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bio website lightandmatter.com
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I live in LA and enjoy day hikes, backpacking, rock climbing, and mountaineering.


Mar
28
awarded  Yearling
Mar
27
comment How do you build a campfire that leaves no trace?
Are you assuming you can obtain firewood without disturbing the environment, e.g., you're car camping and have brought in firewood in the car? If you're in the backcountry, then you're going to have to gather wood, and that's not going to be LNT.
Mar
26
revised How to calculate the force (kN) generated by a falling climber onto their protection?
added 716 characters in body
Mar
26
comment How to calculate the force (kN) generated by a falling climber onto their protection?
The answer seems to suggest that the online calculator implements the analysis given in the WP article. Actually, reading the javascript source code of the calculator shows that it calculates S=(m/m0)fk, where they call S the "shock force," m is the mass of the climber, m0=80 kg, f is the fall factor, and k is 4.5 for a dynamic rope, 9 for a static rope. This is completely different from the WP result. In particular, it doesn't make sense in the case where f=0. This is the case where the rope is simply holding the climber's body weight, and in this case there is not zero tension in the rope.
Mar
25
comment Lowering a climber from above using a belay device in autolocking mode
We had access to the top of the climb by scrambling up the back.
Mar
24
comment Lowering a climber from above using a belay device in autolocking mode
I don't think the BMC video is really relevant here. The question is specifically about an autoblocking device and about lowering. The video shows a non-autoblocking device (looks like an ordinary ATC) and doesn't deal with lowering.
Mar
24
answered Lowering a climber from above using a belay device in autolocking mode
Mar
24
revised Lowering a climber from above using a belay device in autolocking mode
added 133 characters in body
Mar
24
revised Lowering a climber from above using a belay device in autolocking mode
added 133 characters in body
Mar
24
comment Lowering a climber from above using a belay device in autolocking mode
Thanks, that's all very helpful. In my case the reason for belaying from above was that the climb was too long for top-roping with a single rope. I see what you mean about the Munter. I guess the question would be what mode of failure the Munter is supposed to be guarding against. I'll edit the question in order to try to clarify this.
Mar
24
asked Lowering a climber from above using a belay device in autolocking mode
Mar
24
comment Using a synthetic sleeping bag on/under it's limit
You could just wear a lot of clothes to bed, including thick wool long underwear and a wool cap.
Mar
19
awarded  Popular Question
Mar
18
comment Camping with a tarp, what are risks about animals?
I've never camped in any place where there was any issue with small animals or snakes wanting to crawl into my sleeping bag or anything like that. Small-animal nuisances are usually about them wanting your food, and a tent doesn't help with that. Reptiles are normally not very active at night, and most are shy.
Mar
16
comment How do I find known and documented trails for trail running in New England?
Openstreetmap often shows trails that you can't find out about anywhere else online.
Mar
15
accepted Avoiding leaks from stove and fuel bottles?
Mar
15
comment Do polarized sunglasses protect against snow blindess?
The question is asking about snow blindness, which is a specific, severe medical problem. It's not just a matter of having your eyes take time to adjust to lower light levels.
Mar
15
asked Avoiding leaks from stove and fuel bottles?
Mar
12
answered How to decide which tarp size to take?
Mar
11
revised How to top belay 2 climbers at the same time on multi-pitch climb?
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