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bio website lightandmatter.com
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visits member for 1 year, 7 months
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I live in LA and enjoy day hikes, backpacking, rock climbing, and mountaineering.


Aug
24
comment How to find climbing shoes for toe and heel hooks?
Basically the ones with more of a curved heel are probably what you want. You might want to keep your original shoes in case you get interested in trad climbing and multipitch; they'll be more comfortable and practical for that.
Aug
23
accepted Shortening a shoulder-length sling to half-length?
Aug
23
accepted Efficient and reliable method for managing a nut tool while following on a trad climb?
Aug
23
comment Applications of a slip knot in climbing?
@Ryley: If it snagged, wouldn't you just be able to clear the snag during the rappel? Rapping off the end of the rope is an extremely common cause of climbing accidents, so I would definitely always use knots.
Aug
22
comment Shortening a shoulder-length sling to half-length?
@Liam: Good point. These folks blog.alpineinstitute.com/2013/04/extending-your-rappel.html recommend girth-hitching through the tie-in loops for that reason. This also seems like a good idea because when I girth-hitch to the belay loop, the sling tends to get caught under biners that are under tension.
Aug
22
asked Shortening a shoulder-length sling to half-length?
Aug
21
awarded  Enlightened
Aug
21
awarded  Nice Answer
Aug
21
comment Rock climbing- trad
Does "negative" mean overhanging? What do you mean by "cliff-hangers?"
Aug
21
comment Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?
From your description, it sounds like a cllimber calling down "in direct" is at best pointless and at worst dangerous...?
Aug
20
comment What happens if I inadvertently set off a personal locator beacon?
@SteveJessop: I'm basing this on newspaper reports and on having spent some time reading incident reports on the web site of the Riverside Mountain Rescue Unit, which handles the San Jacinto Mountains. Search and rescue volunteers are well trained and careful, but they still do get hurt and killed. Probably one of the contributing factors here is Southern California is that the Transverse Ranges are extremely rugged and generally have horrible rock quality. If someone's perched on a ledge on some horrible dirt/scree cliff, it may be difficult to find good anchors, and there may be rock fall.
Aug
20
comment What happens if I inadvertently set off a personal locator beacon?
@romkyns: AFAIK it can't be turned off once it's activated. Even if it could, that seems like a bad idea, since then they wouldn't know where you were if you moved.
Aug
19
comment Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?
Could you explain more about your reasoning re the voice command "in direct?" Is this a common command? What does it mean? I've never actually heard this, but in my limited sport-climbing experience people use the word "direct" to refer to putting themselves on a direct connection to the anchor. If I'd heard someone say "in direct," I would have hopefully yelled up "WTF?," but basically it would have sounded to me like they were asking to be taken off belay.
Aug
19
comment What happens if I inadvertently set off a personal locator beacon?
Nice answer, +1. I'm not sure if staying put is always going to be the best option. Yes, that's certainly what search and rescue advises when you have an actual emergency and the only information they have is the route info you left with your family or friends. This situation might be somewhat different, because (a) you're not actually in danger, so you aren't going to put yourself in worse danger by moving, and (b) if you do move, the PLB is going to notify search and rescue of where you've moved to. I think it might be a judgment call as to whether to try to hike out or not.
Aug
19
comment What happens if I inadvertently set off a personal locator beacon?
@Felix: I've revised my answer to discuss two possible options.
Aug
19
revised What happens if I inadvertently set off a personal locator beacon?
added 25 characters in body
Aug
19
revised What happens if I inadvertently set off a personal locator beacon?
added 268 characters in body
Aug
19
answered What happens if I inadvertently set off a personal locator beacon?
Aug
17
comment How to set up a tent in deep snow
The techniques described in this answer would have a huge impact on the natural environment.
Aug
17
comment Dealing with large runouts during sport climbing
Sometimes I've seen sport routes where the bolts were as described in the question, and there was also no opportunity to place gear for protection. My feeling was that I just didn't want to climb something like that.