3,306 reputation
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bio website lightandmatter.com
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visits member for 1 year
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I live in LA and enjoy day hikes, backpacking, rock climbing, and mountaineering.


Apr
4
comment Which knot for climbing: figure eight, yosemite bowline, bowline on a bight?
Your climbing partner needs to be able to check your knot. They're expecting a rewoven figure-eight, and they can reliably identify whether a knot is or is not a figure-eight. For those reasons, it's not a good idea to use some other knot for your tie-in, even if you understand it and think it has some slight advantage.
Apr
2
comment How safe is it to hike alone?
A taser? Really? That seems a little silly. I agree that you're safer from violence in the wilderness than in a town -- and I assume you don't carry a taser on the subway.
Apr
2
comment What to do at the top of a sport climb
@Roflo: It was muddled in my mind. Glad to have both answers.
Apr
1
comment What to do at the top of a sport climb
I think my original question was not completely well thought out in terms of the typical situations on the crag, but I think your answer and anatolyg's ended up complementing each other nicely to fill in the real-world situations that are likely to occur, both when I'm the first up a route and when I'm the one cleaning it after everyone's done.
Apr
1
comment What to do at the top of a sport climb
Thanks for the clarifications! The climbing.com link is working for me right now as well.
Apr
1
awarded  Enlightened
Apr
1
awarded  Nice Answer
Mar
30
accepted What to do at the top of a sport climb
Mar
30
revised What to do at the top of a sport climb
added 2 characters in body
Mar
29
comment What to do at the top of a sport climb
I would like to accept this answer, but would like to clarify the above issues first.
Mar
28
comment What to do at the top of a sport climb
Doesn't #10, "remove and untie retaining knot on rope," come before #8, "weight the rope?" Otherwise your belayer is just pulling down on you.
Mar
28
comment What to do at the top of a sport climb
In #12 you say "rappell down," but are you really referring to rapping off or to being lowered?
Mar
28
revised What to do at the top of a sport climb
fix mistake
Mar
28
comment What to do at the top of a sport climb
The climbing.com link is broken.
Mar
28
awarded  Enthusiast
Mar
28
awarded  Yearling
Mar
27
awarded  Nice Answer
Mar
27
comment What to do at the top of a sport climb
@anatolyg: I'm talking about leading, and leaving a top-rope in place after I'm done.
Mar
26
asked What to do at the top of a sport climb
Mar
24
comment Pros and cons of Tent vs bivvy bag
@AndrewWelch: Tarps work in the rain. They're meant to keep the rain off, and they do that.