Reputation
10,005
Next tag badge:
112/100 score
17/20 answers
Badges
25 52
Newest
 Necromancer
Impact
~156k people reached

9m
comment One-sided overhand bend
This answer seems OK except that I wouldn't talk about whether a knot is stronger or weaker than another knot. This reinforces a common misconception about knots, as explained in my answer. The EDK will hold until the rope breaks, as will various other bends.
2d
answered How long of cord do I need to make a three-point cordelette?
2d
comment UV Protection while trekking at 5000m for myopic vision
For a trip where you'll spend a lot of time as high as 5000 m, goggles are probably the best option, because they will also protect your eyes from wind. But my usual solution is photochromatic glasses with cheap removable side shields. You can get a pair of glasses super cheap online from zennioptical.com. I use side shields sold as "sidewear" on amazon by a company called sideshield.com. You can even just use pieces of duct tape on the sides.
2d
comment When will a rattlesnake strike?
Good answer, +1. Rattlers are not aggressive. I've have 3 or 4 encounters, and in all cases the solution was just to detour around it while it continued sunning itself. The thing that does worry me is that I'll walk around a corner and step on one before I see it. Also I've seen both my dogs go running right over snakes on the trail (not rattlesnakes) without even realizing the snake was there. Not much you can do about either of those possibilities, unfortunately.
2d
comment When will a rattlesnake strike?
After you spot a rattlesnake nearby, traditionally the next thing to do is to say, "Dude, hold my beer and watch this."
Aug
24
awarded  Necromancer
Aug
24
awarded  Inquisitive
Aug
23
comment Any reasons not to use 30-year-old ice axe?
You use an ice ax that you know you can't self-arrest with!?!?
Aug
23
comment Learning Anchors - How is single cordelette loop anchor redundant?
I thought I read somewhere recently that the microscopic crack thing was an urban folktale. Might make a good separate question on this site, if it hasn't been asked already. We back up nonlocking carabiners not so much because the carabiner might break as because its gate might open. We back up cams and nuts not because they're made of metal that might break but because the placement might fail.
Aug
23
comment Learning Anchors - How is single cordelette loop anchor redundant?
@DudeOnRock: I see, I think I wasn't understanding what I was seeing in the picture. I thought I was seeing two independent single-length slings. Now that I look at it more carefully, it looks like two double-length slings, one red and one black, each with a sliding x. I've deleted my earlier comment. Now my main criticism is that although it's equalized, it will have a huge amount of extension if either piece of pro fails, resulting in a bad shock to the system. The angle is also wider than I'd like, although maybe he wouldn't actually use such a wide angle in a real anchor.
Aug
23
comment Is rope-soloing inherently dangerous, and if so, why?
This seems like a possible plausible explanation. I also wonder whether it's because the technique involves relying on a friction device.
Aug
23
comment Is rope-soloing inherently dangerous, and if so, why?
@imsodin: Sorry, I didn't write them down. There were a bunch of them. IIRC some of them were not very informative, because the person was found dead, but nobody could tell exactly what had gone wrong.
Aug
23
comment Any reasons not to use 30-year-old ice axe?
You could check whether it needs sharpening: backcountry.com/explore/how-to-sharpen-your-ice-tools
Aug
23
asked Is rope-soloing inherently dangerous, and if so, why?
Aug
22
comment Learning Anchors - How is single cordelette loop anchor redundant?
the cordelette 10kN failure strength is one of the lowest breaking forces in the system I think 6 mm perlon has a single-strand breaking strength of about 7.7 kN (that's the figure I found for a particular brand). Quick googling suggests that this particular type of cord loses very little strength when knotted. If you build a triply redundant anchor, perfectly equalized, with small angles at the master point, then the amount of load needed to break a strand could theoretically be as big as 6 times that number, because there are 6 strands sharing the load equally.
Aug
20
comment Recommended ascents for the improving mountaineer
The negative tone of a lot of the comments surprises me. The OP admits he's inexperienced, so of course the questions he asks are going to demonstrate his lack of experience. He's asking for help, not blame and shame.
Aug
20
revised Recommended ascents for the improving mountaineer
deleted 12 characters in body
Aug
20
revised Recommended ascents for the improving mountaineer
added 10 characters in body
Aug
20
revised Recommended ascents for the improving mountaineer
added 121 characters in body
Aug
20
answered Recommended ascents for the improving mountaineer