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I will be heading to Font and am beginning to plan specific areas to head to.

I'm bouldering up to 6b but have heard the grades are stiffer over there (compared to the UK) - if there is a difference, what grade would be the equivalent?

Also, for that grade, what would be the best locations and guidebooks?

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  • 1
    what's a Font ?
    – njzk2
    May 4 at 20:13
  • 2
    I'm presuming Fontainebleu - they have lots of bouldering 'routes' in the forests. For climbing and bouldering, there are definitely local variations in grading. Some of that comes down to things like the specific rock making some things easier or harder. Generally, you need to try some grades and see how they stack up. As for guides, my experience is more than a little dated (30 years ago), so no help there.
    – Jon Custer
    May 4 at 20:17
  • I know Fontainebleau. Although I would never consider abbreviating it (neither Font or Bleau). Font, is that how people call it in the UK?
    – njzk2
    May 5 at 19:34
  • @njzk2 climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/… "Fontainebleau, also known as Font or Bleau, [...]". Where I'm from (SW Germany) no one says Fontaineblau it's always just Bleau.
    – Max
    May 6 at 8:16

1 Answer 1

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Have fun in bleau, if it's your first time, be prepared to take a beating ;) Thats perfectly normal.

I don't know how the ratings are in the UK but our general rule of thumb was: Take your usual rating, subtract 1 and thats the bleau rating. Of course, this might be a little exaggerated, but going down half to 2/3 of grade seems fairly reasonable (compared to something "universal" like Moonboard ratings). (Of course ratings as always are highly subjective).

As for locations, just pick any. There are so many boulders in the area that you will always find something for you grade and liking and if not, the next area is just a 10 min walk away. I've always been partial to the Trois Pignon area especially the 95.2 area. The "best" area realy depends on your style and preferences.

As for guides, the german "Bleau en Bloc" is pretty good but I don't know if there is a translation available. bleau.info is a nice list of allmost all problems in all regions.

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