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Jan
22
comment How do I connect to an autobelay with a Whillan's harness?
Yes, Google "Todd Skinner" and "broken belay loop" for a reminder why harnesses and other climbing "soft wear" have a limited life in terms of safety. I had a Whillans Harness, purchased in 1990 (excellent for winter climbing at the time, as it was easy to get on while wearing crampons, etc,). The harness shown above is much older than that one. I can tell this because construction details were changed over the years when it was made.
Jan
12
comment Membrane jacket rises up when crouching
If the jacket has some way of tightening the lower hem, then if the hem is too tight, it will rise as you crouch or raise your arms but remain in place when you stand up or lower your arms.
Nov
13
comment Search and rescue costs in Iceland?
It seems that even though the Icelandic Search and Rescue service is free at the moment, according to icelandreview.com/news/2015/07/24/… there are possible plans to start charging due to recent increases in call outs.
Oct
26
awarded  Enlightened
Oct
26
awarded  Nice Answer
Oct
25
awarded  Nice Answer
Sep
24
revised Is clipping directly onto a dyneema sling safe?
Added content of comment below as requested
Sep
24
comment Is clipping directly onto a dyneema sling safe?
Certainly not! It is possible to take a fall with a very large Fall Factor on Via Ferrata, which is why Via Ferrata "lanyards" have a means of allowing the rope to slip through some sort of fall protector (or have elasticated sections held together by stitching which will burst during a fall) in order to absorb the possible very large shock. The intention with cowstails is NOT to fall but to prevent a fall from happening. However if you do fall (and you should never climb above the item to which they are attached) it should only by with a small Fall Factor and onto dynamic rope.
Sep
24
revised Is clipping directly onto a dyneema sling safe?
added 111 characters in body
Sep
24
answered Is clipping directly onto a dyneema sling safe?
Aug
24
awarded  Enlightened
Aug
24
awarded  Nice Answer
Jul
29
answered Cleaning the plastic residue of the inside of my old backpack
Jun
19
answered Which glue to use to repair a tent outer?
Jun
13
answered Dangers of excavating caves?
Jun
9
answered What sort of rock climbing grade can a goat do?
Jun
8
comment Should I spray a 'good' raincoat with 'water proof' spray?
There are specific cleaning materials such as NikWax Tech Wash, but most manufacturers suggest a soap flake type of cleaner is preferable to detergent as these often have whiteners and other chemicals.
Jun
8
answered Should I spray a 'good' raincoat with 'water proof' spray?
Apr
30
comment Paramo vs Gore-Tex jackets?
In my experience, because Paramo gear is quite warm, I wear Paramo when temperatures are 10 degrees C/ 50 degress F and below or Event when above that. Paramo is not waterrproof in the traditional sense (e.g. if you kneel on wet ground, water will be forced inwards, but will soon be expelled again on standing up), but if kept treated with NikWax TX10, I have stayed completely dry despite day-long downpours (including in Scotland!). Unlike other soft shells, you will remain dry using Paramo gear in heavy rain.
Apr
23
comment How far would you need to fall for it to be fatal?
Sadly a climber recently died in a 20 foot / 6 metres fall - grough.co.uk/magazine/2015/04/23/…