2,504 reputation
539
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location San Francisco, CA
age
visits member for 1 year, 9 months
seen 11 hours ago

When I don't code, I climb, cook, or cuddle my wife.


Oct
4
revised How dangerous is it to fall 3 meters when lead climbing?
minor additions
Oct
4
revised Where can you find an online elevation profile of Tahoe Rim Trail?
additional minor changes
Oct
4
answered Where can you find an online elevation profile of Tahoe Rim Trail?
Oct
4
reviewed No Action Needed Why do we need to pee more than usual out in cold weather?
Oct
3
revised What is the main purpose of the foam inside a self-inflating mat?
edited tags
Oct
3
revised How does cam strength change with the retraction angle?
added 190 characters in body
Oct
2
revised How does cam strength change with the retraction angle?
deleted 1 characters in body
Oct
2
comment How does cam strength change with the retraction angle?
@Felix: Good question! I would refer to a tipped out cam as fully retracted, so I guess retraction?
Oct
2
accepted Toproping with two ropes joined by a double fisherman's
Oct
2
answered How dangerous is it to fall 3 meters when lead climbing?
Oct
2
revised How does cam strength change with the retraction angle?
added 118 characters in body
Oct
2
answered How does cam strength change with the retraction angle?
Sep
28
reviewed Leave Open How to realize/judge/assume if one has now fully acclimatized?
Sep
28
reviewed No Action Needed Can heartwood be used for fire?
Sep
28
reviewed Approve suggested edit on How to realize/judge/assume if one has now fully acclimatized?
Sep
28
reviewed Approve suggested edit on Can heartwood be used for fire?
Sep
28
comment Knot for Joining the ropes of different thicknesses
Good point, by "sensible" I mean two ropes rated for climbing (singles, doubles or twins). Look at tests 15 and 17 for 16 data-points with ropes of different diameter. I don't personally believe there is a right way or a wrong way to tie the EDK (after the first inversion the small rope would have to roll over the big rope, and the knot gets tighter with every inversion.) As long it is dressed properly and you have enough tail, I haven't heard of any accidents resulting in its use, but I guess all of this is mute, since the OP didn't ask about rappelling. Should we continue this in chat?
Sep
27
comment Knot for Joining the ropes of different thicknesses
@BenCrowell: For activities related to rappelling (where the profile of the knot matters) I do advocate using the overhand with ropes that are commonly used for climbing. There is an interesting blog article based on some test-data the author linked to at the end of the article. I haven't heard of anything going wrong with ropes that have sensible differences in diameter, but if you know of any incidences or testing that show the contrary, please share!
Sep
24
reviewed Approve suggested edit on Could I have a postmortem on this suburban raccoon encounter?
Sep
22
reviewed No Action Needed Knot for Joining the ropes of different thicknesses