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Just another software engineer. Longtime outdoor sports enthauist. Avid rock climber.


May
1
comment If an autoblock inteferes with a belay device will a fireman belay have any effect?
yeah... there are a lot of bad, or at least sub-optimal, techniques that float around out there. Maybe some of them made more sense a generation ago when climbers used slightly different equipment. And you'll run into climbers who have been doing them for years, sometimes. That doesn't mean that there isn't a scenario where the outdated technique wouldn't cause a problem.
May
1
answered When climbing should a carabiner ever be clipped to the tie-in loops, and should anything other than a carabiner ever attach to the belay loop?
May
1
comment If an autoblock inteferes with a belay device will a fireman belay have any effect?
good question. I'd also repeat my advice yesterday, that if you're having continued questions about basic aspects of climbing (like rappelling safely), you should probably seek information from a formal source... a book, or maybe even a class. If you can afford it, a lot of guide services offer 2 or 3 day programs where a guide will spend a full weekend outdoors teaching trad climbing to a class of 1 or 2 students. You can have a genuine expert watch you closely for several days while you're actually climbing on real rock, teaching and correcting as you go. :)
May
1
answered If an autoblock inteferes with a belay device will a fireman belay have any effect?
May
1
comment What is the correct way to attach an autoblock to your harness for rappelling?
@STW - I don't think that leg loops are independently rated, so your concern is valid... and actually, I think the strength of leg loops may vary greatly if the autoblock caught the full weight of the fall (I'm thinking of stitched leg loops now, where that loading would pull at the stitching.)
May
1
awarded  Custodian
May
1
reviewed Approve suggested edit on When climbing should a carabiner ever be clipped to the tie-in loops, and should anything other than a carabiner ever attach to the belay loop?
Apr
30
comment When climbing should a carabiner ever be clipped to the tie-in loops, and should anything other than a carabiner ever attach to the belay loop?
Something else occurs to me - it seems like you have a series of basic questions on setting up a rappel. Do you own a climbing book, like this: amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/… or this: amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Mastering-Mountaineers-Outdoor/dp/… ? I forget which book covers which topics, and don't have my copies with me. But, I think you should get a book on trad climbing, and read it (and re-read it). :)
Apr
30
comment When climbing should a carabiner ever be clipped to the tie-in loops, and should anything other than a carabiner ever attach to the belay loop?
FWIW, I think this friend you climbed with gave you a string of incorrect advice. These are common mistakes, so its possible this is just what someone told her once. :(
Apr
30
comment When climbing should a carabiner ever be clipped to the tie-in loops, and should anything other than a carabiner ever attach to the belay loop?
There are a couple of questions here. Could you split them into a question that says "Can I girth hitch my belay loop?" and "do I run my rappel carabiner through both tie-in points?" FWIW, the answer is "no" to both.
Apr
30
revised When climbing should a carabiner ever be clipped to the tie-in loops, and should anything other than a carabiner ever attach to the belay loop?
added 408 characters in body
Apr
30
comment When climbing should a carabiner ever be clipped to the tie-in loops, and should anything other than a carabiner ever attach to the belay loop?
Did I answer your question? I don't understand what you mean by "halving the rope".
Apr
30
answered When climbing should a carabiner ever be clipped to the tie-in loops, and should anything other than a carabiner ever attach to the belay loop?
Apr
30
revised What is the correct way to attach an autoblock to your harness for rappelling?
added 309 characters in body
Apr
30
answered What is the correct way to attach an autoblock to your harness for rappelling?
Apr
30
comment What is the correct way to attach an autoblock to your harness for rappelling?
for clarity, can you confirm that "autoblock" and "french prussik" are the same knot, and are distinct from a regular prussik? (I have used an autoblock for years, but didn't hear the term "french prussik" until now).
Apr
30
comment What kind of mementos, if any, am I allowed to collect from State and National parks in small quantities?
Good questions? Fishing may be an exception. You're right about the lakes being stocked. I'd be cautious about firewood - fires are restricted in many parks out west (some legal, some not). On the east coast, people are discouraged from taking firewood out of the county where they found / bought it, to reduce the spread of invasive species.
Apr
29
revised What kind of mementos, if any, am I allowed to collect from State and National parks in small quantities?
added 61 characters in body
Apr
22
revised Should food be in a bear bag/canister even when I'm hiking?
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Apr
22
comment Should food be in a bear bag/canister even when I'm hiking?
@BenCrowell - do you think I should change my answer? I meant to just capture the idea that it would be safest to have food all in one place, not to get into details of bear behaviors... you probably know more about them that I do, I've hiked in the Sierras a couple times, but several years ago.