When learning to sport climb, I was taught not to pass any of my fingers through the gate of the carabiner when clipping into a quickdraw. Lest any of my fingers get stuck and degloved in the case of a fall while clipping. Has this ever happened? Is this a realistic concern?
In an effort to lead climb more efficiently, I was researching different methods of clipping quickdraws. During my search, I found that one often recommendation when clipping with (eg) one's right hand into a quickdraw whose gate is facing right is
Pinch Clip Technique
- Starting from your tie-in knot at your harness, slide your hand down the rope to grab a length of rope.
- As you bring the rope up to the quickdraw, let it run over your pointer finger.
- Use your thumb on the spine of the rope-end carabiner to stabilize the carabiner.
- Push the rope and your pointer finger into and through the gate of the carabiner to clip the rope.
Source: REI, emphasis: mine.
Some sources warn against putting fingers through the gate while using the pinch clip technique:
Quick safety tips when clipping quickdraws
Keep your fingers out of the carabiner
Push the rope into the carabiner gate, rather than your fingers. You don’t want to lose them if the event of a fall!