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My main problem when bouldering and sometimes while climbing is, that after some time the skin/flesh of my middle and lower phalanges start to hurt and the skin comes off so further climbing becomes nearly impossible. The timespan until this happens differes and I can't see any progression over time or that bigger timespans between my climbing sessions would lead to better conditions. It seems to me that this isn't a problem of training, but of poor preparation/condition which lead to a bad form of the day for my fingers.

So my question would be, is there anything I can do between the days of climbing to strengthen and prepare my finger skin/flesh to make it last longer?

  • Also related How to take care of climbing hands? tough skin is one thing, tough skin that peels off is another! – user2766 Jan 19 '18 at 9:21
  • The first one is about strength which I'm not missing, the second seems to match my needs. Thank you – Gistiv Jan 19 '18 at 9:37
  • Yeah, I saw the answer doesn't quite answer the question being asked so I've added an additional one that probably covers your question better outdoors.stackexchange.com/a/18273/2766 – user2766 Jan 19 '18 at 9:51
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There are some things that can prevent the skin from tearing off and getting the so-called "flappers":

First, learn to control your center of gravity and your contact points with the wall so that you can make as many moves as possible statically:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfH_S2LTEXA

Because dynamic moves tend to result in stronger peak forces you need to absorb with your hands and your skin.

Second, avoid over-gripping large holds: enter image description here

Overgripping results in more lateral forces on the skin of your fingers, which increases the chance of flappers.

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