Hawk Thanks for the clarification. I'm glad you weren't suggesting what I thought you were.
Jan
11
comment What's the minimum diameter cord to use when climbing a rope using a prusik
I just noticed that you linked to a 7.5mm Twin rope as an example. So you are describing ascending two strands of rope at once? You should be able to use at least a 6mm Prusik loop in that configuration. I was assuming that you were referring to a single strand of Tech rope, like BlueWater's 7.5mm Escape-Tech.
Jan
11
comment What's the minimum diameter cord to use when climbing a rope using a prusik
@AM_Hawk Personally I would not be comfortable on 5mm Nylon unless there was a back-up attachment to the system. Are you supposing that 5mm Nylon is OK as one's only attachment points?
Jan
11
comment What's the minimum diameter cord to use when climbing a rope using a prusik
@AM_Hawk I guess your answer then is 5mm Prusik cord. Nylon or Tech cord?
Jan
11
comment Using a Girth Hitch in Alpine Draws
For anyone interested, the now-broken first link in my comment above was to this article: QC Lab: Connecting Two Slings Together. The second link is still working, but here is another entry point: QC LAB: Slings and Quickdraws
Jan
11
comment How dangerous is it to fall 3 meters when lead climbing?
+1 especially for explaining why it is a bad idea to clip a bolt as soon as you can barely reach it. I see that way too often.
Jan
11
comment How do climbers retrieve anchored rope?
@BenCrowell That is not strictly true; there are methods for retrievable slings, though they are apparently not commonly used, and some are certainly unsafe.
Jan
11
comment What's the minimum diameter cord to use when climbing a rope using a prusik
I am confused. You seem to be asking for the diameter of the accessory cord used for the Prusik loops themselves, yet AM_Hawk answer, which you Accepted, seems to describe the diameter of the rope you are ascending. Could you please clarify?
Jan
2
comment Should you pop a blister?
That nail thing sounds nasty. Was the damage down at the base of the nail or just in the middle of the nail plate?
Jan
2
comment Flashlight or headlamp for night hiking?
"... since the light is coming from close to the same direction you are looking from, you don't get much help from shadows to get 3D cues. Everything looks 'flat'." Great point. It does help you see eye shine better however, for what that's worth.
Jan
2
comment Flashlight or headlamp for night hiking?
Good summary. Although narrow-beam headlamps are available they may be uncomfortable to use because you have to move your entire head when you want to look around instead of just your eyes; I find pointing a flashlight where I am looking much more intuitive. Therefore I suggest using the flood-headlamp, throw-flashlight combination.
Dec
21
comment How do I tie a figure of 8 knot
@Andrew That's a figure-8 on a bight. It cannot be used to tie the rope to a closed loop (on a harness) which is why the follow through or retrace is used.
Dec
21
comment Cramping Fingers
I'm glad to hear you're doing better. Have fun climbing!
Dec
19
comment How do I tie a figure of 8 knot
I feel this is already better addressed in other places such as Animated Knots by Grog. (Note there the extra step I mentioned.) I also feel that outside of animations knots are better learned in person. Nevertheless I may post an image if I can find one that is not copyrighted.
Dec
18
comment How do I tie a figure of 8 knot
I agree with @AM_Hawk and also in the last photo the upper two loops are not lying well. You need to pass the running end between the existing strand and the loop either at the beginning or at the end (the lower or upper loop) if you want a perfectly dressed knot.
Dec
17
comment Cramping Fingers
Has this improved for you? How are you doing?
Dec
11
comment How to warm up your cold toes and fingers?
"Hold your arms down by your side with your hands extended sideways at 90 degree angles to your arms. Vigorously shrug up and down rapidly. (Weird - but works wonders)" -- When I was shown this one I thought I was being put on, but it actually works.
Nov
2
comment What is a typical elongation of a dynamic climbing rope?
Good commentary. +1 One point: elasticity and peak impact force are not directly correlated (inversely); you can find ropes that have moderate stretch yet have a "soft catch." I presume this is done by having a flatter force curve. Also, you might consider adding something about a dynamic belay as it is very relevant.
Sep
27
comment Please Explain Rock Climbing Grades
Nice writeup. One thing: I believe the YDS originally topped at 5.9. Would you check your sources?
Aug
28
comment FiveFingers or hiking boots?
+1 for personal experience rather than speculation.