When tying my autoblock knot my cord keeps twisting, and it does not end up looking nearly this nice:

enter image description here

I use a double-fisherman loop of cord that stays permanently tied, and it lays flat. How can I prevent my cord from twisting?

Perhaps I should pre-twist my cord to counter the twist that the knot introduces? What do others do?

  • 1
    Note that a prusik doesn't have this problem because it is twisted symmetrically around the rope. – Chris Mendez Apr 4 '17 at 23:44
  • 2
    Although not functionally exactly the same, a Klemheist will hold shape. I use a Klemheist or Prussik over autoblock. – user5330 Apr 5 '17 at 3:29
  • 2
    I don't care what shape my auto block takes, as long as it holds. – ShemSeger Apr 5 '17 at 5:07
  • Isn't the twisting the mechanism by which it's holding the rope? Can you show a photo of it twisted? – Liam Apr 5 '17 at 8:38

Firstly... your picture features a french prusik or autoblock knot. BUT it's a badly tied one.

There are 3 parts of the knot: 2 tails plus the length of the wraps.

These 3 parts NEED to make an equilateral triangle. The knot will probably still work if this is not the case, but the knot is optimal when it makes an equilateral triangle.

Regarding twisting; I assume you mean the knot deforms and becomes messy when loaded. Don't worry about it, the knot still works and thats all that matters.

My comment about the geometry of the knot was taught to me by Tim Neil, the highly experienced mountain guide, whilst on the Jonathan Conville course supported by plas y brenin. By optimal, i mean the knot will hold under load, and will release easily when required.

Edit: Here's a better example of the knot. Note the 3 lines are roughly equal enter image description here

Image taken from: https://www.mountainproject.com/images/98/14/108859814_medium_b98f12.jpg

Your Answer

By clicking "Post Your Answer", you acknowledge that you have read our updated terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy, and that your continued use of the website is subject to these policies.

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.