5,674 reputation
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bio website lightandmatter.com
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I live in LA and enjoy day hikes, backpacking, rock climbing, and mountaineering.


Mar
24
comment Pros and cons of Tent vs bivvy bag
@AndrewWelch: Tarps work in the rain. They're meant to keep the rain off, and they do that.
Mar
24
revised Pros and cons of Tent vs bivvy bag
added 190 characters in body
Mar
24
revised Pros and cons of Tent vs bivvy bag
added 820 characters in body
Mar
24
answered Pros and cons of Tent vs bivvy bag
Mar
24
revised What specific features should I take into account when buying GPS device for Geocaching?
fix typo
Mar
23
revised Backup prusik for Abseiling: Where does it go?
added 142 characters in body
Mar
23
comment What do I do if I lose my belay plate?
related: outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/617/…
Mar
23
revised What do I do if I lose my belay plate?
added 615 characters in body
Mar
23
comment What do I do if I lose my belay plate?
Method 2 looks like a nice idea for saving your crotch! If you didn't do the art yourself, you might want to credit the source.
Mar
23
revised What do I do if I lose my belay plate?
added 299 characters in body
Mar
23
comment What do I do if I lose my belay plate?
I don't think it's a good idea to encourage other people to try something like this.
Mar
23
comment What do I do if I lose my belay plate?
@Steed: In fact, we are usually using 1 carabiner in place of A and two carabiners at C, gates flipped, to make sure at least one gate will not get opened by the passing rope. Hmm... by gates "flipped," do you mean not putting the spines side by side, or do you mean spines side by side but gates forming an X? All the sources of information I listed in the answer say to put C and D not opposed. This would be because the rope should be passing over the spines, not the gates.
Mar
23
comment What do I do if I lose my belay plate?
@Steed: Note that with this device you brake by lifting your hand up I don't think this is right. See this article: climbing.com/skill/rappel-without-a-belay-device Also, biners C and D both have their gates facing away from you, so if you were to lift the rope, it seems to me that it could risk opening the gates. The braking position is also shown on this video at around 8:15 youtube.com/watch?v=03JjYHk2L2A .
Mar
23
revised What do I do if I lose my belay plate?
added 125 characters in body
Mar
23
comment Anchor without cordelette?
Possibly useful: youtube.com/watch?v=smk3cKvfi-8 He's at the top of a climb, walks around a tree or boulder, ties a figure eight, and clips in.
Mar
22
revised Why should the angle in a rope attached to two anchors be 60 degrees or less?
deleted 15 characters in body
Mar
22
comment What do I do if I lose my belay plate?
@Mr.Wizard: Done. Three is the bare minimum, but as discussed in my answer, four is preferable.
Mar
22
answered What do I do if I lose my belay plate?
Mar
21
comment Where is a good place in California to go gold panning for a beginner?
Is your goal to make money, to find a little bit of dust for a souvenir, or just to have an excuse to get outside in a pleasant environment and splash around?
Mar
21
comment What do I do if I lose my belay plate?
@Mr.Wizard: Interesting info about the options for adding friction to a Munter -- cool! The carabiner brake method doesn't require 6 ovals, it requires a minimum of 3, plus a locking biner. I don't know about other people, but my trad rack does include 3 ovals and a locker.