3,211 reputation
819
bio website lightandmatter.com
location
age
visits member for 1 year
seen 12 hours ago

I live in LA and enjoy day hikes, backpacking, rock climbing, and mountaineering.


Mar
23
revised What do I do if I lose my belay plate?
added 299 characters in body
Mar
23
comment What do I do if I lose my belay plate?
I don't think it's a good idea to encourage other people to try something like this.
Mar
23
comment What do I do if I lose my belay plate?
@Steed: In fact, we are usually using 1 carabiner in place of A and two carabiners at C, gates flipped, to make sure at least one gate will not get opened by the passing rope. Hmm... by gates "flipped," do you mean not putting the spines side by side, or do you mean spines side by side but gates forming an X? All the sources of information I listed in the answer say to put C and D not opposed. This would be because the rope should be passing over the spines, not the gates.
Mar
23
comment What do I do if I lose my belay plate?
@Steed: Note that with this device you brake by lifting your hand up I don't think this is right. See this article: climbing.com/skill/rappel-without-a-belay-device Also, biners C and D both have their gates facing away from you, so if you were to lift the rope, it seems to me that it could risk opening the gates. The braking position is also shown on this video at around 8:15 youtube.com/watch?v=03JjYHk2L2A .
Mar
23
revised What do I do if I lose my belay plate?
added 125 characters in body
Mar
23
comment Anchor without cordelette?
Possibly useful: youtube.com/watch?v=smk3cKvfi-8 He's at the top of a climb, walks around a tree or boulder, ties a figure eight, and clips in.
Mar
22
revised Why should the angle in a rope attached to two anchors be 60 degrees or less?
deleted 15 characters in body
Mar
22
comment What do I do if I lose my belay plate?
@Mr.Wizard: Done. Three is the bare minimum, but as discussed in my answer, four is preferable.
Mar
22
answered What do I do if I lose my belay plate?
Mar
21
comment Where is a good place in California to go gold panning for a beginner?
Is your goal to make money, to find a little bit of dust for a souvenir, or just to have an excuse to get outside in a pleasant environment and splash around?
Mar
21
comment What do I do if I lose my belay plate?
@Mr.Wizard: Interesting info about the options for adding friction to a Munter -- cool! The carabiner brake method doesn't require 6 ovals, it requires a minimum of 3, plus a locking biner. I don't know about other people, but my trad rack does include 3 ovals and a locker.
Mar
20
comment Painful leather hiking boots - persevere or give up?
IMO a pair of boots that fits properly shouldn't require heroic measures such as these.
Mar
20
comment What do I do if I lose my belay plate?
@Mr.Wizard: I can't remember if it is supposed to be superior to the HMS; do you? Good question. I've only practiced each way once. I'm not sure if the biner method gives more friction. The biner method definitely gives you several options for controlling the amount of friction, whereas with the munter I don't know of any way of controlling that.
Mar
20
comment What do I do if I lose my belay plate?
@Mr.Wizard: I remember thinking that it would be easier to carry a second ATC than enough ovals to set that up. If you're climbing trad, then you have a bunch of extra biners simply because you need them for various tasks. By the time you're ready to rap off, you've got all or nearly all of your hardware back on your rack, so you have those biners available. Carrying a spare ATC would mean carrying extra gear that you're unlikely to need and that has no other use.
Mar
19
revised Why should the angle in a rope attached to two anchors be 60 degrees or less?
added 210 characters in body
Mar
19
answered Why should the angle in a rope attached to two anchors be 60 degrees or less?
Mar
19
comment Why should the angle in a rope attached to two anchors be 60 degrees or less?
In your second diagram, the angle looks like 30 degrees as rendered in my browser. The angles in the two diagrams look the same in my browser; the second one simply looks like a magnified version of the first.
Mar
19
comment Why should the angle in a rope attached to two anchors be 60 degrees or less?
There is nothing magic about 60 degrees. As the angle incerases, the stress on each anchor increases. An angle of 50 degrees could be too much, if your anchors were poor and you needed to hold a big dynamic load. An angle of 90 degrees could be perfectly OK, if the anchors were good and they just needed to hold a small static load.
Mar
19
comment What do I do if I lose my belay plate?
There is also the carabiner brake method, shown in Freedom of the Hills, 8th ed, p. 197, figure 11-11. I found it difficult to assemble, so it would be worth practicing at home.
Mar
19
awarded  Investor