5,634 reputation
1231
bio website lightandmatter.com
location
age
visits member for 1 year, 5 months
seen 11 hours ago

I live in LA and enjoy day hikes, backpacking, rock climbing, and mountaineering.


Aug
28
comment How many calories does hiking burn?
related: physics.stackexchange.com/questions/77139/…
Aug
24
comment How to find climbing shoes for toe and heel hooks?
Basically the ones with more of a curved heel are probably what you want. You might want to keep your original shoes in case you get interested in trad climbing and multipitch; they'll be more comfortable and practical for that.
Aug
23
comment Applications of a slip knot in climbing?
@Ryley: If it snagged, wouldn't you just be able to clear the snag during the rappel? Rapping off the end of the rope is an extremely common cause of climbing accidents, so I would definitely always use knots.
Aug
22
comment Shortening a shoulder-length sling to half-length?
@Liam: Good point. These folks blog.alpineinstitute.com/2013/04/extending-your-rappel.html recommend girth-hitching through the tie-in loops for that reason. This also seems like a good idea because when I girth-hitch to the belay loop, the sling tends to get caught under biners that are under tension.
Aug
21
comment Rock climbing- trad
Does "negative" mean overhanging? What do you mean by "cliff-hangers?"
Aug
21
comment Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?
From your description, it sounds like a cllimber calling down "in direct" is at best pointless and at worst dangerous...?
Aug
20
comment What happens if I inadvertently set off a personal locator beacon?
@SteveJessop: I'm basing this on newspaper reports and on having spent some time reading incident reports on the web site of the Riverside Mountain Rescue Unit, which handles the San Jacinto Mountains. Search and rescue volunteers are well trained and careful, but they still do get hurt and killed. Probably one of the contributing factors here is Southern California is that the Transverse Ranges are extremely rugged and generally have horrible rock quality. If someone's perched on a ledge on some horrible dirt/scree cliff, it may be difficult to find good anchors, and there may be rock fall.
Aug
20
comment What happens if I inadvertently set off a personal locator beacon?
@romkyns: AFAIK it can't be turned off once it's activated. Even if it could, that seems like a bad idea, since then they wouldn't know where you were if you moved.
Aug
19
comment Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?
Could you explain more about your reasoning re the voice command "in direct?" Is this a common command? What does it mean? I've never actually heard this, but in my limited sport-climbing experience people use the word "direct" to refer to putting themselves on a direct connection to the anchor. If I'd heard someone say "in direct," I would have hopefully yelled up "WTF?," but basically it would have sounded to me like they were asking to be taken off belay.
Aug
19
comment What happens if I inadvertently set off a personal locator beacon?
Nice answer, +1. I'm not sure if staying put is always going to be the best option. Yes, that's certainly what search and rescue advises when you have an actual emergency and the only information they have is the route info you left with your family or friends. This situation might be somewhat different, because (a) you're not actually in danger, so you aren't going to put yourself in worse danger by moving, and (b) if you do move, the PLB is going to notify search and rescue of where you've moved to. I think it might be a judgment call as to whether to try to hike out or not.
Aug
19
comment What happens if I inadvertently set off a personal locator beacon?
@Felix: I've revised my answer to discuss two possible options.
Aug
17
comment How to set up a tent in deep snow
The techniques described in this answer would have a huge impact on the natural environment.
Aug
17
comment Dealing with large runouts during sport climbing
Sometimes I've seen sport routes where the bolts were as described in the question, and there was also no opportunity to place gear for protection. My feeling was that I just didn't want to climb something like that.
Aug
15
comment How do I tie a double fisherman's knot?
also the knot can get caught over an edge Here you seem to be assuming that the knot is going to be used for joining together two climbing ropes for a rappel. This is not the only application of the double fisherman's knot, even in climbing. Actually a more common use is simply to form a sling out of a piece of utility cord. This answer is also not so great because it doesn't explain how the overhand is tied for this application (although I'm sure the links do explain it).
Aug
14
comment Is there a best practices guide online for rock climbing safety?
A lot of people use Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills, although its focus isn't specifically on sport climbing. There is a book by Libby Peter, Rock Climbing: Essential Skills and Techniques, which bills itself as "the official handbook of..." some organizations. An example safety best practices question might be whether it is better to lower off anchors vs. rappelling. One isn't better than the other in all cases. Actually this seems like it would be a nice outdoors.SE question: when to do one and when to do the other.
Aug
13
comment Climbing Webbing with Taped Ends (where & why)
Wow, scary! Kind of strange that they wouldn't have figured this out when unrolling/flaking/coiling the webbing. If I'd unrolled a roll of webbing and found some masking tape wrapped on it, I'd have removed it ... but not a mistake that anyone should pay the death penalty for :-(
Aug
13
comment Most Eco-Friendly way to Identify a Climbing Route
@AM_Hawk: I don't think it is very different from the case of putting up trail signs. If it's public land, or privately owned land that isn't mine, then I wouldn't take it upon myself to put up trail signs. Even when a forest ranger puts up a trail sign in a national park, they're balancing environmental impact against the benefits of having the sign.
Aug
13
comment What are the most common stinging plants to be aware of in North America?
In Southern California, a really nasty one is poodle-dog bush: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eriodictyon_parryi
Aug
9
comment Is burying human waste always the lowest-impact solution?
@requiem: The body of the paper is paywalled. Only the abstract is accessible. I don't see anything in the abstract that supports your assertion.
Aug
8
comment Knot to turn cord into loop (load bearing)
Right, I just wanted to make sure that was clear to other people reading your answer.