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seen Dec 10 '13 at 23:50

Just another software engineer. Longtime outdoor sports enthauist. Avid rock climber.


May
17
revised what to do with the lap coiled rope if the belayer wishes to lead consecutive pitches
added 360 characters in body
May
17
revised what to do with the lap coiled rope if the belayer wishes to lead consecutive pitches
added 13 characters in body
May
17
revised what to do with the lap coiled rope if the belayer wishes to lead consecutive pitches
added 567 characters in body
May
17
answered what to do with the lap coiled rope if the belayer wishes to lead consecutive pitches
May
17
comment swapping lead when climbing in a group of three using a pair of half ropes
I don't have an answer, other than to just not to do multipitch routes with 3 people. Every time I've done it I regretted it.
May
17
comment swapping lead when climbing in a group of three using a pair of half ropes
+1. And your question is about how to do this efficiently, right? How to avoid a massive rope tangle, and 15+ minutes at the belay, trying to transition?
May
15
awarded  Custodian
May
15
reviewed Leave Open 5-hour loop hike near Boulder, Colorado
May
15
comment How tight should the line be kept for toproping?
Thanks for clarifying the length of the routes... The same day you posted this, someone asked a different question about toproping 200' routes outdoors. I (at least) was thinking in those terms when I saw your question. :)
May
15
comment How tight should the line be kept for toproping?
And I think there was an old meta about this, in the context of avalanche safety...
May
15
comment How tight should the line be kept for toproping?
I can, but it'll be a few hours. (About to go to a meeting)
May
15
comment How tight should the line be kept for toproping?
Can we take this into a meta discussion? :)
May
15
comment How tight should the line be kept for toproping?
When the route moves sideways instead of straight up and down. It introduces the chance of swinging. It esp becomes an issue on routes that weren't intended to be toproped - a route may traverse 15' or more, and introduce wild swings. A route that was a safe lead may have a pendulum that could result in hitting the ground or a buttress of rock. Sometimes.
May
15
comment Toproping with two ropes joined by a double fisherman's
Rope manufacturers publish "elongation" statistics, which I believe are UIAA certified. Accidents are going to be tricky, because they only get reported if there was a rescue. In this scenario, the climber may get a sprained / broken ankle from too much rope stretch,, but could still be lowered by his friends, probably.
May
15
comment Toproping with two ropes joined by a double fisherman's
You could look at the material associated with the AMGA "Single Pitch Instructor" course, but I think it's only available if you take a class from them (no online).
May
14
revised How tight should the line be kept for toproping?
added 76 characters in body
May
14
comment How tight should the line be kept for toproping?
I'll edit. I actually keep it at the point where there is neither slack or tension, but that's a little tricky and takes experience belaying.
May
14
comment How tight should the line be kept for toproping?
:) ahhh! such a preference thing. I shouldn't have answered it... I don't think you can write an answer that captures everyone's possible preferences, while also making sure that a beginning climber doesn't deck his friend.
May
14
comment How tight should the line be kept for toproping?
hey - part of why people are having a hard time giving a concise answer for this is that there are vastly different scenarios where one may be toproping, and the answer changes between them. Are you talking about gym-climbing (or climbing outside on 50' or less cliffs, where the route doesn't traverse, and there aren't ledges in the middle of the route)? Because there is a simple answer for that question. :)
May
14
answered How tight should the line be kept for toproping?