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location Berkeley, CA
age 24
visits member for 2 years, 7 months
seen Dec 3 '13 at 3:14

I'm a physics student at the University of California.


Jul
22
comment Why do many climbers appear to not trust their belay loops?
Point is, just because there are different ways of doing things, does not make the old way less safe. Maybe less convenient. But any time you try to change an ingrained system is potential danger, I would never tell an old hand to stop tying in with his double backed bowline because the figure 8 is more mainstream, because his/her years of climbing has ingrained the knot to point that its almost fail-proof for them, changing their system throws a wrench in that mental ratchet.
Jul
22
comment Why do many climbers appear to not trust their belay loops?
I don't extend because I typically only carry dyneema slings and their low melting point makes me nervous when extending a something that can get quite hot.
Jul
22
comment Why do many climbers appear to not trust their belay loops?
Belay loop is not the strongest part of the harness, all hard points on the harness are typically rated to 22KN, the belay loop is a convenience and not a safety feature.
Jul
22
comment When climbing should a carabiner ever be clipped to the tie-in loops, and should anything other than a carabiner ever attach to the belay loop?
Lower tie in point is full strength but the leg loops are not, in general, as secure as the swami belt, the top tie in is a just the swami belt and the belay loop (also 22KN full strength) just links the two to make it more comfortable, On harnesses with full strength (22kn) gear loops it is safe to belay from one (though why you would I dunno) and I've read accident reports of people falling on them and they hold a fall fine as well.
Jul
19
comment Why can't a Figure-of-8 descender be used for SRT?
Climbers have used figure 8's for single rope rappels for years before atc's and other devices became popular, its not dangerous, but not ideal given the options available. Biggest problem is rope twist, if you are worried about dropping it you can rig a small tie loop with a small (keychain) biner and 4 mil cord
Jul
19
comment When climbing should a carabiner ever be clipped to the tie-in loops, and should anything other than a carabiner ever attach to the belay loop?
Nothing wrong with clipping into the top tie in point instead of the belay loop, they are both full strength and people belayed off just a swami belt for years. Generally its more comfortable on the belay loop, but there are valid reasons to clip into the tie-in
Jul
19
awarded  Commentator
Jul
19
comment Whats the best way to abseil off a ledge with the anchor at foot level?
Not to mention that if you fall on the anchor when trying to intitiate the rappel with anchor below you there is so little rope out that its basically a static factor 2 fall, it will hurt and it is liable to break things
Jul
19
comment How to avoid pendulum descent when belaying?
Its not about looking cool, its avoiding teaching that its ok to grab the rope and ingraining the instinct to grab the rope, if you are swinging into a wall and you grab the rope instead of controlling your swing thats bad, the instinct of grabbing the rope or quickdraw has led to many impaled hands and lost fingers.
Jul
19
comment How to avoid pendulum descent when belaying?
holding the rope while being lowered is generally considered bad practice
Jul
19
revised What to teach someone who wants to start lead climbing?
added 228 characters in body
Jul
19
awarded  Editor
Jul
19
revised What to teach someone who wants to start lead climbing?
added 228 characters in body
Jul
19
answered What to teach someone who wants to start lead climbing?
Mar
25
awarded  Yearling
Jun
21
comment How can rope/cordage be packed to minimize tangles?
Borrowing a little intuition from knot theory, if you coil from both ends at once (like the butterfly/backpacker coil) then any twisting/torque you put in the rope gets canceled by the opposite torque in the other end, You are less likely to get twisting (which leads to knots and wadded mess) if you coil both ends together. The disadvantage is that you need to flake it as it won't just spool out.
Jun
21
comment What is the difference between men's and women's hiking boots?
I think the wideness factor is the real reason, Although it probably doesn't apply to hiking boots as much as just regular shoes(I've never seen a "wide" size for men's shoes, women's shoes have that designation though). Obviously though, as long as it fits and is comfortable its really all about sizing convenience.
Jun
21
awarded  Teacher
Jun
21
comment FiveFingers or hiking boots?
If someone was completely used to wearing five fingers the lack of ankle support shouldn't be a big deal even with a heavy pack. I'd say the biggest concern (for someone who is completely used to five fingers) is most definitely the warmth factor and, depending on the terrain, traction.
Jun
21
answered Will boiling be enough to decontaminate standing water from pathogens and toxins?