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Just another software engineer. Longtime outdoor sports enthauist. Avid rock climber.


Jul
26
comment How to apply duct tapes and mole skin to prevent blisters?
Question - are you wearing "liner socks"? I found those helped me.
Jul
26
comment How to apply duct tapes and mole skin to prevent blisters?
Sounds like a good trip. Any time you get a new pair of shoes or even a new pair of socks you can start getting blisters.
Jul
25
revised How to apply duct tapes and mole skin to prevent blisters?
added 214 characters in body
Jul
25
answered How to apply duct tapes and mole skin to prevent blisters?
Jul
25
comment What is Arc'Teryx Technical down?
+1 - I like this question. (for anyone not famaliar with Arc'teryx) Arc'Teryx is the one of the most expensive brands of outdoor gear on the market, and possibly one of the best. But I've never been sure what exactly their proprietary technologies are, or if they're nearly good enough to justify the large price difference from other brands. But I have no idea what the answer is.
Jul
23
comment Why do many climbers appear to not trust their belay loops?
+1 - excellent historical prespective
Jul
22
comment Why do many climbers appear to not trust their belay loops?
Could we move this out of the comments on this answer, we've gone off topic a little. I'm not sure if this should be a separate answer to this question, or its own question, but its going to get buried in the comments.
Jul
22
comment Why do many climbers appear to not trust their belay loops?
And at the end of the day, getting something solid up fast is best, so you can get off the d@mn mountain before sunset. :)
Jul
22
comment Why do many climbers appear to not trust their belay loops?
@crasic - but, sure, I think some of the new-fangled systems are more trouble than they're worth sometimes. Personally, I think a regular coordellete knot is a better choice than a fancy "equallete" that John Long is recommending most of the time, but that's a whole different issue"... I've climbed with beginners that think dynamic equalization is mandatory 100% of the time, regardless of how long it takes to set up the anchor, and I find that a little annoying.
Jul
22
comment Why do many climbers appear to not trust their belay loops?
@crasic - Sure, you should be conservative about changing a system you're used to... But at the same time you shouldn't assume that every historic system is compatible with every new product that comes on the market. For instance, a lot of new harnesses have "speed buckles" on the leg loops, including my new one. Speed buckles are relatively new, and will come loose much more easily than traditional buckles if the autoblock catches them wrong, which is part of why I switched my autoblock to my main belay loop.
Jul
22
comment When climbing should a carabiner ever be clipped to the tie-in loops, and should anything other than a carabiner ever attach to the belay loop?
@crasic - :) look, my comment was really about what to do with carabiner (don't clip it into two points plus the belay device). The top loop may be fine, my point was just that that wasn't want the manufacturers were recommending, and I don't see why you'd go out of your way to encourage people to use it that way. Its tiny and inconvenient to get a carabiner in and out of (at least on most of my harnesses), and there's no reason to give beginners a suspicion that their belay loop isn't 100% designed to belay off of (which an endless stream of beginners seem to think). :)
Jul
21
comment When climbing should a carabiner ever be clipped to the tie-in loops, and should anything other than a carabiner ever attach to the belay loop?
petzl.com/us/outdoor/advice-on-harness-use_us For instance, here Petzl specifically recommends against using only the lower tie-in point to belay or tie in with Petzl harnesses. They don't comment on the use of the upper tie-in point. That is, for harnesses with 2 tie-in points. Some harnesses only have a single tie-in point. I don't know whether or not petzl designs them the same.
Jul
21
comment When climbing should a carabiner ever be clipped to the tie-in loops, and should anything other than a carabiner ever attach to the belay loop?
If you think that, could you post an answer so that people can formally respond to it? I'm not saying that you're wrong or that doing this hasn't worked for you in the past. But I know that's now how equipment manufacturers recommend people set up belays with modern harnesses (at least I think not). Some modern harnesses are relentlessly optimized to save weight, and only tested as a unit, and I'd want to be careful assuming that any individual piece was rated to catch falls, even if traditional harnesses were. At least, that would be my basic concern.
Jul
21
revised Why do many climbers appear to not trust their belay loops?
added 133 characters in body
Jul
21
answered Why do many climbers appear to not trust their belay loops?
Jul
21
comment Why do many climbers appear to not trust their belay loops?
I think there's kind of a couple of independent questions here - "Is it reasonable for a climber to create a secondary belay loop out of webbing or coord" and "Is it reasonable for a climber to cut out his / her belay loop because it isn't needed". Asking why people would insist on second guessing the equipment manufacturer may open a whole can of worms...
Jul
21
comment Why do many climbers appear to not trust their belay loops?
I edited your title. The title originally asked if the belay loop was the strongest part of the harness. But in your first sentence, you asserted an affirmative answer to the question in the title, and asked why then did climbers not trust belay loops. I edited your title to reflect what I think your question asks. I can change it back, if you want.
Jul
21
revised Why do many climbers appear to not trust their belay loops?
Changed title to reflect actual question
Jul
19
revised Why can't a Figure-of-8 descender be used for SRT?
edited tags
Jul
17
revised What to teach someone who wants to start lead climbing?
moved something from the comments into the Answer