Are snow shoes useful in mountaineering?

Question

In mountaineering one often encounters snow fields with about knee deep snow that basically needs to be trudged through. This is extremely tiresome, especially at high altitudes. Typically the team members take turns in laying the track (going first so others can follow in their footsteps).

I am only a novice mountaineer, but to me it seems that snowshoes (plus ice axe just in case one needs to self-arrest) can make things an order of magnitude easier in this regard. Since it is deep snow, there is no real need for mountaineering crampons anyway.

But the fact remains that I have never ever seen snowshoes in a mountaineering context. They are not heavy, and to the extent they are, I think they might make traversing wide/deep snow fields easier. Of course they will need to be swapped for crampons in anything other than a deep snow field.

Any ideas on why is this and if snowshoes are a viable idea to try out?

For context, my only mountaineering experience is in the mid-Himalayas, but this question is not specific to that region, but more in preparation for higher altitudes.

Answer 1

Yes, snowshoes can be very useful when mountaineering. The ideal conditions for their use are lots of snow and fairly gentle slopes. The deeper the snow, the greater the advantage snowshoes have over just boots. The steeper the slopes, however, the more difficult and dangerous it becomes using snowshoes -- ascending or descending. Be prepared to take them off and use boots and ice axe.

• mountaineers.org/blog/snowshoeing-in-steep-terrain
• easternslopes.com/2009/02/22/snowshoe-how-to-advanced-lessons
• oplopanax.ca/2010/10/how-to-kill-yourself-snowshoeing

Answer 2

There are certainly use cases for snow shoes. However, I believe this is rather a niche when talking about proper alpinism and not just snow shoe hiking as it is always an addition to the normal equipment, never a replacement for crampons.

If there is a lot of snow (to expect) and the terrain is suitable, most people will skip snow shoes and go directly for skis. They offer a better weight distribution, meaning you will not sink in as deep as with snow shoes. The better weight distribution helps with traversal of snow bridges over crevasses. I personally feel much safer traversing a steeper slope on skis (during the ascent) than on snow shoes. Not to forget that the downhill is much more comfortable on skis.

A good use for snow shoes in the alps are north faces (for example Fletschhorn, Lenzspitze). The typical season for those routes is late May and early to mid June. During this time, there is still a lot of snow on the approach. Snow shoes can be quite handy especially on the approach to the hut which is often done in the afternoon. They can then be left at the hut as the snow will freeze over during the night and crampons will be better suited. Alternatively you can attach them to the backpack (mine weigh about 800g each and fit quite well to the ski mount) and I carry them throughout the route. In this case snow shoes are a lot lighter and less bulky than skis. (While these two north faces are regularly descended on skis, I consider this too dangerous for my level of skiing ;))

Answer 3

Snowshoes are certainly useful in mountaineering and are widely used, at least in North America. Typically they are used on the approach and not so much on technical terrain. Many of the climbers I know own multiple pairs of snowshoes of varying sizes, to handle varying snow conditions.

However, many climbers far prefer skis to snowshoes because of the speed and fun they add to the descent. Ski descents of the large glaciated peaks around the Pacific Northwest are quite popular.

Answer 4

Depending on the route, you'll likely need a way to not sink into snow and give you more grip than boots alone. With ice or hardpack snow boots and crampons are great.

Most folks with the experience would prefer at skis, Telemark skis, or a splitboard: they're substantially more efficient for longer snow travel than snowshoes (nicknamed "slowshoes").

But if you don't know how to ski or split, and/or you don't have a lot of snow to deal with, snowshoes are great.

Walk down the street, ride a bike a few blocks, and drive a car to the next state over. They all work but some are better than others depending on the job.

Answer 5

In alpine conditions generally skis will work better. Below timberline skis work on broad trails. Narrow twisty trail and bushwhacking is easier with snowshoes.

Snowshoes on a steep crusted side hill are double plus ungood.

Note that snow conditions have a strong effect on both. In Eastern Canada snow is often wet and heavy. I have snowshoed there when I would sink only 2-3 inches, and going without snowshoes was mid thigh.

In western Canada's front ranges (eastern ranges of the rockies) snow tends to be very light and fluffy, and the first person on snowshoes would still go in knee deep even on 60 x 13" snowshoes.

On the prairies in Manitoba, snow often comes sideways, and is packed hard by the wind. Snowshoes then become traction devices on a crust strong enough to bear your weight, and smooth enough to land you on your butt several times an hour.

(I was talking with a Cree trapper once. He was all modern with a polaris dual track snowmobile, but he said that his grandfather had a collection of snowshoes for different conditions and jobs. The ones for ice fishing on Lake Winnipeg had no lacing on toe and tail, and only very coarse lacing -- about 5/8" wide on 2.5" spacing on the centres. This was enough to keep traction on the crusts, and on the ice that was swept bare, and also to bridge cracks in the ice.)

If you are using traditional wax skis temperature has a huge effect, particularly temps within a degree or two of freezing. This can get really annoying if the trail is alternately in sun and shade, as finding a wax combination that works acceptably for both conditions may be difficult to impossible. This isn't as big a deal if you are going mainly uphill with skins, then mainly downhill without.

Snowshoeing solo is a lot of work breaking trail. The second person is spending less than half the energy.

Snowshoes leave a trail about 18" wide: perfect for a pulk or other sled.

Both can be worth wearing even in a few inches of snow, just for their terrain averaging. 8" of snow hides a lot of small logs, rocks, gopher mounds, and trail ruts. A snowshoe or ski bridges enough of these, that your foot strike is more uniform, and you aren't as sore at the end of the day. even those short 24" aluminum and neoprene are effective for this.

There is a lot of variation in both kinds of equipment. Snowshoes range from cheap plastic, metal tube and synthetic lacing, traditional wood frame and rawhide lacing. Sizes range from 18" to 6 feet, with widths from 10 inches to 14 inches. Snowshoes can either have tails (track better, tips don't get caught under the crust as often) or round ends (easier in bush.

Skis can be very narrow (~50 mm -- fast on broken trail) or wider (~100 mm -- more common on back country) There are skis that attempt the compromise between snowshoe and skii being about 8" wide by 5 feet long. The width makes them hard to edge, but combined with short length makes them more usable in heavy brush.

Overall: Conditions favouring skis:

• Open terrain
• Steep slopes
• Side hills greater than 10%
• Windpacked or crusted snow.
• No brush.
• Experienced personnel.

Conditions favouring snowshoes:

• Deep soft snow
• Irregular terrain
• Lots of brush or trees.
• Newbies. (It takes about 10 minutes to learn how to use snowshoes)