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Nov
6
revised What is the best mountaineering quote that you have ever read?
typo
Nov
5
answered What is the best mountaineering quote that you have ever read?
Oct
25
comment How to overcome fear of falling in lead climbing
+1, progression is key. Don't be afraid to start by taking many "almost-lead" falls where the rope is clipped above you.
Oct
16
comment How to make DIY ice axe protectors?
That's exactly what I do (tennis ball + garden hose). Welcome to Outdoors.SX!
Oct
16
reviewed No Action Needed Painful leather hiking boots - persevere or give up?
Sep
25
comment What to look for in an ice axe for use in classic alpine terrain?
One benefit of foregoing a leash is that it's much easier to switch hands (for example, when zig-zagging up a slope). I agree it's wise to use a leash when starting out.
Sep
22
comment Major fall, same for static and dynamic?
Welcome to Outdoors.SX!
Sep
18
comment What are common climbing techniques for strongly overhanging walls and roofs?
+1 for the teddy bear on the harness, -1 for bouldering with a harness on :).
Sep
16
reviewed Reviewed Legal permits required for trekking in Canada
Sep
16
reviewed No Action Needed How To Quickly Warm A Tent
Sep
16
reviewed No Action Needed How To Quickly Warm A Tent
Aug
25
accepted What information to leave with your emergency contact?
Aug
24
awarded  Nice Answer
Aug
21
comment Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?
For cleaning the route, I would agree (but some wouldn't!). I do use "in direct" often if I'm working a sport route and want to hang on a bolt to rest (clipped in direct to give my belayer a rest).
Aug
20
reviewed Leave Open Gear for Car-camping with 2 small children
Aug
20
reviewed Reviewed How to get weather forecasts at Yellowstone?
Aug
20
reviewed Reviewed Dealing With Sap On A Tent
Aug
20
comment Dealing With Sap On A Tent
Welcome to Outdoors.SX!
Aug
20
comment Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?
Some reference books that might explain the term better. Redpoint: The Self-Coached Climber's Guide to Redpoint and On-Sight Climbing (pg 61) Sport Climbing: From Top Rope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success (pg 97)
Aug
20
comment Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?
"In direct" just means you (the climber) clipped in directly to the anchor. It's primarily used in sport climbing, anytime the climber clipped in directly to a bolt (resting) or anchor (cleaning). The correct action for the belayer is to do nothing. The command implies that the climber will start cleaning the anchor (lowering) and ask for slack. However, as you pointed out, some belayers may misconstrue this as a signal to take them off belay (which is incorrect).