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Just another software engineer. Longtime outdoor sports enthauist. Avid rock climber.


May
15
comment Toproping with two ropes joined by a double fisherman's
You could look at the material associated with the AMGA "Single Pitch Instructor" course, but I think it's only available if you take a class from them (no online).
May
14
revised How tight should the line be kept for toproping?
added 76 characters in body
May
14
comment How tight should the line be kept for toproping?
I'll edit. I actually keep it at the point where there is neither slack or tension, but that's a little tricky and takes experience belaying.
May
14
comment How tight should the line be kept for toproping?
:) ahhh! such a preference thing. I shouldn't have answered it... I don't think you can write an answer that captures everyone's possible preferences, while also making sure that a beginning climber doesn't deck his friend.
May
14
comment How tight should the line be kept for toproping?
hey - part of why people are having a hard time giving a concise answer for this is that there are vastly different scenarios where one may be toproping, and the answer changes between them. Are you talking about gym-climbing (or climbing outside on 50' or less cliffs, where the route doesn't traverse, and there aren't ledges in the middle of the route)? Because there is a simple answer for that question. :)
May
14
answered How tight should the line be kept for toproping?
May
14
comment How tight should the line be kept for toproping?
part of the problem is that there are multiple audiences reading these questions. Experienced climbers, who just have narrow technical questions, and beginners, who don't understand the full context, and can and do miss-interpret the things they read.
May
14
comment How tight should the line be kept for toproping?
@RussellSteen - I'm sorry, but that's not true. That's like saying you can learn to drive by reading about it on the internet. There's a lot of information to impart, and performing it correctly requires a combination of skill and mechanical knowledge. Even if someone did manage to write an answer that covered all aspects of the subject, the odds of someone reading it, then translating it correctly into practice on the first try is pretty low. Rock climbing (not to be dramatic) is a life-or-death game, and reminding beginners to get proper instruction is the only responsible choice.
May
13
revised Toproping with two ropes joined by a double fisherman's
added 125 characters in body
May
13
revised Toproping with two ropes joined by a double fisherman's
added 125 characters in body
May
13
revised Toproping with two ropes joined by a double fisherman's
added 125 characters in body
May
13
answered Toproping with two ropes joined by a double fisherman's
May
13
awarded  Custodian
May
13
reviewed Satisfactory How safe is the bowline knot in different situations?
May
2
comment If an autoblock inteferes with a belay device will a fireman belay have any effect?
As someone who frequently answers a slightly more general question than was asked, I applaud this. So often, people recognize a critical situation, but ask exactly the wrong question about it. :)
May
1
comment Any tips to reduce chance that I have to get up and pee in the night (not counting dehydration, of course)
@DonBranson - I think that's the Answer. I'd upvote it, if you wrote it up. Death & Taxes aren't the only two certain things in this world.
May
1
comment What is the correct way to attach an autoblock to your harness for rappelling?
there are two systems for backing up a rappel - regular prussik above the rappel device, or french prussik below the belay device. When the regular prussik is above the device, and it catches, its straightforward (but difficult) to unload it. If you put a regular prussik below the device, and it manages to catch your whole bodyweight, there isn't a direct way to fix it without breaking out more complex techniques. People argue about which of the 2 systems to use, but you can't mix and match them. :)
May
1
comment What is the correct way to attach an autoblock to your harness for rappelling?
No! There's an important distinction. :) An "ordinary Prussik" can catch the entire weight of your body directly on itself, without even loading the belay device. And it can't be released unless you can get your weight off the knot. If this happened during a free-hanging rappel, you'd have to perform a self-rescue or you'd be stuck. A "French Prussik" can't grip that tightly, and can only be used to help the main belay device engage. And I actually had a regular prussik jam on me once (in a rescue practice), it was very hard to fix.
May
1
revised What is the correct way to attach an autoblock to your harness for rappelling?
added 85 characters in body
May
1
revised What is the correct way to attach an autoblock to your harness for rappelling?
added 826 characters in body