Timeline for With what specific techniques are various bouldering grades associated? [duplicate]
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16 events
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Sep 16, 2017 at 8:01 | comment | added | Qudit | @KennyEvitt It's a V1 if it feels similar in difficulty to other V1's. There's no quantitative system for assigning grades as you seem to assume. | |
Sep 15, 2017 at 23:27 | comment | added | Kenny Evitt | This should be re-opened so it can be answered the same way that grades are assigned – (rough) community consensus. Grades are real! They are not totally uncorrelated with how difficult it is for any given climber's 'strength' and mastery of various techniques. I concede that, at at least V3 or thereabout, any technique may be required. That still leaves at least three grades tor which there's surely some kind of answer beyond 'magic!'. | |
Sep 15, 2017 at 20:26 | comment | added | Qudit | Severe overhangs require different techniques, but aren't necessarily harder just because they are overhung. In fact, I often find overhangs to be easier than other climbs of the same grade since the holds are much better. Finding big overhangs to be very difficult is common among new climbers because it takes time to learn the right techniques to handle them. | |
Sep 15, 2017 at 15:40 | history | closed |
user2766 paparazzo stijn knitti Erik |
Duplicate of How do you decide on a climbing grade? | |
Sep 15, 2017 at 15:06 | comment | added | user2766 | You should also bear in mind that typically indoor grades are easier than outdoor ones. | |
Sep 15, 2017 at 14:56 | comment | added | user2766 | Crazy or not, that's how it works. Climbing grades are guides. That's it. They can and do change constantly, are subjective and can alter depending on the rock, terrain, aspect, height, etc. Just because you climbed one v3 doesn't mean you can climb all v3s. Indoor climbing is very different to outdoor climbing. Indoors there's probably 2-3 people setting all the routes, outdoors every route can be graded by a different person. | |
Sep 15, 2017 at 14:47 | comment | added | Kenny Evitt | @Liam That seems crazy – expecting V0 climbers to climb a roof, regardless of how big the holds are. I couldn't climb a roof, tho I can consistently climb V2s. More generally, you seem to be disputing that grades mean anything; not just that they're fuzzy or approximate, but literally meaningless. Have you also seen V0 problems with tiny holds that require crimping too? A V0 can't be a meaningful grade and yet also potentially require any amount of strength or any climbing technique at all. I'd dispute that a V0 could even reasonably require a heel hook, let alone a toe hook, for example. | |
Sep 15, 2017 at 14:37 | comment | added | user2766 | New climbers don't grade. Grading is a purely subjective process based on experience, it isn't a technical exercise. I'm sorry but what your looking for doesn't exist. I've seen roofs with v0 climbs on them. It's just got big bucket holds to make it easier. | |
Sep 15, 2017 at 14:33 | comment | added | Kenny Evitt | This isn't a duplicate. Yes, this is related to how grades are assigned or given, but it's ridiculous to expect new climbers to be able to grade any climb. Grading climbs should only reasonably be expected of experienced climbers. Thus, if nothing else, the audience and beneficiaries of this question are very different than those of the supposed potential duplicate. | |
Sep 15, 2017 at 14:30 | comment | added | Kenny Evitt | @Liam I dispute that literally any grade could require any technique. I understand that it may be approximately true for most grades, but I want to know the correlations and associations there are, however few they may be, or fuzzy the connection. | |
Sep 15, 2017 at 14:27 | history | edited | Kenny Evitt | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
Clarify why this question isn't a duplicate of another
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Sep 15, 2017 at 9:39 | comment | added | user2766 | Tl;Dr this isn't how it works. I have climbed 60 degree overhangs that are v1 and short slabby climbs that are v4. Grade == difficulty, the moves involved are secondary. | |
Sep 15, 2017 at 7:47 | review | Close votes | |||
Sep 15, 2017 at 15:40 | |||||
Sep 15, 2017 at 0:05 | answer | added | Ben | timeline score: 4 | |
Sep 14, 2017 at 23:34 | review | First posts | |||
Sep 15, 2017 at 6:52 | |||||
Sep 14, 2017 at 23:28 | history | asked | Kenny Evitt | CC BY-SA 3.0 |