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What are the recommended carabiners for different belay devices in order to ensure correct operation (i.e. reduce the risk of cross loading, ensure the braking mechanism engages etc)?

Some people have noted for example that the Edelrid Bulletproof carabiner can impair the locking feature of the Giga Jul, and that the GriGri is susceptible to crossloading using HMS carabiners.

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  • Note that not all the issues are equal. If the device does not lock, it is potentially fatal. On the other hand, while cross loading reduces the breaking strength of the carabiner, the forces generated are a lot lower (1-2kN vs 7kN) and does not pose an additional risk in practice. At least as long as the device can still function correctly on a cross-loaded carabiner.
    – Manziel
    Commented Oct 26, 2023 at 8:57
  • BTW, I use a DMM Belay Master with my grigris. Works fine and is a good combination for novice climbers.
    – Darren
    Commented Nov 25, 2023 at 12:35

1 Answer 1

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The manufacturers give these recommendations:

Device Technical info diagram text
enter image description herePetzl GriGri enter image description here Why this choice?

The D shape helps resist carabiner rotation.

There is only one device to attach, so a wide opening and high capacity are not necessary.

TWIST-LOCK auto-locking helps reduce the risk of forgetting to lock the carabiner, while maintaining a good speed of use. It can be used in this case, because the rope does not run through the carabiner (which could rub against the locking sleeve).

BALL-LOCK auto-locking helps reduce the risk of forgetting to lock the carabiner, and offers the security of triple action locking.

The shape of the FREINO helps resist rotation and bad positioning. It also offers an extra-friction solution for controlling the descent of a heavy user.

...

Notes

Beware of pear-shaped carabiners, which in this application have a tendency to rotate and often become poorly positioned.
enter image description hereEdelrid Giga Jul Diagram 3 Compatibility
3 We recommend using an HMS Strike FG or HMS Strike Slider FG karabiner. [When] selecting an atternative karabiner type, be sure an HMS automatic gate karabiner (pear shaped), if possible with turning preventer, is used and that the securing device is attached on the wide end of the karabiner. A small or pointed karabiner attached to the securing device may impair the brake function.
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  • Can you elaborate on the bottom square on the Jul? What is "Usage 4 - 12"?
    – Guran
    Commented Oct 26, 2023 at 8:14
  • @Guran, The Giga Jul image confuses me too. The top-left square indicates it's OK to use a crab with a wire "turn preventer" (I don't know what they're actuallly called, but that's what the text calls it) but the third crab in the bottom square says "No". For the record, I own a Giga Jul and use a standard Mammut HMS with twist lock gate, it works fine.
    – Darren
    Commented Oct 26, 2023 at 9:42
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    It probably means that huge turn preventers are not allowed because they can prevent the device from locking. I remember that some of the initial MegaJul were delivered with a carabiner that had a turn preventer that was too big and they had to rework this to a small turn preventer. However, the manual does not mention this explicitly, so we can only guess. If anyone wants to join guessing, here is the manual avs.edelrid.com/images/attribut/5XXXX_GAL_GIGAJUL_ANSICHT.pdf
    – Manziel
    Commented Oct 26, 2023 at 10:10
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    The top left image with the spring bar ("wire preventer") is locking, the bottom right one is not. It is saying that the spring bar is not sufficient safety, and the carabiner must also be locking. It is OK to use a locking carabiner with spring bar
    – noah
    Commented Oct 26, 2023 at 19:23
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    Maybe that is the meaning, but for safety related gear they should be a lot more explicit on the topic. Even worse, the carabiner on the bottom right has a lot of similarity with the recommended HMS Strike Slider FG. The only visible difference is the size of the turn preventer
    – Manziel
    Commented Oct 27, 2023 at 8:36

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