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bio website lightandmatter.com
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I live in LA and enjoy day hikes, backpacking, rock climbing, and mountaineering.


Mar
11
comment How to top belay 2 climbers at the same time on multi-pitch climb?
I think I understand you now. I'm going to edit the first paragraph. If you don't like my edit, feel free to roll it back.
Mar
10
comment How to top belay 2 climbers at the same time on multi-pitch climb?
As Raz Peel's answer explains, it is certainly possible to set up a belay with a standard ATC to be auto-blocking. However, one of the design features of the ATC guide is that it makes it easier to get the auto-blocking. My understanding is that the name of the ATC guide refers specifically to the fact that guides may frequently find themselves in a situation where they need to belay two clients at once. The autoblocking feature of the ATC guide makes it easy to lock off one climber and get that hand free (but I guess you'd want to make sure they stopped climbing, to avoid slack).
Mar
10
comment How to top belay 2 climbers at the same time on multi-pitch climb?
I don't quite follow the first paragraph. It seems to be responding to something that wasn't actually the question that was asked. I don't see anywhere in the question that the OP refers to using the wire loop. I think the first paragraph should just be deleted.
Mar
10
awarded  Pundit
Mar
6
comment Hiking half dome - What are the most efficient logistics for getting a campsite in little Yosemite?
Just do something else. That area is extremely heavily impacted because too many people all want to do the same hike.
Feb
25
comment How do you flavour your water on camping trips?
From the scientific information I've seen this appears to be settled science that has been known for almost a century. I don't think it's controversial among physiologists. Of course it goes against a popular belief, so people may be surprised by the facts.
Feb
25
revised Does drinking tea cause problems at altitude?
deleted 2 characters in body
Feb
24
comment How to calculate the force (kN) generated by a falling climber onto their protection?
@aaaaargZombies: I don't think anybody actually does calculations like this for practical climbing. There are too many factors that are hard to quantify, such as rock quality, the quality of the placement, and how far beyond its rated strength the piece will really go before it's torn apart. Realistically, your time is better spent reading John Long's book on climbing anchors, and reading Accidents in North American Mountaineering to find out what really goes wrong and gets people hurt or killed. The biggest issues are: (1) minimizing fall factor, and (2) getting that first "Jesus nut" in.
Feb
23
revised How to calculate the force (kN) generated by a falling climber onto their protection?
deleted 17 characters in body
Feb
23
awarded  rock-climbing
Feb
23
revised How to calculate the force (kN) generated by a falling climber onto their protection?
added 215 characters in body
Feb
23
answered How to calculate the force (kN) generated by a falling climber onto their protection?
Feb
19
comment Delayed muscle ache after boulder session
And BTW people used to believe that DOMS was from lactic acid buildup, but that turns out to be false.
Feb
19
comment Good books to learn survival?
Excellent, canonical answer. Deep Survival is really good on decision-making, which can be much more important than technical skills.
Feb
17
comment What is the most efficient food to take a for a 12-15 day hiking trip?
@RussellSteen: Last I read there is no place in the US that does not have a potential for Giardia. Domesticated animals, including the increased popularity of hiking with dogs, over the entire US has spread this protozoa to virtually every stream in the continental US. Totally false. More info here: lightandmatter.com/article/hiking_water.html
Feb
16
comment What size dry bag is best for keeping and washing clothes?
I don't understand the question. What is a "dry bag" in this context? Why do you want to do this? What do you mean by "travelling, not hiking?"
Feb
13
comment water knot vs figure 8 follow through vs X for rock climbing anchor - What is easiest to untie?
This application is the only reason I know the water knot. When there's a totally, totally standard knot for a certain application, I would need a heck of a good reason to use some other knot.
Feb
13
comment Do polarized sunglasses protect against snow blindess?
@OlinLathrop: Cool info, thanks. I guess the relevant search term is Brewster's law. Note that polarizing filters probably block nearly all of both polarizations of UV -- see outdoors.stackexchange.com/a/7785/2169 .
Feb
11
comment Do polarized sunglasses protect against UV?
related: outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/25/…
Feb
11
answered Do polarized sunglasses protect against snow blindess?