6,496 reputation
1434
bio website lightandmatter.com
location
age
visits member for 1 year, 7 months
seen 10 hours ago

I live in LA and enjoy day hikes, backpacking, rock climbing, and mountaineering.


Oct
6
revised Leader injured during multipitch trad climb, what to do?
added 187 characters in body
Oct
6
asked Leader injured during multipitch trad climb, what to do?
Oct
6
comment How much should my toes hurt in 5.10 MoccAsym shoes?
I added a summary of the article.
Oct
6
revised How much should my toes hurt in 5.10 MoccAsym shoes?
add summary of article
Oct
5
comment Anchor without cordelette?
Good point about how using the rope as part of the anchor severely limits options when something goes wrong. On the other hand, it occurs to me that the technique I've learned for escaping the belay requires the use of a cordelette for a prusik -- so unless I have a second cordelette, it seems like I have serious problems regardless of whether I build the anchor using the rope or using a cordelette.
Oct
4
comment How much should my toes hurt in 5.10 MoccAsym shoes?
What type of outdoor climbing are you talking about? Bouldering? Difficult sport climbing? In general, if it hurts, that's your body telling you not to do it.
Oct
4
comment What should I look for in hiking binoculars
There is not going to be a generic answer to this. It will be a trade-off involving price, features, and weight. I have a nice pair of binoculars, but I wouldn't take them hiking because they're big and heavy. But other people might not might the weight.
Oct
4
comment Ration or consume water?
@nhinkle: lightandmatter.com/article/hiking_water.html
Oct
3
answered Ration or consume water?
Oct
3
comment Belay checklist?
A checklist needs to be standard and perfect But I don't think that's possible, because there are many different types of climbs and belays. If I'm belaying someone on top-rope in the gym, I'm going to check their knot, but if they're following me on a multipitch climb, I can't do that. For a sport climb, I may want to tie a knot in the end of the rope, but the climber may choose not to wear a helmet. For a trad climb, I'm tied in to my end of the rope, so that's not something to check, but we should certainly be wearing helmets.
Oct
3
answered What to look for in a winter skills course?
Oct
2
comment Water filter that handles mercury?
I would first find out what the concentration is in the local water (this many parts per million or whatever), and compare with standards for drinking water. If it really is at the level where it could be harmful, I doubt you're going to find commercial products, since it's not a common problem.
Sep
30
awarded  Explainer
Sep
29
comment Carrying crampons safely when not using them
I tried the soda bottle. Totally didn't fit.
Sep
29
comment How do to a safety knot when abseiling with 2 ropes?
Most people use an autoblock, not a Prusik.
Sep
26
comment During high-altitude lengthy expedition: To shave or not shave?
Having a beard covered with frost is the manliest of mountaineering achievements. In order to achieve this, make sure to stop shaving at least a couple of weeks before you start the expedition.
Sep
24
awarded  Autobiographer
Sep
17
revised Black bears and torch lights
added 12 characters in body
Sep
17
answered Black bears and torch lights
Sep
16
answered Climbing Kilimanjaro for a newbie