When do you need compensation training for bouldering?

Question

Not only, but mainly while bouldering you are likely to push hard moves and strain your body onesided. As a consequence you can pain your muscles, ribbons or tendons. But...

• How do I know if the ache in muscles is stiffness and therefore nothing to worry about?
• How do I notice that I train very onesided and need compensation training?
• Which training methods do you prefer?

What's most important here is to notice and decide, when you need compensation training for bouldering?

Answer 1

The main problems caused by onesided training are reduced movement range, bad posture and lack of stability (which increases the risk of acute injuries).

• Anyone who has done any kind of intense sport knows how regular, harmless muscle soreness feels. You should worry when it doesn't go away or gets worse rather than better after more training, or when it feels different (e.g. is not located in the muscles, or feels more stinging than sore).
• Bouldering is inherently onesided for the fingers, arms, shoulders (and somewhat less the core). You need compensation/antagonist training if bouldering is the only nonaerobic sport you do, and you do it a lot.
• Look into bodyweight or resistance band exercises that strengthen the core and back muscles, the shoulder's rotator cuff, and pushup variations. For the finger extensors, you can do rice bucket exercises, or use rubber bands.