I have what I think is a well-tuned 70# compound bow. I use a release and carbon fiber arrows. IBO is 313 fps. Real-world chrony is around 250 fps. Arrows are GT XT 5575 with QuickFletch vanes. I get good groups with my 125 grain field points at all ranges and I don't see much difference in the arrow strikes at different ranges. When I switch to using 125 grain broadheads, my group still stays relatively good, but it moves considerably up a bit and too the right. I can move my sights to accommodate the broadheads, but I want to know what is going on. I am shooting outdoors, but in completely windless conditions. Is the change in group location indicative of a problem in my overall tuning? I see lots of opinions about tuning for your broadheads on the interwebs, but I am just not sure how to make peace with the fact that my broadheads hit a different place than my fieldpoints. I would appreciate any insights.
No offence, but if your bow is properly tuned you'll literally feel no difference from field tips to broadheads :) Broadheads intensify any tuning issues. That's why you may experience a supposedly well-tuned field tip and a bad flying broadhead.
On a properly tuned bow, a Wasp Broadhead will hit the same marks as your field points.
Broadheads have a way of maginifying tuning problems. (...) (L)et’s say your broadhead hit 3 inches higher and 5 inches left of the field point. It is time to tinker.
However, this is not really a problem at all. You just have to do that tuning process (so, tinker ;) ). Do it like this:
First, make sure your knock, fletchings and broadhead are inline. Stand 20 yards from a target and shoot a field point tipped arrow. As long as your sights are set, it should be close to the bull’s-eye. Leave the arrow in the target as a point of reference.
Next, aim in the exact same spot as you did on the previous shot and shoot again, but this time with a broadhead tipped arrow. How close is it to the field point arrow?
(...) For demonstration purposes, let’s say your broadhead hit 3 inches higher and 5 inches left of the field point. It is time to tinker.
Start by moving your rest one hash mark, usually 1/16-inch on most rests, to the right (always make rest movement opposite of where your broadhead arrow is hitting, both horizontally and vertically). Do not move the rest vertically yet. Make one adjustment at a time, because in many cases, one small fix will cure the issue. Shoot the field point and broadhead tipped arrow again and analyze the results. If it is still shooting left, you need to move the rest further to right. If it is now shooting right, you moved it too far. If it is shooting dead center but still high, you need to move it down. If you hit the same spot as the arrow you first shot with the field tip, you are good to go, but it usually takes a few rounds of adjustments to get it right.
Once your broadhead and your field point arrows are grouping tight, you may have to make an adjustment to the sight so both types of heads will hit the bullseye.
Now, some may ask, why not just adjust my sights to accommodate my broadheads since I will be hunting with those? Well, you are not fixing the tuning issues, you are compensating for them and you will lose energy and the efficiency of your bow if you let a tuning issue fester. Fix the problem at the cause and both your field tips and Wasp broadheads will hit the target in same spot. Below is a video that illustrates the basic idea of this method of tuning your bow for broadheads.