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bio website lightandmatter.com
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visits member for 1 year, 7 months
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I live in LA and enjoy day hikes, backpacking, rock climbing, and mountaineering.


Aug
15
comment How do I tie a double fisherman's knot?
also the knot can get caught over an edge Here you seem to be assuming that the knot is going to be used for joining together two climbing ropes for a rappel. This is not the only application of the double fisherman's knot, even in climbing. Actually a more common use is simply to form a sling out of a piece of utility cord. This answer is also not so great because it doesn't explain how the overhand is tied for this application (although I'm sure the links do explain it).
Aug
15
asked Applications of a slip knot in climbing?
Aug
14
comment Is there a best practices guide online for rock climbing safety?
A lot of people use Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills, although its focus isn't specifically on sport climbing. There is a book by Libby Peter, Rock Climbing: Essential Skills and Techniques, which bills itself as "the official handbook of..." some organizations. An example safety best practices question might be whether it is better to lower off anchors vs. rappelling. One isn't better than the other in all cases. Actually this seems like it would be a nice outdoors.SE question: when to do one and when to do the other.
Aug
14
awarded  Nice Answer
Aug
13
comment Climbing Webbing with Taped Ends (where & why)
Wow, scary! Kind of strange that they wouldn't have figured this out when unrolling/flaking/coiling the webbing. If I'd unrolled a roll of webbing and found some masking tape wrapped on it, I'd have removed it ... but not a mistake that anyone should pay the death penalty for :-(
Aug
13
comment Most Eco-Friendly way to Identify a Climbing Route
@AM_Hawk: I don't think it is very different from the case of putting up trail signs. If it's public land, or privately owned land that isn't mine, then I wouldn't take it upon myself to put up trail signs. Even when a forest ranger puts up a trail sign in a national park, they're balancing environmental impact against the benefits of having the sign.
Aug
13
comment What are the most common stinging plants to be aware of in North America?
In Southern California, a really nasty one is poodle-dog bush: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eriodictyon_parryi
Aug
12
answered Most Eco-Friendly way to Identify a Climbing Route
Aug
9
comment Is burying human waste always the lowest-impact solution?
@requiem: The body of the paper is paywalled. Only the abstract is accessible. I don't see anything in the abstract that supports your assertion.
Aug
8
comment Knot to turn cord into loop (load bearing)
Right, I just wanted to make sure that was clear to other people reading your answer.
Aug
8
comment How do climbers retrieve anchored rope?
A mountain climber has no one above him as he descends I'm not sure if this is describing someone climbing alone (which is not what you would usually do), or the second person in a two-person team descending. Rory Alsop and Nick were describing rappelling off. If we're talking about a team of two, then down-climbing is also an option. If you down-climb, then you can place and clean gear just as you would for normal up-climbing, and the advantage would be that you don't leave gear behind.
Aug
7
comment Knot to turn cord into loop (load bearing)
-1. A square knot isn't very secure, and its correct application isn't as a bend.
Aug
7
awarded  Nice Question
Aug
7
comment Knot to turn cord into loop (load bearing)
Re the figure eight, it's important not to use the offset (flat) form as a bend, because it capsizes very easily and has been implicated in a number of accidents: user.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/EDK.html
Aug
7
answered Which notable/challenging mountains can be ascended with few technical skills?
Aug
7
awarded  Nice Answer
Aug
7
comment Good canyon (or canyoning) websites
For the San Gabriel Mountains near Los Angeles: dankat.com/advents/advents.htm
Aug
7
comment Knot to turn cord into loop (load bearing)
This answer could be improved by cutting the last paragraph. A reef knot is not a secure enough knot for this purpose.
Aug
7
awarded  Nice Answer
Aug
6
comment Is burying human waste always the lowest-impact solution?
I don't think the issue is altitude, I think the issue is overuse. Rainier and Whitney are both overused areas.