362 reputation
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age 28
visits member for 1 year, 6 months
seen Jul 18 at 14:22

Jun
17
comment How long is an activated charcoal filter good for after initial use?
How should a filter be dried?
Jun
9
comment How should a climbing rope be cleaned?
For a mild detergent, would a small amount of free & clear laundry detergent, or a small amount of wool wash (such as Nikwax) be suitable?
Jun
3
comment How should a climbing rope be stored?
Can you cite any manufacturer references that specifically say to avoid washing a rope?
Oct
28
comment How do I set a top rope anchor?
What I've learned in my short time climbing is the best way to learn new techniques is to start with a clinic from certified professional instructors, then find someone willing to mentor you.
Oct
28
comment When climbing should a carabiner ever be clipped to the tie-in loops, and should anything other than a carabiner ever attach to the belay loop?
Thanks for the answer, Blake. Don't be discouraged by the downvotes, it sounds like you're intentions for redundancy might in fact be undermining the goal of safety. If it leaves you with questions, ask them here :)
May
1
comment What is the correct way to attach an autoblock to your harness for rappelling?
Just to round out your comments--is a klemheist only for below the belay device as well?
May
1
comment When climbing should a carabiner ever be clipped to the tie-in loops, and should anything other than a carabiner ever attach to the belay loop?
looking back over this I'll break it out to a 2nd question, thanks again
May
1
comment If an autoblock inteferes with a belay device will a fireman belay have any effect?
so the safe answer would be that it could make the fireman's belay less effective. I'm thinking I'll be doing lots of learning on an autobelay in the gym until I'm sure I've got the autoblock down-pat
May
1
comment If an autoblock inteferes with a belay device will a fireman belay have any effect?
definately good advice that I intend to follow, although I trust my friends who take their lives into their own hands I don't necessarily trust their advice to take my life into my own hands :)
May
1
comment What is the correct way to attach an autoblock to your harness for rappelling?
Do leg loops have any standard strength rating? Would there be any concern about them catching a slip/short fall--even though they only need to catch enough weight to apply the brake and not the full weight of the fall?
May
1
comment If an autoblock inteferes with a belay device will a fireman belay have any effect?
...and for the record: until I'm very comfortable/confident with an autoblock I'll only be using them in the gym while practicing, and using a fireman belay outdoors :)
May
1
comment When climbing should a carabiner ever be clipped to the tie-in loops, and should anything other than a carabiner ever attach to the belay loop?
oh, and by "halving", I meant finding the mid-point
May
1
comment When climbing should a carabiner ever be clipped to the tie-in loops, and should anything other than a carabiner ever attach to the belay loop?
Thanks for all the input David, I kept them together as the first two questions influenced the third, and they're all related to "where can I tie what?". Thanks for the book recommendations, too--I'll look into them.
May
1
comment What is the correct way to attach an autoblock to your harness for rappelling?
@DavidR I've seen all three knots mentioned by Ben Crowell called an "autoblock" knot. I think in that sense it's referring to the purpose rather than a specific knot.