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bio website lightandmatter.com
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visits member for 1 year, 7 months
seen 6 hours ago

I live in LA and enjoy day hikes, backpacking, rock climbing, and mountaineering.


21h
revised How to achieve a climbing anchor that can withstand an upward load?
edited body
23h
answered How to achieve a climbing anchor that can withstand an upward load?
23h
comment Trail gun for protection against bears
No, for black bears a gun is not even an appropriate precaution.
23h
comment When should you use gear to climb a tree?
I don't think fear is a reliable guide. People are often afraid of things that aren't significant dangers (mass shootings), and unafraid of things that are dangerous (tailgating on the freeway). Fear tends to go away with familiarity and repetition; danger doesn't. This is why people take avalanche courses and then go out and get killed by avalanches -- familiarity makes them think it's safe.
1d
comment Mountaineering / glacial traverse: rope-up or go it alone?
I've heard that roping everyone together without having a fixed anchor is falling out of fashion Where did you hear this? It sounds pretty impractical to me. Fixed anchors are typically for near-vertical climbing such as YDS class 5. It takes a long time to set up and take down fixed belays.
2d
comment When should you use gear to climb a tree?
Among rock climbers, it's pretty common to hear of people dying in 20-foot (6 meter) falls if they aren't using a rope, neglected to place protection, or climbed high enough so that their protection didn't keep them from decking. I believe these are mostly cases where the person lands on their head or neck, and their neck gets broken. I'm not saying that you can't get killed in a 10-foot fall either.
Oct
22
awarded  Enlightened
Oct
22
awarded  Nice Answer
Oct
21
comment Trail gun for protection against bears
What kind of bears are we talking about? Polar bears? Grizzlies? Black bears? AFAICT the answer is completely different for the different types of bears. In general, this is the bear's natural environment, so if you feel like going there requires you to shoot bears, you're not doing it right. With the possible exception of polar bears, the main solution is food storage, not firearms. For grizzlies, bear spray may be a secondary measure worth considering.
Oct
18
revised Statistics on types and survivability of anchor failures?
added 677 characters in body
Oct
18
revised Statistics on types and survivability of anchor failures?
added 677 characters in body
Oct
18
asked Statistics on types and survivability of anchor failures?
Oct
17
comment Recommended Aconcagua Guide Source?
Interesting question. I'd like to know the answer. I know someone who knows someone who did it completely unsupported, I believe as a group of 2, but that required some serious logistics and planning. Isn't hiring a guide for 10 days going to be pretty expensive, if you're only splitting the cost two ways?
Oct
16
answered How to make DIY ice axe protectors?
Oct
16
comment How to belay on top of a pitch
Like anatolyg, I also misinterpreted the question. This answer is the one that clearly addresses the question, which was actually about lead-belaying on a multipitch climb.
Oct
14
comment How to belay on top of a pitch
@EverythingRightPlace: But still, I don't see the ATC Guide autoblocking. Here's a demonstration video made by the manufacturer: youtube.com/watch?v=KM5c9wlTReo You have to set it up a special way to get the autoblocking feature. When it's set up this way, you can actually have a problem if your second wants to be lowered -- the autoblocking feature won't let you do it unless you do something special to defeat the autoblocking! This only works with an ATC Guide, not a regular ATC. I would still never take my hand off the brake strand, just as I'd never do so with a grigri.
Oct
13
answered How to belay on top of a pitch
Oct
10
comment Leader injured during multipitch trad climb, what to do?
@Val: Sure, but e.g., if you have to rap down five pitches to bail off, then you may need to conserve gear so that you have enough to build all the rap anchors.
Oct
10
comment How do you make a snow shelter?
How do you make sure this is safe? I'd be worried about it collapsing, so that I would suffocate and die. It seems like there would be certain snow conditions that would work, but I'd be uncertain about my ability to judge the suitability of the snow conditions.
Oct
10
comment What clothing or gear should I wear to prevent ticks?
Is there Lyme disease or Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever in your area? If not, then this probably isn't worth worrying so much about.