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14h
comment Protecting Food Supplies While Backpacking
One good option is an ursack: ursack.com . It's a lightweight kevlar bag that is bear-proof and also fairly good against rodents. Hanging bags up in trees is an outdated technique that doesn't work well in areas that have bears habituated to obtaining human food.
14h
revised Protecting Food Supplies While Backpacking
fix typo in title
1d
comment Should you occasionally use locking biners on pieces of protection when using alpine draws?
The video is really good -- convinced me to buy a few. I've seen the thing happen that he demonstrates where the rope slides the screw barrel out, and it's pretty horrifying.
1d
comment Should you occasionally use locking biners on pieces of protection when using alpine draws?
Two pounds is a lot when it's hanging off of your harness or a gear sling.
1d
comment How do I know what size ice axe I should get?
There is no single best length for an ax, even for a particular person. A long one is good for walking in cane position on a relatively low-angle slope. As the slope gets steeper and you start getting into something more like ice climbing, you want a shorter ax or technical ice tools. Lengths of axes don't really correlate much with the person's size. It's more about what activity you're going to be doing.
1d
comment What clothing would be suitable for hiking and camping in 0°C?
Is the waterproof stuff because you think there's a chance of rain, or just for wind protection? In general, your proposed clothing layers sound all right to me for a front-country day hike, but since you're camping, they sound a little inadequate unless you're willing to huddle in your sleeping bag all evening and all morning. I would add a wool base layer (I have a smartwool one that I love) and a down jacket of some kind.
1d
comment Should you occasionally use locking biners on pieces of protection when using alpine draws?
Also, I think the concern about non-rigid draws is overblown. Once the rope is through the carabiner, the rope itself prevents the draw from twisting. In a way, a non-rigid draw may be better, because you can choose which way to flip the bottom biner, positioning it so that the rope pulls against the spine. I'm not much of a sport climber, but I had imagined that the reason for the rigid quickdraws was that their rigidity would make them easy to place quickly.
1d
answered Should you occasionally use locking biners on pieces of protection when using alpine draws?
1d
comment Should you occasionally use locking biners on pieces of protection when using alpine draws?
A side issue: I'm not following what you're saying re wiregates versus non-wiregates. Are you saying that one is more likely to open than the other? Is there evidence for this?
2d
accepted Avoiding a “ding-dong” when lead belaying in the gym?
2d
comment Avoiding a “ding-dong” when lead belaying in the gym?
My gym doesn't provide weight bags either, but I'll ask if they have some stashed somewhere.
Jul
29
comment Avoiding a “ding-dong” when lead belaying in the gym?
Yes, that's an excellent answer. Unfortunately my gym doesn't seem to provide anything like that. Maybe I should ask if they can.
Jul
28
comment Avoiding a “ding-dong” when lead belaying in the gym?
@ChrisMendez: I don't know if it's a really standardized term. I've just seen it online. I think it could be any collision between the climber and belayer, e.g., it could be his feet hitting my head. Basically I want to avoid a collision, especially if such a collision could stun or injure me so much that I drop the belay.
Jul
28
asked Avoiding a “ding-dong” when lead belaying in the gym?
Jul
28
comment Is the “rattlesnake line” higher now in the Sierra than it used to be, decades ago?
Climate change is not a fast process, so the change in 20 years is not going to be that great. Rattlesnakes are not aggressive, so they're generally not worth worrying about. If you knew that there were or were not rattlesnakes in a given area, it wouldn't help you to be safer.
Jul
27
comment When can a glacier be crossed without special gear (axes, crampons, rope, etc.)?
Your edited version of the answer is better, so I'm removing my downvote.
Jul
27
revised When can a glacier be crossed without special gear (axes, crampons, rope, etc.)?
added 82 characters in body
Jul
27
comment When can a glacier be crossed without special gear (axes, crampons, rope, etc.)?
[...] climb out while being belayed from above on the climbing rope. To accomplish this, the victim will almost certainly need crampons and at least one ice ax or ice tool. A secondary reason for the crampons is that the people up on top have to self-arrest when their partner falls in. Once they're in self-arrest, at least some of them need to maintain that self-arrest for a significant period of time while the rescue gets under way, and they need to be able to do that while at least one person gets up. To do that, they are going to want to kick in with their crampons.
Jul
27
comment When can a glacier be crossed without special gear (axes, crampons, rope, etc.)?
but falling down one with sharp pointy things attached to you can actually increase your chances of wounding yourself (snagging a crampon on the fall and breaking your leg, impaling yourself on your tool, etc.) No, this is wrong. Although it's true that you can be injured by your crampons in this type of situation, that isn't a reason for not wearing crampons. The reason is that although there are multiple possible strategies for getting someone out of a crevasse, the technique of choice, which you should try first and which has the greatest probability of success, is for the victim to [...]
Jul
27
answered When can a glacier be crossed without special gear (axes, crampons, rope, etc.)?