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Wikipedia notes that the E1 is marked from Okstindan to Børgefjell National Park, but is ambiguous about the national park itself. Indeed, Norgeskart has a route northward from the park boundary (which at this point is at a lake). Wikipedia goes on to describe the route south of Børgefjell National Park. What is the route for the E1 through Børgefjell National Park itself? Does it follow Grensesømmen and/or Nordlandsruta in this area? And where do those routes go, then? As far as I know, there are no marked trails at all in Børgefjell, but a route suggestion can still be useful planning information.

This E1 Hiking Tours website does not list the route in Norway and Sweden at all. This old forum post (Google Cache) describes it starting north of Børgefjell only.

  • For clarity, changed the title to include the full official name for the trail – Tullochgorum Jan 24 '18 at 13:01
  • That route... is not for amateurs, at least the northern Norwegian part of it. It is near my home. i have had some 5-6 day forays into that landscape. I'd not attempt it without a satellite phone and at least a weeks worth of rations. When you pass into Sweden and Padjelanta, you are enclosed from civilization by alpine areas on both sides - I suspect there will be no phone coverage at all for many days of trekking, and there will be no shops. Or likely other people. I think starting at Børgefjell (which is not easy either) is the better choice. – Stian Yttervik Jan 25 '18 at 9:16
  • @StianYttervik I agree that experience is required, and I'm bringing a satellite phone as usual. I've hiked a lot in the Scandinavian mountains, including three times on 2 weeks+ solo hikes in the Sarek/Padjelanta/Rago area, hiking on no trails except in Rago, as well as most of Nordkalottruta/E1 between Padjelanta and Kilpisjärvi. This year I have less time so I'll limit myself to Børgefjell, which is smaller but (I expect) no less wild. Certainly not a walk in the park! – gerrit Jan 25 '18 at 10:26
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There are two conflicting accounts of the route of the E1 through Børgefjell.

After coming back from Børgefjell, I believe that the route through Børgefjell is probably the toughest part of the E1, and a good candidate for the toughest part of any European long-distance hiking route. Within Børgefjell, there are no markers, few trails, few bridges, and just a handful of (emergency) shelters. The lack of markers is a conscious decision out of respect for the local Sami traditions, so this is unlikely to change. Due to the very low level of visitation and the relatively open terrain, it is unlikely that any trails will socially develop apart from the limited sections where they already exist. This section of the E1 required extensive wilderness experience. An example of the landscape along the route:

Scenery along the E1
Scenery along the E1

The E1 crosses the snowfield visible near the top.

If the E1 through Børgefjell appears too wild, there is an easy alternative on the Swedish side. Coming from the north, the easy alternative branches southeast from Harvass to follow Norgefararleden to the cabins at Tjåkkelestugan, then to Stekenjokk, then back into Norway. This route sticks to trails or rural roads all the way with roofed accommodation at regular intervals (in fact, it has a fair bit of roadwalking).

Now to the route of the actual E1. As stated, there are two conflicting accounts.

Account one: there is an interactive map of all (?) E-routes on the website waymarkedtrails. I don't know how reliable it is, but for the sections I've walked in the past it appears accurate. This source suggests that the route is indeed unmarked and that, from north to south, the route is:

  • Harvasstua (connected by road 48 km from Hattfjelldal/Aarporte, opportunity to restock)
  • Storvollen
  • Park boundary south of Austre Tiplingen/Luvlie Diehpele
  • More or less following the reingjerde toward Rotnan-Ranserdalen
  • Up to Viermatjahke
  • Passing south of Viermavatnet/Viermejaevrie
  • Crossing from Nordland into Nord-Trøndelag
  • Following Viermevuemie to the park boundary at the northern tip of Nååmesjenjaevrie/Namsvatnet

From here there is a seasonal boat to Fredheim at Naustervika, which is connected by road 15 km from Røyrvik, the next opportunity to restock.

Account two: a complete description of the E1 from north to south through Norway is available from Turistforeningen. The relevant part through Børgefjell is described as four long sections from Daningen in the north to Bustadmo in the south. This description includes the sections to reach the park from the nearest road from the north and to get out of the park to the nearest road south of it. The description is in Norwegian, but I will provide a translation in English. Note that this route description does not agree with the route sketch on waymarkedtrails!

Susendalen – Tiplingan Skogstue¹, 16 km

Vi følger nå veien utover Susendalen i 6 km til krysset hvor vei tar ned til Eldsmoen. Vi fortsetter forbi krysset til vi er over brua like etter, og tar da sti ned til Oksvollen og krysser Susna på bru. Skal nå bratt opp gjennom skogen til Susenfjellenden hvor stigningen blir slakere, og avtar helt inn under SØ-enden av Susenfjellet. Vi dreier VSV og holder litt over skoggrensa et par km. Igjen mer mot SV og slakt ned gjennom våtlendt skog til Tverrelva. Krysser den og stiger opp til Ruffie. Der passerer vi stidele for stien ned til brua over Tiplingelva. Vi fortsetter mot SV i ca 1,7 km fram til Tiplingan skogstue.

Overnatting: Tiplingan skogstue

Tiplingan Skogstue - Raentserenmehkie, 18 km

Del av E1 og Grensesømmen. Strekningen er ikke market.
Fra Tiplingan skogstue går vi tilbake opp til stidelet på Ruffie og tar stien mot S ned til brua over Tiplingelva. Her går grensa til Børgefjell nasjonalpark. Fra brua tar vi rett S mellom bekkedragene og følger ryggen opp til Kraejhpie hvor vi kommer over skogen. Fortsetter mot S og passerer pkt 857 og følger bekk før vi kommer til elv og reingjerde der det gjør en sving. Vi krysser elva nedenfor reingjerdet og følger V-siden av reingjerdet og elva ca 2 km.

Vi får større avstand fra elva og passerer V for vann 960 og over høydedraget mellom punktene 1060 og 1033. Litt ned for å krysse bekken fra Reinhornvatnet og gjennom skardet litt V for høyde 1002. Dreier nå mot SV og passerer svingene i Ranserelva før vi krysser den. Herfra en drøy km mellom tjernene mot S til bua like ved reingjerdet.

Overnatting: Raentserenmehkie²

Raentserenmehkie - Viermahytta, 28 km

Del av E1 og Grensesømmen. Strekningen er ikke market.
Fra bua følger vi reingjerdet mot SV. Når gjerdet dreier mot S fortsetter vi rett fram innover dalen og opp snøbakken til skardet ved vann 1065. Her oppe dreier vi mot V og går ned i Virmadalen slik at vi kommer på N-siden av elva og vannene. Slik følger vi dalen nedover og passerer fylkesgrensa mellom Nordland og Nord-Trøndelag før vi kommer til skogen. Dreier da mer mot S for fortsatt å følge Vierma langs V-siden helt til utløpet i Namsvatnet. Snaut 300 m videre langs vannkanten ligger Viermahytta før vi kommer til utløpet av Storelva.

Overnatting: Viermahytta (Røyrvik Fjellstyre) (Åpen 01.06 – 09.09., 6 sengeplasser)

Viermahytta - Bustadmo, 27,5 km

Del av E1 og Grensesømmen. Strekningen er ikke market.
Fra hytta går vi tilbake til utløpet av Vierma og over brua og passerer på oversiden av husene i Norddalsvika. Innerst i vika er det myr helt ned til vannet, så vi prøver å gå innenfor myrene og dreier da mot SØ. Krysser Matbekken og holder samme høyde til vi er over utløpet av Orrelva. Nærmer oss da elva og krysser den på bru ca 800 m ovenfor utløpet. Kan nå ta rundt høyde 556 på N-siden eller gå over den til Storvika og fortsette langs vannkanten i en drøy km. Her går vi ut av Børgefjell Nasjonalpark.

Når vannkanten får mer vestlig retning tar vi gradvis opp fra vannet og passerer skardet Ø for Sultenfiskåsen. Vi går S for Sultenfisktjerna i et vatt og myrete terreng. Vi holder også på S-siden av Lille Gollomvatnet, og må dreie mot S når vi kommer til Store Gollomvatnet. Følger vannet litt over vannkanten, men før og etter Rennselelva er det myrlendt. I V-enden av vannet kommer vi til skogsvei som følges i 4 km til hovedveien. Denne følger vi mot S og tar til høyre i første kryss på vei som fører til Bustadmo.

Alternativ til å gå er å bruke skyssbåt over Namsvatnet,

Overnatting: Bustadmo ”Base Camp Børgefjell” (privat)

My translation (improvements welcome):

Susendalen – Tiplingan Skogstue¹, 16 km

We now follow the road through Susendalen for 6 km until the intersection where a road goes down to Eldsmoen. We continue beyond the intersection to a bridge just after, and then take the trail down to Oksvollen and cross Susna with a bridge. Shall now go steeply up through the forest to Susenfjellenden where the climb becomes more gentle, and stops completely at the SE-end of Susenfjellet. We head WSW and hold slightly above the treeline for a few km. A bit more SW again and gently down through the wetland forest to Tverrelva. We cross it and climb up to Ruffie. There we pass the trail intersection for the trail down to the bridge over the Tipling river. We continue SW for around 1.7 km until the Tiplingan forest cabin.

Accommodation: Tiplingan skogstue

Tiplingan Skogstue - Raentserenmehkie, 18 km

Part of E1 and Grensesømmen. Section is not marked. From Tiplingan forest cabin it goes back to the trail intersection at Ruffie and we take the trail south down to the bridge over the Tipling river. Here we pass the boundary with Børgefjell National Park. From the bridge we head straight south between the streams and follow the ridge up to Kraejhpie where we get out of the forest. Continue south and pass point 857 and follow the stream before we reach a river and reindeer fence where it makes a swing. We cross the river underneath the reindeer fence and follow the west side of the fence and river for around 2 km.

We get a larger distance from the river and pass west of lake 960 and over the heights between points 1060 and 1033. A bit down to cross the stream coming out of Reinhornvatnet and through the pass a bit west of height 1002. Now we turn SW and pass the meanders in the Ranser river before we cross it. From here about a km between the little lakes southward to the shelter near the reindeer fence.

Accommodation: Raentserenmehkie²

Raentserenmehkie - Viermahytta, 28 km

Part of E1 and Grensesømmen. Stretch is not marked.
From the shelter we follow the reindeer fence SW. When the fence turns south we continue straight on into the the valley and up onto the snow slope to the pass near lake 1065. Up here we turn W and go down into Virmadalen such that we end up on the north side of the river and the lakes. This way we follow the valley down and pass the county boundary between Nordland and Trøndelag before we reach the forest. Then we turn rather S to continue following Vierma on the W-side all the way to the mouth at Namsvatnet. Some 300 m further along the lake shore lies Viermahytta before we reach the mouth of Storelva.

Accommodation: Viermahytta (Røyrvik Fjellstyre) (open 01.06 – 09.09., 6 beds)

Viermahytta - Bustadmo, 27,5 km

Part of E1 and Grensesømmen. Stretch is not marked.
From the hut we go back to the mouth of Vierma and over the bridge and pass at the other side of the houses in Norddalsvika. On the inside of the bay there is swamp all the way down to the lake, so we try to go on the inside of the swamps and thus turn SE. Cross Matbekken and hold the same height until we are above the mouth of Orrelva. Approaching the river and crossing it on a bridge ca. 800 m above the mouth of Orrelva. Can now go around height 556 on the N-side or go over it to Storvika and continue along the lakeshore for around 1 km. Here we leave Børgefjell National Park.

When the lakeshore takes a more westerly coarse we go gradually up from the lake and pass the col E of Sultenfiskåsen. We go S of Sultenfisktjerna in a wet and swampy terrain. We also keep to the S-side of Lille Gollomvatnet, and must turn S when we reach Store Gollomvatnet. Follow the lake a bit above the lakeshore, but before and after Rennelelva it's swampy. At the W-end of the lake we reach a forestry road that is followed for 4 km to the main road. This one we follow S and turn right at the first cross that leads to Bustadmo.

An alternative to the walk is to use a boat over Namsvatnet.

Accommodation: Bustadmo ”Base Camp Børgefjell” (private)

The distance from Harvasstua to the boat landing appears to be around 55 km. Please be aware that there are no trails, markings, bridges, or shelters along the E1 within the park boundaries. Expect swamps, bushwhacking, and river fording. Do not attempt this route without prior experience in navigating trailless terrain in the Scandinavian mountain wilderness.


¹Official description starts at a little cabin in Daningen 4.5 km north of the road at Susendalen.

²This is an extremely basic accommodation. You'd be better off sleeping in a tent.

Raentserenmehkie, outside
Raentserenmehkie, outside

Raentserenmehkie, inside
Raentserenmehkie, inside

If you're not camping, then please do yourself a favour and walk the extra 3 km to and from Ranserbu, which is of much better standard, and also open for hikers to use:

Ranserbu
Ranserbu

Page at Norwegian tourist association which used to describe the shelter in Raentserenmehkie as "extremely basic" no longer exists.

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