When comparing dynamic ropes (single ropes) for climbing, which properties do really matter?

I'm thinking about weight per meter and price, maybe diameter for very special belay devices.

I'm going to use the rope indoors, and something like 80/20 for toprope/lead.

  • 1
    What do you want to use the rope for? – Qudit Nov 5 '18 at 22:47
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    @Jasper Though there is another question with almost similar title, I felt that your actual questino is slightly different than that one. If you rephrase the title as to focus even more on how to rank the different properties, I might vote to reopen. – Guran Nov 6 '18 at 8:10

It depends...

What matters depends on what kind of climbing you plan to do.

Length matters if you’re climbing (and/or rappelling) routes longer than 25 meters. In some areas, a 80m rope is essential, in others a 50m will do just fine.

Impact force matters if you climb on marginal protection. (Ice, hard trad, aid)

Diameter matters if you put the rope to heavy use, since a fatter rope takes more wear. Also the diameter must be compatible with your brake. Thinner is easier to feet through a belay device, but might take more practice to belay safely with.

number of UIAA falls matters if you work hard on redpointing. I.e if you fall a lot.

Weight matters if you want to push your grades.

Dry treatment matters on multi-pitch climbing and is vital on ice. Not so important for sport crafting though.

What also matters a lot is how the rope handles. (Though that is not clear from technical specs). Some ropes become twisted and tangled easier than others.

(Edit after additional information in question)

For indoors use, get a short (50m will be enough at almost any gym) durable (ie not too thin, 10-10.2 mm perhaps) rope. Don’t bother with dry treatment, obviously. Indoor training tends to be more intense than outdoor cragging, so a high number of uiaa falls is good, albeit not a deal breaker.

  • I would also add that there is a tradeoff between how easy the rope is to handle and durability. Thick ropes last longer but do not feed through belay devices as easily. Another consideration is that if you are using an assisted braking device, it will be more likely to catch a fall if your belayer is knocked out by a rock and lets go of the rope. Obviously, you shouldn't rely on this since ABD are only assisted and not auto locking, but it's worth considering. – Qudit Nov 5 '18 at 22:46
  • @Qudit Breaking devices seems a bit out of scope, but I'll add some more about handling. – Guran Nov 6 '18 at 8:02
  • Is the number of UIAA falls really a relevant figure? It's (nearly) impossible to "UIAA fall"... – Jasper Nov 6 '18 at 15:28
  • @Jasper True, but it’s an indication as to how many falls you can take in quick secession before it is wise to let the rope rest a while. – Guran Nov 6 '18 at 15:31

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