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seen Aug 27 at 18:19

Aug
21
comment Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?
For cleaning the route, I would agree (but some wouldn't!). I do use "in direct" often if I'm working a sport route and want to hang on a bolt to rest (clipped in direct to give my belayer a rest).
Aug
20
comment Dealing With Sap On A Tent
Welcome to Outdoors.SX!
Aug
20
comment Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?
Some reference books that might explain the term better. Redpoint: The Self-Coached Climber's Guide to Redpoint and On-Sight Climbing (pg 61) Sport Climbing: From Top Rope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success (pg 97)
Aug
20
comment Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?
"In direct" just means you (the climber) clipped in directly to the anchor. It's primarily used in sport climbing, anytime the climber clipped in directly to a bolt (resting) or anchor (cleaning). The correct action for the belayer is to do nothing. The command implies that the climber will start cleaning the anchor (lowering) and ask for slack. However, as you pointed out, some belayers may misconstrue this as a signal to take them off belay (which is incorrect).
Aug
19
comment What happens if I inadvertently set off a personal locator beacon?
If you should accidentally activate a PLB in an area without phone coverage, you should get to phone coverage as quickly (and safely) as possible. Rescues take some time to initiate, and you may be able to avoid some unnecessary work on their part.
Jul
23
comment What are creative uses for retired carabiners?
Be aware that the plastic lid connection is really flimsy. I've had quite a few of them snap or roll off, so I generally attach some thin cord around the neck of the nalgene, and clip to that.
Jul
23
comment What are creative uses for retired carabiners?
That seems like it would be difficult with a proper carabiner :).
Jul
23
comment What are creative uses for retired carabiners?
I completely agree that the only way to really retire unsafe climbing gear is to destroy it.
Jul
18
comment An adjustable length knot for 2 lines and a carabiner for easy suspension
That carabiner looks like it would hold up exactly once, I'm sure the OP will figure that out and replace it with a proper-sized carabiner :)
Jul
18
comment Knot to turn cord into loop (load bearing)
I'm not a big fan of that alternative name because of the connotations it brings :). Agreed, dressing it well (pulling on each pair of strands) is key.
Jun
26
comment Travelling and taking climbing chalk through customs
Agreed; I have flown with chalk in both carry-on and checked luggage. Don't carry on a nut tool, however!
Jun
4
comment Anchor without cordelette?
Welcome to Outdoors.SX! Very interesting anchor, I hadn't seen that one before.
Jun
3
comment How should a climbing rope be stored?
Here are three links that recommend washing ropes in washing machines (including one from Sterling, who makes ropes): sterlingrope.com/faq rei.com/learn/expert-advice/rope-care.html ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=202
Jun
3
comment How should a climbing rope be stored?
Then we shall agree to disagree. Good thing we don't store each others' ropes :)
Jun
3
comment How should a climbing rope be stored?
Welcome to outdoors.sx! Please clarify that you mean 50C, not 50F :). Also, I believe it is more correct to say that "the strength of frozen wet nylon is lower" than "frozen, wet nylon tends to break".
Jun
3
comment How should a climbing rope be stored?
Disagree with #3; I was my rope all the time, often in the washing machine.
Jun
2
comment How high to climb before clipping on a sport climb?
In most cases when sport climbing, #3 (hitting the deck) is the only thing we really care about. Many exceptions exist.
Mar
27
comment How to pull one's partner from a crack/crevasse when skiing?
Crevasse rescue is a complicated skill that is far too important to leave to a few questions on stack exchange.
Feb
6
comment Roping together on an icy path?
I agree with you, trekking poles won't work for self arrest (BD does make a whippet trekking pole but that's just weird). However, one or two trekking poles can help you keep your balance and prevent a fall from happening. I think it all depends on the terrain you are traveling on, different tools for different places.
Feb
4
comment Preventing cross-loading on belay carabiners
The BD gridlock instructions clearly show the proper way to attach a Gri-Gri is to 'reverse' the carabiner (larger loop on the belay loop): 3rd row, 2nd column demandware.edgesuite.net/aakn_prd/on/demandware.static/…