2,534 reputation
639
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location San Francisco, CA
age
visits member for 1 year, 10 months
seen 2 days ago

When I don't code, I climb, cook, or cuddle my wife.


Aug
18
comment How to use all the fuel in a bottle with a MSR Whisperlite Internationale?
This would be my guess as well. Sometimes the white fuel line curls upwards when the stove is stuffed in your pack. Just bend it back so it looks like in the picture nivag posted.
Apr
28
comment How can I contact emergency services in the US via the internet?
You can use google voice through gmail without the need to use your cell phone.
Nov
23
comment What dried vegetarian foods have the highest ratio of calories to volume?
@BenCrowell: I don't consider vegetable oil a food, to me it is a food ingredient. Also, since oils don't dehydrate well, an ingredient that I avoid in large quantities when choosing what to dehydrate.
Nov
9
comment Avoiding tangles when leading on double ropes
Are you getting your ropes tangled on lead or when you belay the leader/bring up the second?
Nov
4
comment What are the proper precautions/protocols for storing food while car camping in an area with bears?
Since this question asks about food storage while traveling by car and this question asks about food storage while hiking, I think it deserves to stay open.
Nov
1
comment Anchor without cordelette?
A climbing anchor has two areas to which a climber can clip him/herself. In most scenarios the auto-blocking belay device is clipped to the master-point, and the belayer is clipped to the shelve. Clipping to the shelve means taking one strand coming from each piece of protection. For the shelve to be a safe connection point, something has to be clipped to the master-point! Ask someone to show you in person to do this safely. When the second reaches the belay, he/she then clips to the master-point.
Oct
31
comment What exercises should you do before a ski trip to build leg stamina?
Welcome Peyton Fearday! It might be nice if you elaborated a bit on the exercises you suggest. I personally are not familiar with vertimax and box jumps.
Oct
26
comment When climbing should a carabiner ever be clipped to the tie-in loops, and should anything other than a carabiner ever attach to the belay loop?
You can buy harnesses with two belay loops. You should NEVER attach a carabiner to your tie in loops. Carabiners are designed to be loaded on two points only, loading the spine. Unless you use twin or double rope technique, your rope is not redundant, your harness is not, your belay device is not, your belay carabiner is not...
Oct
12
comment Which will keep my food colder longer, draining the melted ice water, or leaving it in the cooler?
Your experiment is flawed. "Cold fridge water" is warmer than water that just changed states from solid to liquid. Since water has a higher heat capacity than air, the fridge water, depending on it's temperature, can quickly melt the ice, even when it is significantly colder than the surrounding air. The higher heat capacity of water is also what can slows down the melting when you don't remove the melt-water. A better experiment would be to actually conduct the experiment the OP proposes, at different ambient temperatures and in containers with different insulating properties.
Oct
2
comment How does cam strength change with the retraction angle?
@Felix: Good question! I would refer to a tipped out cam as fully retracted, so I guess retraction?
Sep
28
comment Knot for Joining the ropes of different thicknesses
Good point, by "sensible" I mean two ropes rated for climbing (singles, doubles or twins). Look at tests 15 and 17 for 16 data-points with ropes of different diameter. I don't personally believe there is a right way or a wrong way to tie the EDK (after the first inversion the small rope would have to roll over the big rope, and the knot gets tighter with every inversion.) As long it is dressed properly and you have enough tail, I haven't heard of any accidents resulting in its use, but I guess all of this is mute, since the OP didn't ask about rappelling. Should we continue this in chat?
Sep
27
comment Knot for Joining the ropes of different thicknesses
@BenCrowell: For activities related to rappelling (where the profile of the knot matters) I do advocate using the overhand with ropes that are commonly used for climbing. There is an interesting blog article based on some test-data the author linked to at the end of the article. I haven't heard of anything going wrong with ropes that have sensible differences in diameter, but if you know of any incidences or testing that show the contrary, please share!
Sep
15
comment Speed hiking how do I to calculate it?
Welcome kohokid! I am not quite sure what your question is, could you go into more detail?
Sep
10
comment Can I use satellite images as hiking maps, how?
If you think you will need to navigate by compass, I would want to use them in conjunction with a map, since satellite imagery is distorted. Do you own a GPS capable of displaying a map? I have had a lot of fun creating custom GPS maps for my garmin with Global Mapper 13 (the process is rather involved, but a great learning experience.)
Sep
8
comment Refillable camping stoves for use in the UK
@DonBranson: Thanks for contributing that, not being able to tell how much fuel I have is one of my frustrations with propane.
Sep
7
comment Clarification sought on the six-inch-cat-hole rule
I have come to prefer "the stick method" over TP when I am below the timber line. I have gone for two weeks using this method exclusively. When done properly I think it is even more hygienic than TP, since you don't touch your business, you don't have to carry anything out, and there is no risk of animals digging it up.
Aug
28
comment FiveFingers or hiking boots?
I have had a very similar experience
Jun
17
comment How can I report an emergency via SMS text message?
It seems like you are answering your own question: In the US it is currently not possible to text 911, if you want to get help via text message, you have to text a fiend/family member. Other ways require special equipment (for example a SPOT device), which you don't want to use. By the way, I have heard (but don't rely on this with your life) that often, even when a regular phone call won't go through, a call to 911 will.
Jun
15
comment Identifying named peaks from the summit of a north-american peak
I really like this idea (+1) and have used your suggested methodology successfully, but decided to accept the other answer, since I have the option to take the app with me on the trail.
Jun
15
comment Identifying named peaks from the summit of a north-american peak
@OlinLathrop: Using a topo is fine when trying to figure out the names of a hand-full of nearby peaks, but is not a very efficient method for identifying bumps at the horizon (I would have to cary maps for areas I am not hiking in,) or for tagging the names of peaks visible in pictures taken from the top.