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Mar
19
comment How to tandem rappel/abseil with a child?
+1 for don't drop the baby twice :). Practice close to the ground (even a moderately steep hill will do) the first time.
Mar
19
comment Does sleeping with liner shoes make you feel colder?
+1. Dry socks and a big meal are the best things you can do to keep your feet warm all night long.
Jan
19
comment V-threads (Abalakov): How many holes are too many?
That sounds like a great question in its own right :). Basically, there's a difference between equalization (all forces spread equally) and no-extension (if a piece fails, things don't move very much).
Jan
19
comment V-threads (Abalakov): How many holes are too many?
@aaaaargZombies - I agree with an edit but disagree with your wording: if the backup is equalized then it's no longer a backup (it's now part of your rappel anchor). The video's exact words are "relatively taught to minimize shock loading" (5:14), and I'll add this to my answer. However, that is very different than equalized.
Jan
18
comment V-threads (Abalakov): How many holes are too many?
Not falling on ice is a good mindset. For a discussion of why ice climbing is not rock climbing (and why you should really never fall), see this link: willgadd.com/ice-climbing-is-not-rock-climbing. Will Gadd states that in 30 years of ice climbing he's never taken a lead fall.
Jan
2
comment Climbing Insurance
Well put, the first insurance (and safety line) is yourself!
Dec
31
comment Chaining locking carabiners
It seems the question about lockers is getting lost in the question about the rappel extension... Perhaps you can edit so there's a single clear question (I could see chaining lockers being used elsewhere). Personally I think it's a bad idea to carry that many locking biners. If the sling doesn't work for you, carry an equivalent length of 7mm cord and tie it into a Purcell Prussik.
Oct
25
comment How to overcome fear of falling in lead climbing
+1, progression is key. Don't be afraid to start by taking many "almost-lead" falls where the rope is clipped above you.
Oct
16
comment How to make DIY ice axe protectors?
That's exactly what I do (tennis ball + garden hose). Welcome to Outdoors.SX!
Sep
25
comment What to look for in an ice axe for use in classic alpine terrain?
One benefit of foregoing a leash is that it's much easier to switch hands (for example, when zig-zagging up a slope). I agree it's wise to use a leash when starting out.
Sep
22
comment Major fall, same for static and dynamic?
Welcome to Outdoors.SX!
Sep
18
comment What are common climbing techniques for strongly overhanging walls and roofs?
+1 for the teddy bear on the harness, -1 for bouldering with a harness on :).
Aug
21
comment Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?
For cleaning the route, I would agree (but some wouldn't!). I do use "in direct" often if I'm working a sport route and want to hang on a bolt to rest (clipped in direct to give my belayer a rest).
Aug
20
comment Dealing With Sap On A Tent
Welcome to Outdoors.SX!
Aug
20
comment Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?
Some reference books that might explain the term better. Redpoint: The Self-Coached Climber's Guide to Redpoint and On-Sight Climbing (pg 61) Sport Climbing: From Top Rope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success (pg 97)
Aug
20
comment Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?
"In direct" just means you (the climber) clipped in directly to the anchor. It's primarily used in sport climbing, anytime the climber clipped in directly to a bolt (resting) or anchor (cleaning). The correct action for the belayer is to do nothing. The command implies that the climber will start cleaning the anchor (lowering) and ask for slack. However, as you pointed out, some belayers may misconstrue this as a signal to take them off belay (which is incorrect).
Aug
19
comment What happens if I inadvertently set off a personal locator beacon?
If you should accidentally activate a PLB in an area without phone coverage, you should get to phone coverage as quickly (and safely) as possible. Rescues take some time to initiate, and you may be able to avoid some unnecessary work on their part.
Jul
23
comment What are creative uses for retired carabiners?
Be aware that the plastic lid connection is really flimsy. I've had quite a few of them snap or roll off, so I generally attach some thin cord around the neck of the nalgene, and clip to that.
Jul
23
comment What are creative uses for retired carabiners?
That seems like it would be difficult with a proper carabiner :).
Jul
23
comment What are creative uses for retired carabiners?
I completely agree that the only way to really retire unsafe climbing gear is to destroy it.