2,424 reputation
438
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location San Francisco, CA
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visits member for 1 year, 8 months
seen 2 hours ago

When I don't code, I climb, cook, or cuddle my wife.


Oct
2
revised How does cam strength change with the retraction angle?
added 118 characters in body
Oct
2
answered How does cam strength change with the retraction angle?
Sep
28
reviewed Leave Open How to realize/judge/assume if one has now fully acclimatized?
Sep
28
reviewed No Action Needed Can heartwood be used for fire?
Sep
28
reviewed Approve suggested edit on How to realize/judge/assume if one has now fully acclimatized?
Sep
28
reviewed Approve suggested edit on Can heartwood be used for fire?
Sep
28
comment Knot for Joining the ropes of different thicknesses
Good point, by "sensible" I mean two ropes rated for climbing (singles, doubles or twins). Look at tests 15 and 17 for 16 data-points with ropes of different diameter. I don't personally believe there is a right way or a wrong way to tie the EDK (after the first inversion the small rope would have to roll over the big rope, and the knot gets tighter with every inversion.) As long it is dressed properly and you have enough tail, I haven't heard of any accidents resulting in its use, but I guess all of this is mute, since the OP didn't ask about rappelling. Should we continue this in chat?
Sep
27
comment Knot for Joining the ropes of different thicknesses
@BenCrowell: For activities related to rappelling (where the profile of the knot matters) I do advocate using the overhand with ropes that are commonly used for climbing. There is an interesting blog article based on some test-data the author linked to at the end of the article. I haven't heard of anything going wrong with ropes that have sensible differences in diameter, but if you know of any incidences or testing that show the contrary, please share!
Sep
24
reviewed Approve suggested edit on Could I have a postmortem on this suburban raccoon encounter?
Sep
22
reviewed No Action Needed Knot for Joining the ropes of different thicknesses
Sep
21
answered Knot for Joining the ropes of different thicknesses
Sep
18
reviewed Reviewed Scafell Pike ascent
Sep
18
reviewed Reviewed For fording cold rivers, is there any special clothing (as opposed to makeshift bags or tightly connected raintrousers) to stay dry and warm?
Sep
16
accepted To stuff or not to stuff (the rain-fly of a tent)
Sep
16
accepted Lacing materials for huaraches
Sep
15
reviewed Reviewed Speed hiking how do I to calculate it?
Sep
15
comment Speed hiking how do I to calculate it?
Welcome kohokid! I am not quite sure what your question is, could you go into more detail?
Sep
13
revised Carry a larger water bottle or a smaller water bottle for backpacking?
edited body
Sep
13
answered Carry a larger water bottle or a smaller water bottle for backpacking?
Sep
13
answered What's the difference between Sport Climbing and Traditional Climbing